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truckasaurus · 05-28-2009, 07:55 AM

I found another steel bracket that was still attached to the scrap C channel I took off so now I have 4 large two hole steel angle brackets and 2 one hole brackets.

I think the one hole brackets go either side of the door entry and the other four go at the front and rear bows.

I can't be 100% certain that I could locate them perfectly now and then install the belly skin and just lower the shell down. IIRC they were right next to the bows so if I get it wrong the shell won't locate correctly. So I'm going to epoxy the bolt in place and put the brackets back once the shell is down and then add the nut to secure.

The last slight snag is that I tried out my new Magnum 30" metal brake and it can't form .040" at all so I need to pick up a sheet of 025" for the C channel.

The floor has come out quite nicely, I used about 120 elevator bolts. I skipped the floorboard self tapping bolts as my steel is less than an 1/8" think so there wouldn't be enough bite. This morning I'll get some bolt head and joint filling done and take a photo.

truckasaurus · 05-28-2009, 11:47 AM

I've applied the first patch coat of epoxy to the top of the deck around the bolts and seems so I thought I'd take some pictures to show progress.

The wheel tubs are just painted white with a galvanized metal base coat and the sketchy piece of wood down each side is to keep them straight temporarily.

Also a shot of the right angle brackets I was babbling about. (They are "Metal Readied" but will be POR's before installation).

utee94 · 05-28-2009, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

I can't be 100% certain that I could locate them perfectly now and then install the belly skin and just lower the shell down. IIRC they were right next to the bows so if I get it wrong the shell won't locate correctly. So I'm going to epoxy the bolt in place and put the brackets back once the shell is down and then add the nut to secure.

Yes, absolutely, this is a good plan.

And the work on the floor looks fantastic. I even like the "sketchy piece of wood."

-Marcus

dieseleagle · 05-29-2009, 05:41 AM

The smaller brackets are from either side of the main door frame and they are very necessary. Prior to removing the shell I screwed wood strapping across the opening to keep the separation distance fixed. I installed said brackets after the shell was repositioned in the deck and only then removed the wood strap.

I have to admit that after the shell was back on I too ended up with a pair of the larger angles that were "extra". I think they they were from around the location of the OEM monster water heater. Maybe someone else can weigh in.

utee94 · 05-29-2009, 06:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseleagle

The smaller brackets are from either side of the main door frame and they are very necessary. Prior to removing the shell I screwed wood strapping across the opening to keep the separation distance fixed. I installed said brackets after the shell was repositioned in the deck and only then removed the wood strap.

I have to admit that after the shell was back on I too ended up with a pair of the larger angles that were "extra". I think they they were from around the location of the OEM monster water heater. Maybe someone else can weigh in.

On my 63, those larger angles sit right next to the bow on both SS and CS. The channel stops short and leaves room for them. Like the channel, they bolt through the floor, and then the exterior skin and bellypan rivet into them. I've only taken the back half of mine apart, and found two, but I have assumed there are a matching pair that sit adjacent to the front bow.

n2batr · 05-29-2009, 06:38 AM

Hey truck, I found on my 58 I could get c channel from Mcmaster -carr. What they have available if I remember is ~.063 thickness. it is the correct 1.5" wide but has only 3/4" height, but that was the original height in my 58. Just a thought. Its a lot more solid and strong than .025 would be and is not horribly exspensive. Great job thus far. I'm following with interest. Ed

truckasaurus · 06-02-2009, 09:41 PM

I got the final coat down tonight. It took a little puzzling but I think I've got the steel bow bracket holes all figured out. I've wet set the bolts and will install the brackets with the shell.

It felt a little barbaric but I went ahead and bent the elevator bolts to prevent anything loosening up over time. Those that were to short to bend were treated to a dab of epoxy in the threads.

So here's shots of the progress, grey frame with aluminum impregnated East system epoxy.

Tomorrow is insulation instal day and then I'll be forming some C channel. I picked up 4 sheets of '025" 3003 for $39 a sheet in Calgary on Friday. (only half a sheet is for the channel! the rest will be compound curve corners, hopefully).

Any tips on suitable fasteners and spacing for attaching the C channel?

Aage · 06-02-2009, 09:47 PM

Looks real good.

utee94 · 06-03-2009, 06:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

I got the final coat down tonight. It took a little puzzling but I think I've got the steel bow bracket holes all figured out. I've wet set the bolts and will install the brackets with the shell.

It felt a little barbaric but I went ahead and bent the elevator bolts to prevent anything loosening up over time. Those that were to short to bend were treated to a dab of epoxy in the threads.

So here's shots of the progress, grey frame with aluminum impregnated East system epoxy.

Tomorrow is insulation instal day and then I'll be forming some C channel. I picked up 4 sheets of '025" 3003 for $39 a sheet in Calgary on Friday. (only half a sheet is for the channel! the rest will be compound curve corners, hopefully).

Any tips on suitable fasteners and spacing for attaching the C channel?

