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Old 06-03-2009, 07:27 PM   #113
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No red stripes today, but they'll never be far away.

More questions though; I'm looking at bringing the umbilical, break away line and maybe a line for a future power tongue jack into the coach. What I'm looking for is ideas on how to manage the transition from below the floor to above the floor. Is there a kind of grommet that's 3/4" deep or am I barking up the wrong tree?

I could always bring them through one 3/4" diameter hole and just set it all in epoxy but that sounds a bit messy.

Last question, what sort of cable would I need to run for the tongue power jack?
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Old 06-03-2009, 07:42 PM   #114
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Would something like this work? www.mcmastercarr.com


Push-In Military Specification Grommets


Manufactured to meet MIL-G-3036 and MS-35489 (unless noted), these grommets are also AN (Army-Navy) approved. They insulate and seal around holes cut into panels, while damping vibration and minimizing abrasion. Durometer hardness is 50A.
Flexible grommets are made of Buna-N rubber, have a temperature range of 0 to 250 F, and are black in color. Use indoors.
High-temperature flexible grommets are silicone with a temperature range of -60 to +500 F. Color is red-orange. Use indoors and outdoors.
Additional Flexible MS-35489 grommet numbers 1-156. Please ask for 9307K92 and specify MS-35489 number.
ID OD O'all Panel Panel MS-35489 AN-931
Flexible



Regards,

Kevin
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Old 06-03-2009, 07:49 PM   #115
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Hey Truck,

I read the wrong dimension on the spec sheet. It looks like these only go to 3/8" max.

Elder Rubber has common grommets that may work


http://catalog.elderrubber.com/ItemListView.aspx?id=82


Kevin
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Old 06-03-2009, 07:52 PM   #116
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Hmn, the rigid version on the same page might work OK. The hitch seems to be that the floor is a nominal 3/4" thick (so about 18.5 mm).
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Old 06-03-2009, 08:07 PM   #117
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I've been planning the same thing on mine. What about using a length of whatever diameter pvc pipe that's big enough, epoxying it to the plywood, and then using some sealant to close it off after the wires are run?

cheers,
steve
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Old 06-03-2009, 08:13 PM   #118
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Hmn, the rigid version on the same page might work OK. The hitch seems to be that the floor is a nominal 3/4" thick (so about 18.5 mm).
Yes it may. I was thinking that the rubber may seal better for you. It looks like Elder Rubber Company has several in the 3/4" thickness range in their "Common Grommets" section.
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Old 06-04-2009, 06:44 PM   #119
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an odd solution and extra ballast

I ended up with 3/4" flexible conduit. It's quite tricky to bend but it went in and I have it clamped up while the epoxy sets up.

If I need power for a tongue jack it can either come from the breakaway line (like a new Airstream) or I can fish a new 12G through the conduit, maybe.

I installed some sub floor insulation but need to cut and install more tomorrow. (styrofoam SM type stuff)

As it stands I still need holes to drop the hydraulic brake line through the floor and one for propane to enter the coach and hopefully just a 1 1/2" hole for the black tank outflow to join up with the grey tank valve. All of these will be made much later on when the layout is firmed up.

Lastly a Jules Verne style shot of the unnecessarily heavy duty bolts around the perimeter. I used galvanized washers which seal with a squishy rubber layer and serrated flange nuts and the odd dab of epoxy. (about 180 or so)
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Old 06-04-2009, 07:09 PM   #120
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okay, just a little constructive criticism...
The conduit: I did something similar. I hope you ran a stout string through it first, for fishing through it is VERY difficult. try vacuuming dental line then pull string then cord then the wire. You will understand once you try pulling anything through.
The bolts: You have used way more than you need to. You are gaining nothing but undue weight. Always try and duplicate what was there originally.

Just trying to help not put your work down...
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Old 06-04-2009, 07:34 PM   #121
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All great points, luckily I have the umbilical and breakaway lines installed in the conduit. (I've run into the fishing nightmare before when installing my home theater!).

The bolts are total overkill, 4" OC on the straights like original but the curves do have many more mostly due to the notching procedure required to get the channel to curve smoothly. If I do this again (I like the Ambassador of the same year) I'd keep most of the bolts but I'd try machine screws on the curves for the weight saving.
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Old 06-05-2009, 05:42 AM   #122
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On my 62 the channel was screwed down using flat head screws and only every other segment on the curved part. As I recall, the channel only had bolts through it where it crossed over frame at the out riggers and a few other locations. It was no where near 4" on center. I re worked it exactly the same way except used hex head screws for better drive and a rubber washer to counter act the dissimilar metals.
I apologize for my criticism of your work. I just see it often that people try and re engineer these trailers and improve on something that was fairly proven by the time our era of trailers came along. A restoration is an attempt to return it to it's original condition.
You keep rolling, I am enjoying watching what you do.
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Old 06-05-2009, 07:03 AM   #123
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the channel only had bolts through it where it crossed over frame at the out riggers and a few other locations. .
In the curved sections, the only place mine had bolts was right under each vertical rib-- the ones that are in two pieces, where the bottom "leg" of the rib is riveted on and has an angled gap at the bottom (presumably, to make a space for the bolt to be placed).

But, even 180 bolts nuts and washers probably don't add significant weight, and I think it looks really cool. Though of course, you won't see it with the bellypan on. That's a pity.

-Marcus
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Old 06-05-2009, 07:15 AM   #124
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Hey Frank no apology is needed. Especially so on a project where without good advice and constructive feedback many horrible things could become apparent just a few years or miles down the road.
Being somewhat addicted to this forum I read over and over about projects where unsuitable materials are used or are installed in a manner that will compound the effects of time, moisture and motion. I'm trying for a balance of my Airstreams 48 years of demonstrable build know-how coupled with improvements from contemporary materials and a little extra devotion. Feel free to wave flags when I start laminating up sheets of 3/4" MDF for the cabinets! (just kidding).
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Old 06-05-2009, 09:20 AM   #125
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What's wrong with the 3/4" sheets of MDF? Seriously though, your work looks great. It can be tough to strike that balance between making helpful improvements and not screwing up a good original design. I'm equally addicted to these forums and spend tons of time trying to sort out the good improvements from the overkill or bad improvements.

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Old 06-05-2009, 10:34 AM   #126
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C'mon, Truck... given the work you've put in thus far, I thought you'd have titanium fasteners going in. Seriously, you are an inspiration. I can't wait to get our tin girl back and start embarrassing myself. Keep up the good work.
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