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Old 05-19-2010, 11:23 PM   #337
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Truck, these two pieces will be on their way up to you tomorrow. The piece to the left is basically a water diverter that goes around the vent hole and deflects water around the hole. It was riveted down with a bead of Vulkem. The hole through the roof was about 1 1/2 to 2" in diameter. Both pieces on mine were installed with pop rivets. I assume this was a repair done at some time after manufacture, as they would sure look better and be more weather resistant with bucked rivets.
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Old 05-20-2010, 09:33 AM   #338
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I'm going to do my best to give them a new home, hopefully for another 50 years!

Thanks again Norm.
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Old 05-26-2010, 10:16 AM   #339
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Polishing Polishing

So the polishing continues.... The end of the first cut is in sight, a couple more good days maybe.

I took a shot of the olympic rivets that I had used a while back to fill in the holes left when removing the awning rail. I don't plan on splurging on a rivet shaver so I just filed the mandrels down just like on a Cherry rivet. I think they work well, especially after the polishing wheel has passed over them.

I'm going to pick up some stainless pan head screws and switch them out with the stock items I'd used to install the fantastic fans, it seems like they will work better placing less stress on the plastic frames.

I'm looking at using Roxul mineral wool insulation in some areas and wondered if anyone has used it before. It seems well suited?
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Old 05-26-2010, 01:20 PM   #340
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On the Roxul "Acoustic" mineral wool insulation - in the shell cavities there are other products superior as thermal insulation and equal in sound absorption. Where the Roxul or Owens Corning lines excel is as open-air fire-safe acoustic absorbent material in public venues - say ten or thirty feet off the ground in schools, theaters, halls, etc.. Were it will see zero wear and tear... You'd have to be planning a serious home theater to work around its fragility and interior space loss.

Yet - if someone is paying you or yours to remove it as a tenant modification to a conference room or recording studio I might be tempted to experiment with it under the floor and interior surface mounted 'modern art' panels / tapestries blah blah or some such to make music or entertaining a bit more classy...
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Old 05-26-2010, 02:06 PM   #341
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I'm going to pick up some stainless pan head screws and switch them out with the stock items I'd used to install the fantastic fans, it seems like they will work better placing less stress on the plastic frames.
Truck, I used stainless oval head screws and they fit much better than the stock screws. I think the pan head screws might not fit as well in the countersunk screw holes of the fantastic fans.
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Old 05-30-2010, 06:13 PM   #342
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A bit of a delay

So I drove all the way to the trailer but 2 days of yucky weather... I got zip accomplished!
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Old 06-28-2010, 08:22 PM   #343
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I'm after some window refurbishment tips, maybe a link to a how-to-thread or something. I managed to get the lower frame of the double section front street window out as it doesn't have a gutter above it. I cleaned the frame up and then promptly trod on the glass pane that the GF had spent an hour cleaning! It looks like I need to take out a few rivets from each gutter to get the windows to slide out; is that correct?

I haven't calipered the glass yet but it looks like 3/32" (37 3/8" x 16 3/8" for the piece already smushed into pieces) and I'm assuming it's just plain window glass or has anyone tried something more exotic glass wise.

I'd really like to know what goes between the trailer attached frame extrusion and the glass itself, it looks like butyl but with fabric embedded in it but it was so old and crumbly it's hard to tell.
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Old 06-28-2010, 08:30 PM   #344
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Truck--

Frank Yensan (aka 62Overlander) of Frank's Trailer Works posted a pretty detailed primer on window replacement/repair for his 62 Overlander, which should also be applicable to the windows on your 61 I believe. You can find it at the link below, start with Windows 101, then read Windows 102, and finally Windows 103.

Frank's Trailer Works Blog: March 2009

Good luck!

-Marcus
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:47 PM   #345
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Franks description was excellent, now all I need is the glass and glazing tape. It looks like the 1/8" glass is the best option.
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:09 PM   #346
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Franks description was excellent, now all I need is the glass and glazing tape. It looks like the 1/8" glass is the best option.
Yes, Frank's primer was excellent. Thanks, Marcus, for providing the link again. And thank you frank for sharing your work on your blog.
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Old 07-01-2010, 04:57 AM   #347
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I use 1/8"regular glass. Some choose to use tempered. I would rather clean up 40 glass shards if breaks than 4000 if a piece of tempered shatters. The coolest thing about this era of window, is if it does break, the fix is very easy and inexpensive. It has been a while since I wrote that tutorial, so a few hints....
A)heat works well at getting the old butyl off the frames. Any stubborn butyl will be melted by lacquer thinner or MEK.
B)make sure the groove the rubber gasket goes into has no, none, zero debris in it. Dental tools come in handy. Often glass was replaced and some clod(yes clod, this was not needed and I have seen it a few times) used that 3M adhesive as extra holding. Make sure every bit is out or the outer seal will not seat properly.
C) The glass must be cut very exact. I have an old school glass shop that cuts it exactly to the size I order. Tolerances are critical. I order it 3/32" smaller than the total space within the frame where it sits. This give just a little space for the butyl to squeeze around the edge of the glass along each edge.
D) by the time you get to the last one, you will feel confident but the project will be done.
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Old 07-05-2010, 08:52 AM   #348
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man that is some awesome work you have done. Gives me a lot of ideas for doing my own. Looking forward to seeing more.
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Old 07-25-2010, 06:36 PM   #349
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We followed Franks tutorial with tips and completed one shiny new window refurbishment. The 3/8" butyl tape worked out great as we just trimmed it after installation :-)

I'm going to get all new glass as the original stuff just won't clean up, but it's got me thinking of how to tackle the fly screens.

I was going to clean them and get them re screened but as they're pretty corroded I thought I'll just get new ones. I'll check in with the local glass place but I was wondering if anyone had tried making them from a kit? (I'm also wondering about getting them in white but I might get flamed for heresy).

Anyhow it's good to make a little more progress especially as it didn't involve any polishing at all.
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Old 07-25-2010, 06:55 PM   #350
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you can remake them yourself. The identical aluminum extrusion for the frames is sold in 8 foot lengths at home depot. It cuts on a miter saw with a fine tooth blade. The hard part is finding the clips that go internally at the miters. The ones they sell are plastic and are butt ends not miters. The clips might be inside yours and could be reused. I found them at an Ace Hardware that makes screens and repairs them.
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