Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-16-2004, 01:51 PM   #57
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Breathing and water tanks...

I guess it is only important for the belly area to breathe if it is possible for moisture to get in there. I would be sorely tempted to fill the whole area with solid foam but that would still not solve the problem of some moisture getting into the floor from above. It would also be a bit expensive. I think what I will be doing will be to ventilate the area and use foil insulation that can not trap any water in it.

Relative to the fresh water tank - is it removable from the top if I end up replacing the floor plywood above it? What holds the angle iron frame in place? It might be nice to come up with some way to hinge the whole framework at one edge or something. Has anyone done something like that?

Does anyone know if the fresh water filler fitting is special to AS or generic? I have to replace mine since part of it is broken.

Last night I removed my black water tank and toilet as one of the last items to clear the floor for full access from above. I noticed that my grey water tank (probably added by a PO) control valve appears to be stuck. Are there ways to free these things up or am I going to have to replace it? It actually looks pretty new (because it is pretty clean).

I also removed the second inner wheel cover which is somewhat cracked and seems pretty fragile. Are these inner covers (mine is some sort of plastic) repairable? Are replacements available? Do they need to be flexible or could they be replaced with something stiffer? Anyone have any suggestions?

It looks like the wheel well cover (closest to the wheels) is attached under the floor plywood. They do seem to be in pretty good shape. If I do have to remove one is there a way to get it out without removing the floor?

Malcolm
__________________

__________________
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2004, 02:52 PM   #58
Patriotic
 
Chuck's Avatar

 
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston , Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,533
Images: 260
Only thing I can answer is the water tank: the supports are welded on 3 sides. the forward z-angle is screwed in place. to remove the tank, unscrew that forward support, slide the plywood "floor" out, and the tank should drop right out. (disconnect everything from up top, first, of course). the manual says this'll be a 2-man/4hand project.

The factory didn't install grey tanks in 73, so that is a retrofit. (where is it located, btw? curious...). would WD40 loosen the valve at all?
__________________

__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
Chuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2004, 03:06 PM   #59
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Grey water tank location...

From what I understand the grey water tank might have been available as a factory option later in the year. Mine definitely was an after market though - bad fit, poor way of mounting it etc. My unit is a center bath 31'. The 1973 service manaul actually indicated a possible location for the grey water tank and that is where mine is located. It is in a space between cross-bars one notch behind where the black water outlet is located. The BW outlet is under the left, rear corner of the BW tank (which actually is in the bedroom).

Will WD40 cause any damage to plastic parts? I wonder if I put some water in the grey water tank - it is dry now so that could account for the sticking valuve I suppose. I will have to experiment some.

Malcolm
__________________
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2004, 04:28 PM   #60
Patriotic
 
Chuck's Avatar

 
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston , Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,533
Images: 260
I didn't see any mention of a grey water tank in my 73 service manual, even for the 31 footers. If you have a manual, it shows how to remove the fresh water tank.

I don't think WD will hurt anything. can't make it any worse than it is now, right?
__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
Chuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2004, 05:42 PM   #61
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Waste water tank...

I took a closer look at the manual page I was thinking of. It is page 2 where it shows the chassis of the tandem axle 23ft to 31ft. Item #32 is shown to be a waste tank in about the same location as where my grey water tank was installed. I mis-remembered this thinking that it was showing an optional grey water tank location. Instead it is evidently showing the black water tank location for some of the models. I wish the service manual was more specific to my model sometimes.

Sorry about the confusion on my part...

By the way I noted on that same page and on page 6 that the water tank would not be removable from above without cutting out the frame cross-member that goes down the middle of the tank. I am going to have to get a look at that member to see what kind of shape it is in. The floor is a tad springy in about that area.

Malcolm
__________________
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2004, 09:49 AM   #62
Patriotic
 
Chuck's Avatar

 
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston , Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,533
Images: 260
oh, yeah...forgot about that cross member there. I wouldn't think that would be a typical problem area, though...where would the water come from? and if the tank or its fittings leaked, gravity working as it does, would keep water away from that part of the frame. Andy has a replacement tank pictured on his website, in the parts section, and you can see how its custom molded to fit around this x-member.
__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
Chuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2004, 10:18 PM   #63
2 Rivet Member
 
mbatm01's Avatar
 
1963 22' Safari
Broomfield , Colorado
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 48
Images: 19
Shell off update

I have successfully taken off the shell. It was tricky on the sloped driveway, but I took my time, and it went well. I am really glad I did go the shell off route, the criteria for taking the shell off were as follows:

1 - The belly pan was completely corroded and needed to be replaced.
2 - The frame was seriously rusted and needed a lot of work - regarding the frame, wire wheeling it in prep for paint and the new floor has revealed lots of little issues like split welds, some very bad pitting etc, and for this reason I am glad the shell is off so I can fix it right.
3 - Most of the floor channel needs to be replaced since the bolts tore through it after the PO ripped the original floor

Lessons learned:

Amazing how much load is on the walls - luckily, I am not an engineer, but the skin/wall/floor/frame combo completes the monocoque structure - with one of those being bad (in my case the frame and floor) there is a lot of weakness.

