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Old 04-29-2009, 07:49 PM   #57
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I just looked it up in my "Full Monte" thread. Sandblasting the frame myself was about $230. Tou can read about it here if you're interested: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f226...e-15132-9.html

Start at post 116.

Jim
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Old 04-29-2009, 07:58 PM   #58
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local? you want local?

How about:

Eagle's Nest POR-15
Located in Spruce Grove, AB
Call Jim @ (780) 717-3648 Fax: (780) 987-4668
Or try their website:


They're just near Deadmonton. Appears to be about a ˝ hour drive for you.
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Old 04-29-2009, 08:29 PM   #59
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I really wanted to try sandblasting even though everyone told me it was great for a few minutes then it gets old, fast. I checked rental out and the machine was $145 a day then I'd need sand and protective clothing, subbing it out is $185 an hour for 1 1/2 hrs.

I'll check the Eagles's nest (I thought it was a bikers place, choppers etc) but with PORCanada asking $60 a quart plus shipping and Vintage at $45 US (~$56CAD) again plus shipping I'd be lucky to break even doing the work myself compared to the oil rig shop in town.

I don't want to sound like I'm subbing all the work out and in fact sometimes I'll pay a premium to do things myself but you've got to have a balance.
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Old 04-29-2009, 08:57 PM   #60
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......I don't want to sound like I'm subbing all the work out and in fact sometimes I'll pay a premium to do things myself but you've got to have a balance.
Yes indeed. I've subbed out a few things on mine as well. It's just that I'm so cheap, my default is to DYI it! Your work looks great. Keep it up.

Jim
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Old 04-29-2009, 11:00 PM   #61
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truck, nice job. here a couple of things i learned on my project.

don't bother with the sandblasting, not necessary. i was going to do it to but then i looked into it and it seemed too expensive and messy so i tried my angle grinder and it worked great. just take the angle grinder with a wire wheel and that will get all of the scale off. then por 15 it. you can even rent a paint sprayer and por 15 it that way (that's what i did but a had a painter friend lend me his and it worked sweet and only took a couple of hours for the first coat and less than that for the second coat.

in terms of the ball jacks, you need to have the cross bracing in the exact spot where you want the jack located. keep in mind they are not levelers, only stabilizers. you can look up my thread and see some detailed pix of my ball jack installation. i needed to add cross members to mount the jacks to. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f411...oud-27533.html

keep up the good work!
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Old 04-30-2009, 02:57 PM   #62
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I mean this as a suggestion, and am qualifying this because I don't have anywhere that much work in my AS to qualify me as an 'expert'

but... (here it comes...)

Do you really want the bathroom door across from the food prep counter (sink and stove)? Kind of akward. Maybe put the fridge down there?
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:43 PM   #63
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Hi guys, thanks for the tips. I don't quite see how the Bal jacks can be bolted in place on the chassis before the belly pan is fitted. Are you going to have the belly pan fitted around the jacks or will you tap the steel cross-members?

I thought I'd complete the BP then locate the chassis rails and cross-members on the belly skin then pilot drill holes and bolt the jacks in place with self tapping bolts, maybe some super fancy expanding bolts... I'd like the jacks to tear out if I drag one rather than mangle the frame.

I could probably skip the sand blasting but there are some areas that it's just not possible to get at with a wheel, plus I have a large amount of new steel surface area. Given that there's no way this project is going to come in at less than $30k before cabinets I'm still keen on doing some really solid prep work. (I also picked up several old tractor inner tubes for wrapping up brakes/ spindles etc).

I did manage to pick up the 30" metal brake today and paint in Red Deer Alberta, (Central Alberta Paints and Supplies). The sales guy was great and when I asked his opinion about buying 4 quarts or just a gallon and 4 empty quart pots he said he'd give me the empty pots for free. I thought that was a nice offer until he said I could have 4 quarts for the gallon price! So 4 quarts grey POR15 came in at $171 Canadian, total paint and prep liquids cost for the day was $290. I did think about spraying it on but I'm safer with a brush! (I sprayed my house last year and lets just say I wouldn't want to do it for a living).

