Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-30-2009, 07:25 AM   #225
Rivet Master
 
utee94's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,636
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseleagle View Post
Then I tried running a putty knife all the way around and, lo and behold, just behind the wheelwell on the curb side a dimple on the skin was hung up on a split from forming the belly pan wrap. It was the barest hangnail, but as soon as I freed it the shell settled right in place where it belonged.

If that ain't it, then Aerowood is no doubt right.
AWESOME pictures dieseleagle!

Yes, just the barest bit of metal can hang up the entire works. When I was reinstalling the aft subfloor pieces, I briefly had a hard time getting the shell back in position, situated correctly in alignment with the original holes in the original j-channel. Then, recalling Frank's words on this very subject, I ran my putty knife around the entire perimeter one final time, and found just the smallest bit of a rivet still stuck in a hole in the channel. Didn't seem like it would cause any problem at all, but once removed, everything settled in just fine.

Good luck!
-Marcus
__________________

utee94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2009, 08:33 AM   #226
Rivet Master
 
NorCal Bambi's Avatar
 
1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka , California
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,313
Images: 21
This is a good short section on how and why a shell alignment might have problems. Maybe an administrator can figure how to put this on the Forums list. With the title Shell realignment.
Don
__________________

__________________
NorCal Bambi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2009, 03:54 PM   #227
Rivet Master
 
nmbosa's Avatar
 
1959 26' Overlander
Nowhere , Washington
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 572
Quote:
Originally Posted by utee94 View Post
Maiden voyage? Did I miss something, like about 3 months of interior work?

Or, is this one of those "auminum tent" maiden voyages?
I don't want to steal Katie and Ryan's thunder, so I'll just say it sure aint an aluminum tent.

Truck, looks a little airy in your trailer.
__________________
Norm and Mary
blog: Captain Wilson's Overlander
nmbosa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2009, 10:51 PM   #228
3 Rivet Member
 
1958 26' Overlander
Lander , Wyoming
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 113
Truck. I too had problems getting my shell ribs to seat all the way into the C channel. It would not quite seat down far enough for everthing to line up. My solution was to make absolutely sure the frame/floor was level. Then I pulled the shell (by the ribs) down onto the floor/frame. The method I used to do this was to take a section of 2x4 and screw it to the floor near the c channel next to a rib. (make sure if your tanks are in your not over them;I almost did this!) Screw a nice strong eye hook into the 2x4. Then using a racheting tie down strap you can hook into the rib above usually via one of the electrical wire coduit holes already there. You now can rachet the shell/rib down further into the c channel. Actually I ended up doing this at several points simultaneously on both sides of the shell to bring it down. It worked well for me. Don't know if that will help your issue but maybe... Keep up the great work. I'm following with interest. Ed
__________________
n2batr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2009, 10:48 AM   #229
Rivet Master
 
truckasaurus's Avatar

 
1960 33' Custom
Saskatoon , Saskatchewan
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,182
Images: 25
porcupine shot

We've had some serious weather this weekend so only about 6 hours work on the trailer so far. We prepped the old panel and made the new one and got it cleco'd in place. (giant hail 20 miles away!) We used a Fein Multimaster with the scraping blade to get the black stuff with mesh embedded in it off, awesome tool.

Today should see it Vulkum'd and riveted.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0487.jpg
Views:	144
Size:	281.4 KB
ID:	84866   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0485.jpg
Views:	109
Size:	63.7 KB
ID:	84867  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0489.jpg
Views:	98
Size:	64.1 KB
ID:	84868  
__________________
1960 Sovereign 33' Pacific Railroad Custom
truckasaurus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2009, 11:09 AM   #230
3 Rivet Member
 
1963 24' Tradewind
Cape Coral , Florida
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 200
Great job! Its hard to keep such a large panel straight and smooth. Did just the two of you manage it?
__________________
dieseleagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2009, 11:20 AM   #231
Rivet Master
 
3Ms75Argosy's Avatar
 
1975 Argosy 26
1963 24' Tradewind
Seattle , Washington
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,341
Images: 7
Wow truck, looks great! Did you cut the panel yourself, or did you end up having it cut to measure when it shipped?
Love the kitty watching too!
Marc
__________________
3Ms75Argosy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2009, 11:26 AM   #232
Rivet Master
 
truckasaurus's Avatar

 
1960 33' Custom
Saskatoon , Saskatchewan
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,182
Images: 25
Thanks guys. Just me and the GF, it would be easier with three people but was perfectly doable with two. I had three pieces shipped, one 32' 032", one 16' 032" and one 16' 040".
__________________
1960 Sovereign 33' Pacific Railroad Custom
truckasaurus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2009, 05:44 PM   #233
Moderator
 
Kevin245's Avatar

 
Vintage Kin Owner
... , ...
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 9,390
Images: 9
Looking Good Truck.....
__________________

"You wouldn't worry so much about what others think of you if you realized how seldom they do."

Eleanor Roosevelt

Kevin245 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2009, 07:47 AM   #234
Rivet Master
 
NorCal Bambi's Avatar
 
1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka , California
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,313
Images: 21
Most impressive!
__________________
NorCal Bambi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2009, 07:42 PM   #235
Rivet Master
 
truckasaurus's Avatar

 
1960 33' Custom
Saskatoon , Saskatchewan
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,182
Images: 25
Curbside

Whilst I wait for some longer rivets to arrive and get my hands on wheel well trim I thought I'd press on. (I still haven't found good J trim, the Brunnerent stuff seems OK but the shipping is shocking; also it's occurred to me that my curbside is 0.032" plus 0.040" so I may want 3/32" not 1/16" trim especially as I'm sure the Vulkem between the two takes up some space).

