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Old 08-06-2009, 10:17 AM   #239
Restorations done right
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WD40 takes it right off. Buy it by the gallon....
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Old 08-06-2009, 11:21 AM   #240
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A gallon it is then, thanks Frank, also I'm resisting the urge to get the polisher ASAP and instead ordered the Jestco kit. I spoke with a guy at 3M earlier and he was very helpful but their 8" pads (#05703) are about $40 and up so I could see it getting really expensive fast.
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Old 08-06-2009, 06:34 PM   #241
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Roadkill shot

Today was slow, I finished up prep work on the fiberglass end caps ready for priming, I'm thinking of trying Kilz primer with a thick 4" roller before re-installing , any thoughts? I'll be applying regular latex paint when that day eventually comes, again probably with a roller. "Slight admission of guilt, POR15 took it's toll on my spray gun :-( ".

So.... I thought I'd get the old interior skin out for a look see.

A. There's a lot of it and B. that means lots of work one way or another. I think I might prep them with sanding and roll them up ready for re-use or as templates. I may make the ceiling panel new and polished but the rest will be painted. There are loads of old access patches and scrappy pieces that need to be remedied somehow.

A eureka moment today occurred after listening to the VAP's 100 last night. I was looking at the Airstream plaque on the front and lo and behold there's a ghost of a Wally's Caravan sticker just below the old WBCC numbers! I checked and the rear is the same too. Neat.
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Old 08-06-2009, 07:12 PM   #242
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That's a very cool photo! Thanks.

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Old 08-06-2009, 07:30 PM   #243
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Very cool indeed, and answers my question of whether you were able to get the interior skins out without taking them apart.
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Old 08-07-2009, 08:12 PM   #244
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...as dull as watching paint dry....

Yup, nothing exciting today, although the caps look way better and I found the painting quite motivational. Having taken them right down to the glass fiber/ Bondo I then primed the end caps twice and started on some of the interior sheet.

I decided to prep the sheets I definitely want to keep and some I'll just clean up for template duty. I belt/ RO sanded the sheet then marine cleaned them before coating with Kilz oil based primer on both faces. This is going to take forever and a day but I can't imagine the nightmare it must be to do this on anything other than a flat(ish) table. Scratch that, I can imagine how bad it will be because I need to do it to some areas of the shell, just aft of the doorway their is corrosion and black soot to address

Today I learnt that tightly rolling a 16' x 4' sheet is harder than you'd think but I need to get it done ready to move the project for winter storage next month or so.
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Old 08-07-2009, 08:54 PM   #245
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... but I need to get it done ready to move the project for winter storage next month or so.
Sometimes, the size of this big Earth astonishes me even now. Down here it hit around 107 degrees at my house, and yet here you are talking about winter storage in a month or so. Truly remarkable.

Anyway, nice work, as per usual. You are meticulous, and I thoroughly enjoy watching your progress. I can watch paint dry all day long, knowing what was there before.

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Old 08-07-2009, 09:45 PM   #246
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Austin sounds great, nice and toasty and lots of BBQ too.. and very kind words too, thank you.

I have a question for the bubble foil guru's I was pondering the best way to install it in the curved end cap areas and it occurred to me that being as my model has fiber glass caps rather than metal could I just glue the bubble foil to the shell or even the end cap itself? I mean, I don't have the metal - air - metal dilemma. I'm re-reading all the reflectix posts but I've not found a great answer for the caps as yet.
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Old 08-08-2009, 05:42 AM   #247
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I just finished the first layer of Reflectix on mine two weekends ago.

I'm sure there are multiple ideas on doing this but your post sort of invites two responses. First, you could spend as much time on careful piecuts as utee94 did on his terrific inner shell or you can use up some of the scrap by piecing in some of the smaller remnants to accomodate the compound curves. I was fairly carefull to cut the pieces to get a tight butt joint. I put the new piece over the installed one, drew around it with a Sharpie and then cut to the line. I used 3M spray contact adhesive to put it up and then used foil tape (not duck tape) to cover the joints. You can see from the picture which approach I chose.

