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Old 03-28-2009, 07:20 PM   #1
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Shell off transmogrification

Having read, numerous times, many of the excellent threads telling the frame up rebuild story I wanted to start one for my project. Given that I'm always asking, somewhat bizarre, questions at least this should help keep me in one place. I've had this gutted '61 for a nearly a year now and feel I've got a decent plan.

I had the running gear replaced before I picked her up and recently I stripped all the interior aluminum, wiring and insulation out. The vents were mostly long gone and I ditched the swamp cooler. As it stands right now she's up on jacks all leveled out with some, (maybe a little on the overkill side) bracing holding the shell in place.

In general the job will start with replacing the floor and every panel except the curved ends and maybe one or two flat sheets but we'll see how that goes. I've kept every sheet that came out for either reuse or as a template. I'll be substantially changing the interior layout and all appliances too. I'm very keen on the Vacuflush system, Precisiontemp showermate, Isotherm cruise 200 refrigerator and a few other nifty gadgets but I'll adjust as I go along.

The next stage for me is to lift the shell and get a look at the frame. I want to do this before final tank selection. I'm hoping the frame is more or less OK as the floor wasn't particularly bad at all. So after any work on the frame it's off for sandblasting, then POR15 and a sealed exterior ply floor. I'm hoping to secure the (new) exterior sections of the belly pan leaving the core area open for now, then reattach the shell. We'll see how it all goes...

So here's the current idea.

And here's the progress to date.
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Old 03-28-2009, 07:37 PM   #2
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truckasaurus, looks like you know what you are doing. I'm sure
you will have a real beauty when it's complete. Keep the progress and
pics coming, Great Job!!
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Old 03-28-2009, 10:31 PM   #3
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Hey Truck,
Looks like a winner to me!
I like the floor plan.

Looking forward to your progress.

Michael
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Old 03-28-2009, 10:35 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truckasaurus View Post
Having read, numerous times, many of the excellent threads telling the frame up rebuild story I wanted to start one for my project. Given that I'm always asking, somewhat bizarre, questions at least this should help keep me in one place. I've had this gutted '61 for a nearly a year now and feel I've got a decent plan.

I had the running gear replaced before I picked her up and recently I stripped all the interior aluminum, wiring and insulation out. The vents were mostly long gone and I ditched the swamp cooler. As it stands right now she's up on jacks all leveled out with some, (maybe a little on the overkill side) bracing holding the shell in place.

In general the job will start with replacing the floor and every panel except the curved ends and maybe one or two flat sheets but we'll see how that goes. I've kept every sheet that came out for either reuse or as a template. I'll be substantially changing the interior layout and all appliances too. I'm very keen on the Vacuflush system, Precisiontemp showermate, Isotherm cruise 200 refrigerator and a few other nifty gadgets but I'll adjust as I go along.

The next stage for me is to lift the shell and get a look at the frame. I want to do this before final tank selection. I'm hoping the frame is more or less OK as the floor wasn't particularly bad at all. So after any work on the frame it's off for sandblasting, then POR15 and a sealed exterior ply floor. I'm hoping to secure the (new) exterior sections of the belly pan leaving the core area open for now, then reattach the shell. We'll see how it all goes...

So here's the current idea.

And here's the progress to date.
Suggestion before you go to far.

Try to calculate the front to back weight and balance.

In looking at your proposed design, you may be creating a side to side, large weight unbalance.

Andy
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Old 03-29-2009, 07:49 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
Suggestion before you go to far.

Try to calculate the front to back weight and balance.

In looking at your proposed design, you may be creating a side to side, large weight unbalance.

Andy
Andy, great point, I'm going through a full restoration on a 1955 Safari, I will balance the interior side to side.........thanks.........toastie
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Old 03-29-2009, 09:35 AM   #6
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Balancing weight distribution in the layout is a great point, I've tried to factor in most items but it's trickier than I had thought. Given that it's a key factor in the success of a redesign I was a little surprised not to find more talk on the topic.

To simplify it somewhat the proposed layout has most of the weight central and low down, no tall refrigerator, no roof mounted AC, and at this stage no range or microwave just a cooktop (I figure this reduces the need for a z axis in the balancing act). I've detailed the weight of fridge, cooktop, head, water heater, and hope to balance around these items using the water pump and vacuflush system, batteries, converter, etc. The fridge bothers me the most so maybe I should have a cabinet directly opposite it housing a floor mounted AC and a draw topped off with a convection microwave?

