Visit our Popular Forums

truckasaurus · 06-04-2009, 06:34 PM

All great points, luckily I have the umbilical and breakaway lines installed in the conduit. (I've run into the fishing nightmare before when installing my home theater!).

The bolts are total overkill, 4" OC on the straights like original but the curves do have many more mostly due to the notching procedure required to get the channel to curve smoothly. If I do this again (I like the Ambassador of the same year) I'd keep most of the bolts but I'd try machine screws on the curves for the weight saving.

Frank's Trailer Works · 06-05-2009, 04:42 AM

On my 62 the channel was screwed down using flat head screws and only every other segment on the curved part. As I recall, the channel only had bolts through it where it crossed over frame at the out riggers and a few other locations. It was no where near 4" on center. I re worked it exactly the same way except used hex head screws for better drive and a rubber washer to counter act the dissimilar metals.
I apologize for my criticism of your work. I just see it often that people try and re engineer these trailers and improve on something that was fairly proven by the time our era of trailers came along. A restoration is an attempt to return it to it's original condition.
You keep rolling, I am enjoying watching what you do.

utee94 · 06-05-2009, 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 62overlander

the channel only had bolts through it where it crossed over frame at the out riggers and a few other locations. .

In the curved sections, the only place mine had bolts was right under each vertical rib-- the ones that are in two pieces, where the bottom "leg" of the rib is riveted on and has an angled gap at the bottom (presumably, to make a space for the bolt to be placed).

But, even 180 bolts nuts and washers probably don't add significant weight, and I think it looks really cool. Though of course, you won't see it with the bellypan on. That's a pity.

-Marcus

truckasaurus · 06-05-2009, 06:15 AM

Hey Frank no apology is needed. Especially so on a project where without good advice and constructive feedback many horrible things could become apparent just a few years or miles down the road.
Being somewhat addicted to this forum I read over and over about projects where unsuitable materials are used or are installed in a manner that will compound the effects of time, moisture and motion. I'm trying for a balance of my Airstreams 48 years of demonstrable build know-how coupled with improvements from contemporary materials and a little extra devotion. Feel free to wave flags when I start laminating up sheets of 3/4" MDF for the cabinets! (just kidding).

nmbosa · 06-05-2009, 08:20 AM

What's wrong with the 3/4" sheets of MDF?

Seriously though, your work looks great. It can be tough to strike that balance between making helpful improvements and not screwing up a good original design. I'm equally addicted to these forums and spend tons of time trying to sort out the good improvements from the overkill or bad improvements.

Norm

hampstead38 · 06-05-2009, 09:34 AM

C'mon, Truck... given the work you've put in thus far, I thought you'd have titanium fasteners going in. Seriously, you are an inspiration. I can't wait to get our tin girl back and start embarrassing myself. Keep up the good work.

truckasaurus · 06-05-2009, 10:54 AM

If only I'd thought of titanium fasteners!

Well it's cold and raining so I'm taking a break but I did get the belly pan washed down and beaten flat . Suffice to say it'll be going to the recyclers as soon as I've used it to cut the new sheets.

I'm hoping this plan works, I've got .040" for the flat sections front mid and rear, and '025" for the corners and mid sections that curve up to the shell. I'm using '040" for two reasons, 1 being that it's available off a roll so the 8' x 5' sizes pose no challenge and 2 because it should stay flat and smooth even with me man handling it. The shots show a before, my .025" cut list, rough cutting of the original to my new layout (plus ships cat Bob) and a little insulation work.

All though it seems a year or so away the tanks and heat pads will be encased in insulation all within the steel shell you currently see, so no belly pan around them.

**Kevin245** · 06-05-2009, 11:05 AM

Truck,

Are the corner belly wraps mitered, or formed?

Kev

truckasaurus · 06-05-2009, 11:15 AM

The outside edges of the sheet appear cut to a curved shape then slits about 2 1/2" or maybe 3" deep are made in as relief cuts. From there I gather each "tab" is carefully bent up keeping a radius. Each tab will slightly overlap the next; in theory.

I think I'll make an exact copy, still flat but with the slits, then I'll bend up the tabs a little and go from there, I expect I'll be messing up and going to get another sheet or two but we'll see.

Frank's Trailer Works · 06-05-2009, 11:23 AM

Those tabs are almost 90 degrees to the sheet. They over lap one to the next from front to back. You want to massage it slowly into place, for it will curve in two opposite directions as you get further to the rear. The big curved slit at where the curve starts is very important and you need to copy it very carefully. The forward edge should cover the rear edge. Having no shell to fight it into place is going to make your job much easier.