The other question though involves next steps. I've started stringing the new wire. After that the only plumbing that will go in the wall will be the drain line for the AC unit and a vent stack for the kitchen. When all that is done the plan is to cut lots of strips of 1/2 inch styrofoam and glue them on liberally to serve as spacers before applying a second layer of Reflectix to provide a continuous final layer. The point of the process is to create multiple layers of trapped insulating air, the bubbles of the first layer, the middle void and then the inner layer. This result will only occur if each of these steps is taken in turn.
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Old 08-08-2009, 06:51 AM   #248
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Some great looking work going on here.... Getting that interoir end cap back on was hard on mine. I suggest it's the firt interior piece you put in. The shell is too rigid if the wall panels are in first.
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Old 08-08-2009, 11:12 AM   #249
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Looks like you did a fantastic job! I love looking at your progress.



Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseleagle View Post
I just finished the first layer of Reflectix on mine two weekends ago.

I'm sure there are multiple ideas on doing this but your post sort of invites two responses. First, you could spend as much time on careful piecuts as utee94 did on his terrific inner shell or you can use up some of the scrap by piecing in some of the smaller remnants to accomodate the compound curves. I was fairly carefull to cut the pieces to get a tight butt joint. I put the new piece over the installed one, drew around it with a Sharpie and then cut to the line. I used 3M spray contact adhesive to put it up and then used foil tape (not duck tape) to cover the joints. You can see from the picture which approach I chose.

The other question though involves next steps. I've started stringing the new wire. After that the only plumbing that will go in the wall will be the drain line for the AC unit and a vent stack for the kitchen. When all that is done the plan is to cut lots of strips of 1/2 inch styrofoam and glue them on liberally to serve as spacers before applying a second layer of Reflectix to provide a continuous final layer. The point of the process is to create multiple layers of trapped insulating air, the bubbles of the first layer, the middle void and then the inner layer. This result will only occur if each of these steps is taken in turn.
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Old 08-08-2009, 11:13 AM   #250
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Hey Diesel that looks like a great job, I'm really looking forward to getting the insulation in although I can see how messy a can of spray adhesive could be in my hands! I was thinking I needed to patch a couple of 1" holes on the front end cap aluminum but instead I'm going to order a replacement radio antenna from VintageSupply. (Ryan R&KWeber has one and it looks cool). Plus I listen to the radio alot.

It's occurred to me that I won't know which holes in the fiberglass should have pop rivets installed in until the sheet aluminum goes up, what's the consensus here? just install rivets every 6" or so?
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Old 08-09-2009, 05:20 AM   #251
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I assume that the holes you are referring to are above the window. If they are to the side they would probably be from the early TV antenae. I have to give credit to Frank Yensan for the idea, but this is how I dealt with mine.



We grew up in Illinois and travel back regularly to visit relatives, so it seemed like the natural solution.

The end cap was definitely riveted with coarse spacing prior to the aluminum panels going up. BTW, I'm sure you've considered the need to hang any wiring you'll need for lights, speakers, etc..., prior to the endcap going back in.
As
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Old 08-09-2009, 10:31 AM   #252
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The holes are on the side of the front window so you're right they must have been for TV antenna, I'll have to do some measuring to see whether mounting a radio version work in that location

I like the patches Frank came up with, presumably they're made with a scroll saw or something. However, I might need to save the patches for a couple of other places. I might even try a 3D variant, layering up several pieces to create something I have in mind.

When I rivet the caps back in I might try using something adhesive too, I will need to move the trailer to a new temporary home before the sheet work goes back in and I'm a little worried (it's going to be a slow haul for sure). Possibly a semi flexible adhesive would help?

I have removed all the holes for switches and lights that were in my end caps as I like the smooth look but I should run some lines for a just in case scenario and power and audio to what was the medicine cabinet in the bathroom. Is there a particular wire I should be looking for or just a regular 14G for the 120 Volt, how about 12 Volt wiring?
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