Today I finished glassing over the unwanted holes in the fiberglass end caps and finished off with a few skim coats or Bondo all nicely sanded smooth.

Lastly I removed the lower door hinge and the whole door assembly to get at the side panel better. The 12' curbside is now just hanging on Clekos ready for removal, clean up and templating onto 0.040". Most of the stringers are OK, I'll replace two that took a beating at some point in the past.

I know it's probably not the best time but I'm sorely tempted to pick up either the Makita 9227C or a Dewalt variable speed 7" polisher, a couple of soft 8" buffs and some 3M marine aluminum polish just to see how the old material will clean up..... I figure with the project sitting out all winter if it's a bit shiny it'll keep my motivation up.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0506.jpg
Views:	91
Size:	57.5 KB
ID:	84969  
__________________
1960 Sovereign 33' Pacific Railroad Custom
truckasaurus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2009, 09:03 AM   #236
Rivet Master
 
NorCal Bambi's Avatar
 
1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka , California
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,313
Images: 21
Chance for a good discussion

CanoeStream has sent me a PM asking what I meant in my comment about there being great stuff in this thread. All those who have added ideas to this thread have good and varied ideas. Here is a change for another one of those great discussions. That beautiful sheet of aluminum being kept in place with all those clecos looks beautiful. However the looks can change a lot when the rivets start falling into place. If you have ever watched a person who has placed a million rivets, it looks so easy and the results are amazing. For the first timer, it can be a disaster. Rivet gun hop, great dimples in the sheet around each rivet location, loose rivets that leak, on and on. Then there is the whole discussion about what the back of the rivet should look like is it has been bucked properly. If you are a experienced aircraft mechanic this may be boring, but to the new-be it can be great knowledge. Are all of you willing to jump in with bits of rivet knowledge?
Don's ramblings.
__________________
NorCal Bambi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2009, 09:11 AM   #237
Rivet Master
 
utee94's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,636
Sure, I'm certainly interested in hearing from those who are more experienced than I am!

Here is what I will add-- it is absolutely imperative that the riveter and the bucker stay in constant communication with each other, and do things consistently each time.

For example, if you are always counting to three and THEN pulling the trigger, don't ever pull the trigger ahead of that beat. Also, if you are consistently firing one burst of riveting, don't hit it with a second burst when your bucker isn't expecting it. Communicate with your bucker and count it out again. If you DON'T do these things, then there is a chance that your bucker will pull the bucking bar back, or not apply proper pressure. This can lead to unsightly results at best (large indentations in the skin around the rivet), and at worst, you can end up firing a rivet all the way through the skin and blasting a huge hole (fortunately this did not happen to me, I did this on a scrap of test aluminum to see what would happen. Wasn't pretty).

It seems easy, but even after doing over a hundred perfect rivets, I miscommunicated one time and dimpled my skin pretty severely. Oh well, live and learn.

-Marcus
utee94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2009, 10:04 AM   #238
Rivet Master
 
truckasaurus's Avatar

 
1960 33' Custom
Saskatoon , Saskatchewan
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,182
Images: 25
Great idea Don. It can be like looking up a project in a Home Depot manual where everything looks square and plumb and then comparing it with the aftermath of a DIY disaster where every piece of lumber seems cupped and twisted. Luckily for me Airstream must have been in a budget crunch and unable to afford a piece of string to set the rivet lines straight so I know no matter how good a job I do it will still look more artisan than craftsmanlike.

At the introduction session for the A&P course I start next month the instructor showed me the sample rivets they get students to do at the start so that at the end they can see how much better they are. They looked just fine to me so I'm aware that no matter how well I do on this trailer next year I'll see every defect.

So far I'd say communication is the most important factor; like Marcus says if riveter and bucker aren't in sync it's going to end badly, (for the trailer and the combatants). We did a practice run on a mock up section of C channel and set the regulator on the gun which seems to help. Next I think it's harder to mess up when the substrate being riveted is more solid/ secure so I try and start the session off on a window frame, rib/ bow or something that isn't going to flap about. With the panel totally Clekod down I don't think it makes much difference but I've been starting in a central area and working out.

I doubt I'm doing it the correct way but once my bucker says go I'm "brapping" in a few pulses so that my bucker can call stop whilst I can hear her in between the cacophony. I'm getting a feel for the rivet squishing up now which makes timing the duration of the rivet action better.

I'd like some tips on getting Vulkem off the clekos! I have them soaking in mineral spirits and next I'm going to try WD40 but there must be a better way.

It would also seem logical for the riveter and bucker to swap roles occasionally, kind of like a 360 appraisal; I haven't tried this yet but hope to on a smaller panel.
__________________

__________________
1960 Sovereign 33' Pacific Railroad Custom
truckasaurus is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
factory new shell- 2007 Classic? boondockdad 2006 - 2010 Classic (all lengths) 18 09-04-2014 08:39 PM
How big a shell off has been done? tbrom Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 1 10-12-2006 10:45 AM
Shell on or off??? Bradjun1 Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 3 09-20-2006 12:19 AM
Shell Off vs Shell On Summary mbatm01 Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 82 01-09-2006 06:46 PM
Replacing the shell ?? William8979 Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 2 05-11-2005 09:22 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:17 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.