76sovereign · 06-05-2009, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

I ended up with 3/4" flexible conduit. It's quite tricky to bend but it went in and I have it clamped up while the epoxy sets up.

If I need power for a tongue jack it can either come from the breakaway line (like a new Airstream) or I can fish a new 12G through the conduit, maybe.

I installed some sub floor insulation but need to cut and install more tomorrow. (styrofoam SM type stuff)

As it stands I still need holes to drop the hydraulic brake line through the floor and one for propane to enter the coach and hopefully just a 1 1/2" hole for the black tank outflow to join up with the grey tank valve. All of these will be made much later on when the layout is firmed up.

Lastly a Jules Verne style shot of the unnecessarily heavy duty bolts around the perimeter. I used galvanized washers which seal with a squishy rubber layer and serrated flange nuts and the odd dab of epoxy. (about 180 or so)

Very nice work my friend

Zeppelinium · 06-05-2009, 04:07 PM

Quote:

...I installed some sub floor insulation but need to cut and install more tomorrow. (styrofoam SM type stuff)...

How are you attaching the styrofoam to the flooring?

Zep

3Ms75Argosy · 06-05-2009, 05:12 PM

You might want to shave or taper the edges of the foam a bit to get the bellypan to wrap well. Great work!
Marc

truckasaurus · 06-06-2009, 09:00 AM

I used PL200 construction adhesive. The 200 is rated for this task, bonding wood and foam board. I cut the styrofoam as tight as possible to the aperture but not riding over the outriggers. Then I applied the PL in a bead around the edge but still on the upper face. They hold themselves up while setting.

I couldn't find a material or technique that I was completely happy with so decided on this mid point solution. Essentially I'm insulating small patches of the floor and not the complete area. I didn't want to creature moisture traps around the steel. I am toying with the idea of maybe bonding some Reflectix or similar to the back of the BP in some areas.

I have to decide whether to install the perimeter belly first and then the central sections or the other way around. If I do the central pieces last it will be easier to drop them if needed but it will be more likely to get water etc driven in along the seams.

Decisions, decisions. Unfortunately it's snowing this morning and 1 degree so no progress.

utee94 · 06-06-2009, 09:06 AM

Snowing? Really??? It might hit 100 here today. Man, you Canadians are crazy people!

I'd install the perimeter first and center sections later, for the reason you described. Water is going to get in there anyway, so just make sure you leave ways for it to exit.

truckasaurus · 06-06-2009, 09:38 AM

Real snow! granted not much but some areas here were on a heavy snowfall warning last night. It certainly keeps my mind on the project knowing that June through September is the only relatively comfortable time slot for detail work outside.

One of my favorite elements of this vintage is the way the belly pan swoops from the belt line down and back up again. I'm really hoping I get it right.

Frank's Trailer Works · 06-06-2009, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

One of my favorite elements of this vintage is the way the belly pan swoops from the belt line down and back up again. I'm really hoping I get it right.

You will get it no problem. You have a very good template to work from. Just copy it and you will be set.

nmbosa · 06-06-2009, 02:36 PM

Truck, I was wondering why you chose to install the C-channel and belly pan before flooring. Was that simply because your floor will be exposed to the elements for a while or some other consideration?

By the way, it's about 60-65 and overcast here. Perfect polishing weather, but I'm stuck on yard work today.

Norm

truckasaurus · 06-06-2009, 06:20 PM

Norm, a few reasons really.
1 - The weather is crazy so I wouldn't want exposed flooring until it's sealed up.
2 - I'm undecided on the flooring material. (cork or recycled leather, I'm not sure)
3 - I would like to be able to switch out the flooring material if I feel like it in a few years and running it under cabinets etc makes this harder.
4 - Extra material under the C channel would worry me if it was squishy like cork.
5 - I'm cheap and didn't want to spend the $$$'s yet.
6 - There's some messy work still to come, especially fabricating the bathroom.

I do like the idea of installing a nice big sheet of vinyl or marmoleum it looks so clean and finished and it would certainly be easier that what I have in mind but maybe next time.

I'm driving down to Seattle next month and I hope the weather stays fine. When I drove through the Cascades last year in April I hit a snow storm and could only get up to 25 mph, I drove just over 1000 miles that day in total, it was not something to repeat.

Inland RV Center, In · 06-06-2009, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

I do like the idea of installing a nice big sheet of vinyl or marmoleum it looks so clean and finished and it would certainly be easier that what I have in mind but maybe next time.

Truck.

Vinyl sheet floor covering, is not a good idea.

In time, it will crack at every seam the plywood floor has, for most part being 4 feet.

Square tile is the best answer, since you can seam it at the floor seams.

Or, of course, carpeting.

Andy