I spent a lot of time cribbing for lifting, safety and to retain shape - money and time well spent, especially with the sloped driveway.

Two guys can lift the back end of a 22' safari shell, I wouldn't do it as a hobby, but we needed to do it in a pinch and it wasn't bad.

If my belly pan had been salvageable, I would have done Leonards shell on technique. Since my floor was gone I cut the pan off (next item), jacked the shell up 1" and slid in underlayment, then dropped the shell backdown and traced the floorchannel. I did this after the cribbing was in place to maintain as much shape as possible.

I started to drill out the base perimiter rivets to begin the process of removing the bellypan and floor channel to get the shell off. I found that the bellypan had been wrapped/folded over the floor channel, so I would not have been able to slide the pan out by itself, but would have had to take the floor channel out with it. Not a big deal since I am doing a shell off, but originally I thought I could just slide the bellypan down once I had removed the rivets. So, to save time, I cut the bellypan right below the floor channel and got on with the lifting of the shell. Now I will go back and drill out the rivets and remove the floor channel and remaining lip of bellypan.

I am not looking forward to putting the shell back on - when I was installing the cribbing, I pulled in the walls to make them straight - remember the floor was gone, and the bolts had wobbled in the floor channel and the walls had moved out, so I wanted to get it back as close to in line as possible. Using Leonards strap and clamp technique (worked great) I got the walls in line and screwed in the cribbing. I still see that the outside shell line is not straight, I am hoping that with the new floor and channel on that they will help in this matter.

Wire wheeling the frame sucks. I am looking to get some sandblasting done, otherwise I will spend the summer on the frame only.

Thats about it for now. Check out my pictures for updates on the progress.

PS. One of the biggest lessons learned was how much great info and great people there are on this forum. Thanks for the help and encouragement. Also, Big thanks to Andy at Inland, lots of great advice and help on the axle.

Kevin
__________________
mbatm01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2004, 12:43 AM   #64
3 Rivet Member
 
upallnight's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 163
Images: 15
Kevin

Check with www.harborfreight.com for portable sandblaster, I picked mine up on sale for $29.95, bought the sand at Home Depot. Great work. Nice Pictures.
__________________
Leonard

LotalaborAZ
upallnight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2004, 01:00 AM   #65
3 Rivet Member
 
upallnight's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 163
Images: 15
Kevin

This is the one I bought. It is a throw away, but it gets the job done.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=30979
__________________
Leonard

LotalaborAZ
upallnight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2004, 04:14 AM   #66
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,767
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
Leonard,
Did you use regular sand? How well did it work?
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2004, 09:29 AM   #67
3 Rivet Member
 
upallnight's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 163
Images: 15
Yes it was regular bagged sand from Home Depot, when I get home tonight I'll post the brand name, can't remember it right now. It went a little slow on the heavy stuff but it worked great. Just make sure you have a compressor big enough to handle it.
__________________
Leonard

LotalaborAZ
upallnight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2004, 09:56 AM   #68
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,940
Images: 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight
Yes it was regular bagged sand from Home Depot, when I get home tonight I'll post the brand name, can't remember it right now. It went a little slow on the heavy stuff but it worked great. Just make sure you have a compressor big enough to handle it.
I've used Quikrete Commercial grade fine sand (1961-52) from home depot. It was very dry, free-flowing, worked great. Not the cheapest, but I spread a tarp under the frame and was able to screen and reuse 90%.
I also tried "Black Diamond" from Northern Tool. Also works great.
__________________
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2004, 10:07 AM   #69
Rivet Master
 
AYRSTRM2's Avatar
 
1966 22' Safari
Armada , Michigan
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 939
Images: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight
Yes it was regular bagged sand from Home Depot, when I get home tonight I'll post the brand name, can't remember it right now. It went a little slow on the heavy stuff but it worked great. Just make sure you have a compressor big enough to handle it.
How big of a compressor? What size, capacity did you use? Did this sandblaster really work that well? If so I'm getting one tomorrow!

John
__________________
AYRSTRM2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2004, 10:14 AM   #70
3 Rivet Member
 
upallnight's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 163
Images: 15
I will have to go home and get the specs. on the compressor. And it did work great as opposed to paying to have someone do it locally. The compressor I used was a small garage type compressor, just big enough to handle the pressure cleaner.
__________________

__________________
Leonard

LotalaborAZ
upallnight is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
HELP! Don't Make Me Pull The Shell Off! funchucky1 Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 32 04-25-2004 03:44 PM
Opinons wanted on truck shell or cover? Safari Tim Our Community 20 07-15-2003 05:46 AM
Water Heater shell frame BobbyW Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 0 04-29-2002 11:21 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:03 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.