Nearly everything "non cabinetry, bed etc" so far is very, very close to the axles but I haven't estimated the cabinets, bed or dinette yet. I did cobble together a tongue scale though and gutted I had a weight of 225 lbs. So if I can address any side to side issues and then just add propane, batteries and relatively easy to distribute items I hope to get to the 10% -15% tongue weight again.

I think I'll head the warning though and whip up a spreadsheet. I'll use the item weight and distance from the centre line for the side to side balance and then a second sheet with distance from the mid point between the two axles. Any ideas are most welcome right now.
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Old 03-29-2009, 09:35 AM   #7
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Andy, great point, I'm going through a full restoration on a 1955 Safari, I will balance the interior side to side.........thanks.........toastie
An exact balance is not necessary.

Something less than 10 percent difference of the overall weight is usually ok.

One of the ways to help the balancing, is to install the water tank on the light side of the trailer. Have it full when traveling, which they all should be anyways, and when the trailer is parked, who cares. Just enjoy.

A tongue weight of closer to 15 percent or sometimes even more, should be the goal, so that you wind up with ball park 600 pounds. That will help the proper utilization of the load equalizing hitch.

Andy
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Old 03-29-2009, 04:12 PM   #8
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Quick question but do 30 lb propane bottles weigh in at 30 lbs or just hold that weight of liquid?
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Old 03-30-2009, 12:12 AM   #9
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Quick question but do 30 lb propane bottles weigh in at 30 lbs or just hold that weight of liquid?
LPG bottle ratings are for the amount of LPG that they can contain.

Ball park, LPG weighs 4 pounds per gallon. A 30 pound tank then holds 7 1/2 gallons of LPG.

How much the empty tank weighs depends on the metal, steel or aluminum.

Andy
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Old 03-30-2009, 01:09 PM   #10
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I'm doing a very similar floor plan for our '67 Overlander. I want to turn the bed 90 degree to allow "user access" from side. We're doing a sofa in front rather than a dinette in front. My rough thought is that we're balancing the galley on one side versus the bath on the other. Rather than the bathroom door facing the galley, I'm leaning towards it facing the bed. Otherwise, it's pretty similar.
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Old 03-30-2009, 09:32 PM   #11
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Hi Hampstead, do you have any sketches or plans?
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Old 04-12-2009, 09:59 AM   #12
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Flintsone Airstream

Really not great photos taken with my macbook camera but I had a day this week and couldn't resist getting the top off. (the images are mirrored, as I used photo-booth as the application)(new camera ordered though).

I used a trolley jack and some 2x6 off-cuts. The bracing worked out well so far in that it actually rocked on the sawhorses rather than conform to the uneven ground. I need a little bracing just to stop any movement in the lower end sections that might fatigue the metal. The internal bracing is screwed down to the beams and in turn to the saw horses. It was a bit nerve wracking but apart from the fasteners holding the ribs to the C-channel and the vice like grip of the Vulkem stuff is went as expected.

I'm hoping to strip the chassis of floor and belly pan/ fiberglass today, I'm keen to see what the steel is like and if the plan I have for tanks is viable.
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:25 AM   #13
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Have it full when traveling, which they all should be anyways,
Sorry to go off-topic, but I'm curious about something.

Andy,

I've seen you mention this in a few posts, just wondering why you feel it's important to travel fully-laden with water.
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:35 AM   #14
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Sorry to go off-topic, but I'm curious about something.

Andy,

I've seen you mention this in a few posts, just wondering why you feel it's important to travel fully-laden with water.
Several reasons for traveling with "full water."

1. Lets your bathroom be operational when your on the road.

2. Lowers the center of gravity of the trailer.

3. Should you have a radiator or heater hose blow, "guess" where you can get the water, totally independent of others.

4. Contrary to some opinions, the full water does very little harm to fuel mileage. Maybe 1 or 2 percent. Or, another way to say it, if carrying the water reduces your mileage to point that you cannot afford to go, then maybe the trip should not have started in the first place.

Andy
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