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Old 10-24-2010, 06:09 PM   #379
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On a roll

I picked up a (temporary) tractor battery and got the Actibrake system running yesterday and squeezed A rivets around the door frame with Knipex pliers which worked out great. Plus I tried some of the newly arrived products out for size. Extra credit goes to PrecisionTemp for their packaging, the whole box is full of expanding foam to protect the stainless steel heater, genius. Anyhow here's the general layout so far, Vacuflush system at the rear, tub with Hepvo curbside and water heater just inside the curbside wheel well. The PrecisionTemp will be power vented behind the wheels if all goes to plan but at the moment I have quite a bit of layout flexibility.

No sign of the head yet (which is kind of mysterious) and the fridge arrived without a compressor or anything, just an insulated cabinet! Hopefully I can get that straightened out tomorrow and on with the construction ASAP.
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Old 11-11-2010, 09:34 AM   #380
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It's occurred to me that with all the expensive stuff soon to be installed I should probably work on the door now! I'm going to try straightening and re-skinning the doors today, this should be fun....
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Old 11-11-2010, 09:47 AM   #381
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Cant wait to see the door progress. I have two cracks (one on each side of the door frame) that need to be welded. My clients husband is an expert in welding aluminum so I am going to sub it out to him. Take LOTS of pics!!
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Old 11-11-2010, 09:53 AM   #382
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1960 24' Tradewind
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The shower pan I got has that same "styrofoam" base and I'm wondering whether I should keep it or not (?). It looks like you're planning on keeping it. I'm a worrier and am thinking it's going to "crush" over time and cause problems. Does it matter either way?

Great work, thanks for posting your project.
MarkR
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Old 11-11-2010, 10:12 AM   #383
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I don't think the beaded foam would get crushed but that's a good point. Once I have the support frame in place I'd like to slip a couple of sealed bags of high density expanding foam in place to help shore it all up, much like you would with readymix concrete until a regular residential tub installation. Also I picked the Dometic Vacuflush 5048 toilet up from the UPS depot on Monday so I should get a good idea of how much room I have to play with.

I hope the door frame is crack free but I guess I'll find out later on today (it's 7 below right now and I don't want to get stuck to the door).
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Old 11-11-2010, 11:37 AM   #384
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I am in-visioning a vacuflush system in my 71 Sovereign ground up redo, but I have had some difficulty in figuring out exactly all the parts and pieces I will need. Can you post or e-mail me a list of all the parts of the system? I am interested in seeing yours together and hearing more about it.

Thank you and have a great day.
Chad
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Old 11-11-2010, 12:12 PM   #385
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Hi Chad, figuring it all out had me quite confused, so far I've just purchased the combined vacuum generator- vacuum tank - holding tank unit (10 HTS) and the toilet (Dometic 5048). Next I'll need a transfer pump (T-pump) to send the stuff from the holding tank out to the exit valve and all the piping (1 1/2"). There seem to be various models available some with built in transfer pumps etc and deciding what I wanted drove me near to insanity, I scored a great deal by buying the tank unit from a marine liquidator in the UK and getting it shipped to Canada, the toilet was another matter entirely; I will never buy anything from SeaCoastServices.com if I live to 200.

The 10 in the HTS name relates to capacity (gallons) so it's small but allegedly used about 1/4 of the water that a typical RV/ marine unit does so that should help, if not I'll route it to the grey tank and go combined black/ grey or just install a secondary black tank.

It all seems well made but I guess we'll see how it works out wen built in.
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Old 11-11-2010, 05:31 PM   #386
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so far

So far so good; I got the door de-skinned and checked for cracks, all good :-) There was quite a mess in the lower section of the insulation and some corrosion to clean up but generally not too bad. I need to order some door seal and lock retainers but I'll start with the new skins tomorrow.
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Old 11-11-2010, 09:09 PM   #387
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Still looking for 2010 finish up? Been following your progress. Outstanding work!
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Old 11-12-2010, 09:16 AM   #388
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Well I got the trailer rolling and sealed up again in 2010 but school and a new career got in the way somewhat so now I've set a deadline to stick to. We're going to take August off and head down to California. There's a ton of work still to do especially if we need to take her out for a test camp weekend or two! In fact I think there's about 30 weekends until summer.
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Old 11-12-2010, 05:50 PM   #389
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good so far

This afternoon I made a new exterior skin for the main door, I used .032" but if I'd had some .040" on hand that would probably be even better (stronger). It's sealed up but needs riveting (the rivets I removed felt like A's not AD's so I'll probably use them again especially as they squeeze easier by hand. I'll line the inside with eaves guard and insulation for a solid feel and may whip up new interior skins too.

I ordered some door seals from Vintage and snuck a Progressive Dynamics 4045 AC/DC distribution- converter unit in with the order whilst I was at it :-)
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Old 11-12-2010, 06:14 PM   #390
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Been working on my 77 since 2004 and only now is it road worthy. You've made
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Old 11-21-2010, 04:32 PM   #391
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It's COLD

I must be insane. I brought the door inside to apply the gasket to the outer lip as it's 20 below outside now! The first attempt to get a better fit by pushing the door to fit then drilling and riveting was not so effective so I built a quick cradle on the bench and compressed the centre section about an inch with clamps then drilled and installed fasteners. This worked better, not 100% perfect I still have the inner seal to fit when it's warmer.

I bought some door latch pockets too but the deadbolt is too fat too fit in them which is a shame. Any how pics attached for that winter feeling..
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:39 PM   #392
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Truck, On mine I used an angle grinder to reduce the size/thickness of the deadbolt throw. You could make it the correct size to fit. Just a thought. Ed
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