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Old 05-17-2010, 07:45 AM   #323
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Originally Posted by truckasaurus View Post
I'm thinking that I should really get some help working out the vent details about now. I had kind of forgotten that as well as water and grey water vents I also need to vent the refrigerator. The black tank is pretty sorted as I'll just follow the Vacuflush installation instruction).

I scanned a Dometic installation manual (for the 2351) online but couldn't quite figure it all out. Do fridges have a low level and high level vent? and if so is there a square inch area that I need to take account of? What I need to understand is how big a roof vent I should plan on and if I can just run some duct or something inside the wall to get up there.

I know I've read on here somewhere that one plumbing fix involved a special kind of valve or vent that didn't require a thru roof fitting, it's designed for use in residential kitchen island situations where a typical vent isn't possible, if anyone knows what it's called I'd love to use them to cut down on holes I need to keep or cut.

I also saw that Jacob D used a sidewall Westmarine vent for his fresh tank and it looked very cool so if 5/8" diameter allows enough venting I'm keen to go that route too.
As far as refrigerator venting goes, this what I worked out on my 62'. With all of your changes in the floor plan the 61' roof vent is no doubt now in the a different location.

My 62' did and still does vent through the wall to what I call the birds mouth vent on the roof. The original Dometic was larger and vented in the same place but directly to a small open hood on the inside wall. I do not have a photo of this but you probably had the same arrangement.

I enclosed the original heat screen along with the area where the exhaust vents and built in a themostatic vent fan (still not wired up) and always open the bottom vent door while refer is operating on LP.

The other temporary set up was an aluminum dryer vent hose which worked for three years before the one shown in these photos. Now going on six years with extra vent fan.

But it works and I like the look of the old roof vent.

Exterior photo shows roof vent and vent channel area.(rivet lines) Left of door next to handle.
Dryer hose vent with enclosed heat gas.
Final enclosed vent with built in fan.
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Old 05-17-2010, 09:32 AM   #324
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Fridges

Most interesting. This is another instance where buying a pre gutted trailer makes things tricky when trying to piece the mystery together.

In the 1st photo I had assumed that the charred looking area was a fridge vent channel and that somewhere down the line a PO had ripped the top vent off and patched it. The holes in it that had wires crossing through should indicate otherwise but who knows what went on back in the day. There was also a large patch at floor level, 2nd shot, that could have been the intake area, maybe?

I like the birds mouth vent, a la Safari62's trailer, and would love to go that route especially if I could create a though floor intake vent, it would mean I could keep the sleek exterior look. (Westmarine has some smart vent cowls, pic 3). I guess I would have to add a helper fan for the gasses and I don't quite understand what stops rain getting into the roof vent when towing but itt seems feasible...
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Old 05-17-2010, 09:50 AM   #325
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These are the only photos I can show right now.....but if you look closely at the interior of the roof vent you will see that the outward surface is raised about a quarter inch above the surface of the exterior skin.

The "hood" of the vent is also open at the top, allowing for exhaust to past either way. Water flowing from above cannot go into the vent because of the raised plate under the hood. Ingenious!

Astrodome pic...look to lower right corner to see top of open hood vent.

I can take closer pics later if needed.
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Old 05-17-2010, 10:12 AM   #326
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That is pretty ingenious, nice and simple too.
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Old 05-17-2010, 12:09 PM   #327
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Truck, I didn't want to jam up your thread with a bunch of pictures, so I posted photos of my vents on the Overlander to my Airforums blog. I have a roof vent for the gray tanks that I think will have a mushroom cap. My challenge is that I have the Nature's Head composting toilet which will go on the starboard side but my roof vent (and frig vents) are on the port side. One of my thoughts is to vent into the wheel well. Another is to run the venting pipe over to the stack. One of the reasons I'm rough framing and mocking up the interior is so I can figure out all of my mechanicals before I enclose anything. I think I'm good on plumbing and electrical. Venting is the last challenge. Oh, and I'm building a bench seat shower using the wheel well. I'll use the distance between the top of the well and the bottom of the seat to run my furnace duct and possibly venting. I know that probably doesn't make sense, but I'll post pictures when I fab it.
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Old 05-17-2010, 12:37 PM   #328
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that blackening you see is caused by the mixture on the flame running too rich not that a fire took place. In the application Gary is showing the flue gasses are being removed but the heat from the coils is being sent into the room. I have this same set up in my trailer using a new Dometic.
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On the wall is this scoop that originally funneled the fumes up and into the wall.
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The hole into the inner wall space is just a little small and was widened out to take out the whole area behind the scoop.
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I bent a new chimney to send the fumes directly into the wall and out. It vents air under the front and out the back of the counter top to cool the coils.
All of this is very close to how the system originally was with the gas only Dometic
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Old 05-17-2010, 02:01 PM   #329
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Frank, thanks for the insight. I'm amazed that the fridges work with such a short chimney. I like the alternative of just venting the combustion gases outside--great for trailers with the shortest fridges, like a 60s Bambi. But I still prefer the tall sealed chimney, with the draft and combustion air all going outside. It improves performance in the hot afternoons in the Black Rock Desert.