Well, on mine the factory used bolts every 4" - 6", with primarily screws every 2" - 3" in the curved sections, but bolts under each rib that comes down in those curved sections. So that's pretty much what I replicated, although I used a few more, so the bolts were more like 3" - 4" apart, and I had a screw through just about every "tab" in the curved part of the channel.

I used washers with neoprene liners to keep the steel bolts and screws from making contact with the aluminum channel, and I also used hex-head screws instead of the awful slotted-head screws the factory used originally.

That painted frame looks great, I'm sure it smells a lot better than the old frame and floor did, too.

-Marcus

truckasaurus · 06-03-2009, 05:02 PM

Today I formed up the C channel, notched it for the curves and temporarily installed it with screws. I need to pick up 200 neoprene washers (Thanks for the tip Marcus) tomorrow and get it finished up.

It was way easier than I thought it was going to be!

It's getting very close to belly pan time which I suspect is going to be a lot harder and following that the lowering of the shell; which I'm hoping fits like a glove because lifting it up and pulling of channel and trimming the floor sounds like a nightmare.

Any how it was nice and sunny today so here are some pics.

**Kevin245** · 06-03-2009, 05:10 PM

Truck,

This really looks good. Thanks for keeping us photo updated.

No Red Stripes?

Kevin

pbearsailor · 06-03-2009, 06:27 PM

Wonder how much the new ones would cost today if they had the quality workmanship that you're putting into yours.

Nice job, truck.

cheers,
steve

truckasaurus · 06-03-2009, 06:27 PM

No red stripes today, but they'll never be far away.

More questions though; I'm looking at bringing the umbilical, break away line and maybe a line for a future power tongue jack into the coach. What I'm looking for is ideas on how to manage the transition from below the floor to above the floor. Is there a kind of grommet that's 3/4" deep or am I barking up the wrong tree?

I could always bring them through one 3/4" diameter hole and just set it all in epoxy but that sounds a bit messy.

Last question, what sort of cable would I need to run for the tongue power jack?

**Kevin245** · 06-03-2009, 06:42 PM

Would something like this work? www.mcmastercarr.com

Push-In Military Specification Grommets

Manufactured to meet MIL-G-3036 and MS-35489 (unless noted), these grommets are also AN (Army-Navy) approved. They insulate and seal around holes cut into panels, while damping vibration and minimizing abrasion. Durometer hardness is 50A.
Flexible grommets are made of Buna-N rubber, have a temperature range of 0° to 250° F, and are black in color. Use indoors.
High-temperature flexible grommets are silicone with a temperature range of -60° to +500° F. Color is red-orange. Use indoors and outdoors.
Additional Flexible MS-35489 grommet numbers 1-156. Please ask for 9307K92 and specify MS-35489 number.
ID OD O'all Panel Panel MS-35489 AN-931
Flexible

Regards,

Kevin

**Kevin245** · 06-03-2009, 06:49 PM

Hey Truck,

I read the wrong dimension on the spec sheet. It looks like these only go to 3/8" max.

Elder Rubber has common grommets that may work

http://catalog.elderrubber.com/ItemListView.aspx?id=82

Kevin

truckasaurus · 06-03-2009, 06:52 PM

Hmn, the rigid version on the same page might work OK. The hitch seems to be that the floor is a nominal 3/4" thick (so about 18.5 mm).

pbearsailor · 06-03-2009, 07:07 PM

I've been planning the same thing on mine. What about using a length of whatever diameter pvc pipe that's big enough, epoxying it to the plywood, and then using some sealant to close it off after the wires are run?

cheers,
steve

**Kevin245** · 06-03-2009, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

Hmn, the rigid version on the same page might work OK. The hitch seems to be that the floor is a nominal 3/4" thick (so about 18.5 mm).

Yes it may. I was thinking that the rubber may seal better for you. It looks like Elder Rubber Company has several in the 3/4" thickness range in their "Common Grommets" section.

truckasaurus · 06-04-2009, 05:44 PM

I ended up with 3/4" flexible conduit. It's quite tricky to bend but it went in and I have it clamped up while the epoxy sets up.

If I need power for a tongue jack it can either come from the breakaway line (like a new Airstream) or I can fish a new 12G through the conduit, maybe.

I installed some sub floor insulation but need to cut and install more tomorrow. (styrofoam SM type stuff)

As it stands I still need holes to drop the hydraulic brake line through the floor and one for propane to enter the coach and hopefully just a 1 1/2" hole for the black tank outflow to join up with the grey tank valve. All of these will be made much later on when the layout is firmed up.

Lastly a Jules Verne style shot of the unnecessarily heavy duty bolts around the perimeter. I used galvanized washers which seal with a squishy rubber layer and serrated flange nuts and the odd dab of epoxy. (about 180 or so)

Frank's Trailer Works · 06-04-2009, 06:09 PM

okay, just a little constructive criticism...
The conduit: I did something similar. I hope you ran a stout string through it first, for fishing through it is VERY difficult. try vacuuming dental line then pull string then cord then the wire. You will understand once you try pulling anything through.
The bolts: You have used way more than you need to. You are gaining nothing but undue weight. Always try and duplicate what was there originally.

Just trying to help not put your work down...