I was sorely tempted to leave the painting to the sand blasting/ rig guys but in the end I wanted to know it was as good as it could get. I'm guessing POR15 would probably last longer on the tank supports where they'll be pelted with road debris. (Oil rigs being somewhat stationary). Worst case I'll apply undercoating to the support assembly.
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:52 PM   #64
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If you want to sandblast, then definitely do it. I wire-wheeled the heck out of mine, and it was satisfying to see all the old funk get knocked off the frame, but I think sandblasting would feel even more so.

POR-15 is remarkable stuff, solid and yet it seems to have just a tiny bit of "give" to the touch, like really really hard rubber. It goes on great, even with a brush, which is what I used. It will lie down and form a nice, smooth, solid coating.

As for the costs, well, it's only money. Thank you for helping to stimulate the global economy. Those of us who are performing major renovations are true Heroes to Society!

-Marcus
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Old 04-30-2009, 11:30 PM   #65
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Hi guys, thanks for the tips. I don't quite see how the Bal jacks can be bolted in place on the chassis before the belly pan is fitted. Are you going to have the belly pan fitted around the jacks or will you tap the steel cross-members?
Instructions come with the BAL jacks.

They install like a piece of cake, even after the underbelly is on. No bigee.

The BAL jacks would take about 1/2 hour, to install all 4.

Andy
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Old 04-30-2009, 11:46 PM   #66
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Hey truck. Great job so far. Your tanks cavities look just like what I have done on my 58 overlander. I think you'll be happy with that setup. I had my frame professionally sandblasted. It may not be needed but Glad I did. There are some steps just not worth trying to tackle if you don't already have the equipment. Just my opinion. I treated my flooring with a penetrating wood sealer I believe called PC petrifier, Then used West epoxy on top of that. I do not believe my floor has much chance of rotting anytime soon! After the epoxy coat the plywood actually looks so good I hate to cover it. Quality work always pays off. Keep it up. Ed
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:16 AM   #67
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If you have the cash to have someone else do the sandblasting, then by all means do it. My costs were fairly low: Harbor freight sandblaster @ $80 on sale, 400 lbs. blasting media @ $40. But oh, my aching back! All that sand doesn't get itself into the trash... and the dusty mess that's left over is quite a headache.

My Bal jacks came with self tapping screws. I welded some 1 1/2" angle on so I wouldn't have to drill into the frame. I'd advise prepping the mounts now if you can. I know you don't have the jacks yet.... Here's how I did mine:
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Old 05-01-2009, 11:29 AM   #68
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I forgot to address the bathroom/ kitchen layout question; I'll try and move the integrated cooktop/ sink away from the bathroom door but there really isn't much leeway what with the wheel wells location.

Also I'm still on the fence with the floor sealer/ treatment and will do some more research. I need to verify compatibility with the final surfacing. I'd like the floor covering to be either cork, but just cork, no HDF or MDF backing. I have a supplier with cork variants that are just unbelievably cool even zebra cork, in fact he had reconstituted leather tiles too, they look fantastic but again feature water resistant HDF backing! My second choice would be a marmoleum or similar.

I tried to find some suitable plywood but nothing leaps out just yet. (Although one of my hardwood suppliers has some special grades of plywood in stock. He has what he said was aeronautical grade stuff that is Xray'd for voids and comes super thin (maybe 2 mm) and bendy! Maybe that'll come in handy for cabinets). Good exterior 3/4" should do for the floor (North american preferably) so far it looks like $60 a sheet against $109 for marine.

I really enjoy following your progress on your blogs and I can't wait to get some paint down and break out the new air tools!
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Old 05-01-2009, 10:16 PM   #69
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There are many grades of marine plywood, and may pricepoints. Mine cost approx. $80 per sheet and required minimal treatment to seal it against water saturation. Standard ACX has many voids -especially in the 5/8" thickness. I am much happier with the marine ply I've used this on this trailer than the better grade of ACX I used on our last trailer.
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Old 05-01-2009, 10:58 PM   #70
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sealing epoxy

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Plywood sealant question. Has anyone tried POR15 on plywood at all? Under my tanks I'll have 3/4" plywood and I was going to use West Epoxy but maybe POR15 would be good too, thoughts?
I got my sealing epoxy from Industrial Plastics and Paints, I see there is a outlet in Calgary. Also they sell Napier Removall cheaper than most if you have to do some stripping.
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