It looks as though you're working way too hard. Judging from the amount of beer in the bottle, it looks like your paint application to to beer consumptiuon ratio is out of whack.
Which, by the way is probably why you did not get much por on you during the process.
Truck,
Your project is looking great,I was in a hurry last fall trying to get my frame painted and the shell on before the snow started falling. It has a good day when the top went back on. It is a lot of work but really does not feel like it when working with these trailers. The cost of the plywood is incredible,I used standard 7 ply and applied 2 coats of sealer. I feel that will outlast me. I read in the forums of someone using green treated plywood and found that the treatment reacts with aluminum and he had to take it all back off.
Good luck with your project, keep the pictures coming.
man, Andy you have a great sense of humor, you should do live mic night.
Truck, anything you use is better than what was used in 1960. Do not feel you need to reinvent the wheel. Just make sure what you buy is flat and solid. Some plywood has a lot of voids, avoid that. I used a product called aquatex. It is a marine plywood and cost me $125/sheet. I also have to say you Canadians brew much better suds than the Jamaicans... were you feeling exotic?
Hey Frank I think you're on the money... anything with a couple of coats of epoxy should be good to better, just maybe not best.
I'm still trying out the Canadian brews (I've only been here a few years) and I like to mix it up a little. Belgian beers like Hoegarden are a favorite but it's not really supposed to drunk straight from the bottle; you need the sediment to get stirred up.
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preparing for the maiden voyage in 2010...
Hey Frank I think you're on the money... anything with a couple of coats of epoxy should be good to better, just maybe not best.
I'm still trying out the Canadian brews (I've only been here a few years) and I like to mix it up a little. Belgian beers like Hoegarden are a favorite but it's not really supposed to drunk straight from the bottle; you need the sediment to get stirred up.
NOW you are speaking my language. Belgian beers are the best on the planet, and I say that with tremendous respect for the Germans and the Czechs, having spent time in all 3 countries, sampling and enjoying their brews.
In Belgium, the majority of beers are regionally available, and are served at bars where they also serve it with the correct glass. Since most Belgian beers consumed locally are bottle-conditioned, you should pour out about 3/4 - 7/8 into the proper glass, and than roll the bottle between your hands to stir up the sediment. Then, pour that into your glass as well, and consume with great pleasure.
But the truth is that ALL beers are best enjoyed from a glass. They are not so different from wine, they need to breathe to be at their best, and drinking beer from a glass brings all of the aromas to your nose as you drink the beer, as opposed to a bottle or can which severely inhibits the olfactory sense.
Finally, I agree with Frank, in that pretty much anything extra you do for the subfloor is better than what the factory did in the 50s/60s. The stuff I put in there was several times better than what I pulled out, and THAT stuff managed to keep the trailer mostly together for 46 years or so.
Anyway, if you're ever down my way let me know, and we'll do a tour of Belgian beers together.
The A frame area on my trailer is all boxed in, I assume that's how it came. What I'm thinking about is whether I want to wrap the belly skin around the horizontal box section and up to the steel plate which I think is normal or not?
What got me thinking is that looking at the spare tire installations some people have done. It entails removing the belly pan from that sort of triangular area and installing styrofoam and then the belly pan and just caulking around the edges. So what I want to know is what's the belly pan section between the A frame box sections doing for me?
It seems that BP piece is protecting the gap between the shell - C channel - plywood floor and frame. If I just wrapped the leading edge of the plywood in aluminum and vulkem'd between it the C channel and shell would I accomplish the same thing?
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preparing for the maiden voyage in 2010...
I insulated the spare tire cutout on mine before I installed the floorboard. I cut a section of insulation foam that was 1" thick to fit above the "A" frame. I then glued a piece of .025 aluminum to the bottom of the foam and sealed it to the "A" frame. The new floorboard was the last piece of this sandwitch. See page 6, post 78 on the below thread for pictures.
Very interesting indeed. One more bit to my question though. In the picture (I hope it's OK to borrow from your thread) the primed aluminum with the corners notched out to fit over the A frame box section, does it end at the lower edge of the frame or does it roll under and back up again?
William
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preparing for the maiden voyage in 2010...
It just rolls aft, however there are two more pieces that are not shown in the photos. there is an angle on the front side and rear side that attaches to the .025 skin and the front and rear frame crossmembers of the opening. I would take a picture for you but the GT is at home in Colorado, and I am in British Columbia. I will tke one when I get home this weekend.
Ah, I think I get it now, a picture would definitely help though if you get the chance.
I went to a presentation at the Southern Alberta Institute of Technology earlier in the week as I'm looking into their Aircraft Structure Technician course; very interesting indeed.
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preparing for the maiden voyage in 2010...
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