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Old 05-17-2010, 04:24 PM   #330
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Zep, I would prefer to have the gas and the hot air go out, but that meant cutting a hole. The warm air is welcomed in the winter but ads to heat in summer. I just thought to keep it simple. The original system was simple. I wish I had some photos of the eyebrow vent...
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Old 05-17-2010, 05:14 PM   #331
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Here is a photo of the eyebrow vent. I didn't have much choice but to replace this on my trailer as the original owner had retrofitted a larger vent (seen to the left of the eyebrow) back in the 60's. Truck, if you need one of these vent covers, you can have mine. It also has a triangle flange that sits underneath and deflects water around the vent hole.
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Old 05-17-2010, 08:21 PM   #332
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I don't even want to think what this work would be like without the airforums wealth of knowledge and friendly helpful attitude. Thanks for all the pictures it really helps.

I managed to scoot out and investigate wire and receptacle boxes, or I should say I tried to. It seems that the shallow acrylic boxes aren't approved for Canadian use so I'm having to think a bit harder. On the up side I have found some sources for 12/2 Stranded which may be useable, one is $1.45 per foot frpm NAPA Wire - Universal, 12 Gauge; Red;Black
The other is closer to 47 c per foot. SJEOOW-12-2BK250 Products

Also I ordered some Trempro 636, aka the smooth Vulkem, from Fastenal so at last I've succeeded in buying something locally!

I did waiver earlier today and Googled some of the 12V fridges but they just don't seem right for this application, maybe next time.
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Old 05-17-2010, 10:22 PM   #333
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Your first link didn't work, but the second appears to be similar to what I used for the brake wires on my trailer. That stuff is very thick and takes a full 5/8th grommet space. For the bulk of your work, you may need room to fit either 2 or 3 pairs unless you plan to drill tons of extra holes in the ribs. I highly recommend buying the 12g stranded wire in individual spools or a pair that has much less insulation.
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Old 05-18-2010, 06:14 PM   #334
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I settled on a mix of stranded marine cable 12/2 and some single stranded 12 (for the 12 and 120V), and a bazillion 5/8" grommets. The 2 conductor marine stuff looks very slim so if Fedex don't hit me with a huge shipping charge it should be all good.

Now back to refrigeration:

I came across a suggestion from InlandRV Andy which I wanted to run by you all.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f480...tml#post812924

Does anyone have any ideas about what the floor vent would resemble? If it's 8" x 8" it's going to make fitting it tight to the belly pan tricky without use of a shrinker/ stretcher but I prefer it to the idea of a louvered or plain door, I think.
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Old 05-19-2010, 02:51 PM   #335
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Electrical Question

More pictures by Wednesday..... But until then I've got a few more questions.

If I install the acrylic shallow box receptacles linked in previous posts can I use regular (residential) style 120 V receptacles?

I also assumed that I'd find 12V light switches that looked like household ones but all I can see are little automotive style white rocker switches, is that the norm? (It crossed my mind that maybe I could use 120v switches for the 12v DC lights but something tells me that I should ask first )
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Old 05-19-2010, 03:20 PM   #336
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The floor vent in my '73 is 4-3/8 x 20-1/8 inches and runs lengthwise 3/16-inch from the C-Channel. The corners are radiused, not square, on about a 1-inch curve. This hole in the floor is protected from above with galvanized 1/4" mesh steel fabric. Basically it is the entire bottom open area of the refrigerators apparatus area, less the framing.
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