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Old 07-29-2009, 09:27 AM   #211
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Quick question #1. If I skin over the doorway can I just run the air nibblers around afterwards to re-create the opening then file to finish?
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Old 07-29-2009, 02:28 PM   #212
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Exhibits a thru d

Here are some shots showing the wheel well mystery. My current conclusion is that the wells were secured to the chassis maybe a couple of inches in from the corners you see butyl taped to the chassis. And that either from day 1 or over time the shell lifted them up at the these corners allowing the lip riveted to the shell panels to elevate somewhat. How does that sound? I'm not totally buying it either but that's all I've got.

On the up side I'm including a shot of my 16' x 4' panel table I made at lunchtime ready for the templating work.
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Old 07-29-2009, 02:57 PM   #213
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How about maybe the frame is bent just a bit "upwards" over the wheel wells? My '73 has the plastic wheel wells and they didn't go back in correctly either. Made the roadside outer skin look a little weird. Just a couple of random thoughts.

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Old 07-29-2009, 03:57 PM   #214
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Truck, you should talk to Ryan about this (and he might chime in as I know they are back from their maiden voyage), but from the looks of your first picture, the rib is hung up on the inside edge of the c-channel which is preventing the shell from coming all the way down. I know Katie and Ryan found several spots around their trailer where this occurred. He just snipped out the inside edge of the c-channel around the rib to let the rib come all the way down into the channel. Check out the photos at the end of this post to their blog: Time to put the lid back on the frame

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Old 07-29-2009, 04:15 PM   #215
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The only thing I can say is is that things move around. There are many factors that can contribute, how the trailer was setting when it was originally manufactured, etc.etc. The question now is is the frame straight, is there any buckles in the skin, is everything good except this one issue. If it is, redrill it, trim the excess off, and press on.

Kip
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Old 07-29-2009, 04:47 PM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmbosa View Post
Truck, you should talk to Ryan about this (and he might chime in as I know they are back from their maiden voyage...

Norm
Maiden voyage? Did I miss something, like about 3 months of interior work?

Or, is this one of those "auminum tent" maiden voyages?
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Old 07-29-2009, 04:59 PM   #217
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Quick question #1. If I skin over the doorway can I just run the air nibblers around afterwards to re-create the opening then file to finish?
This is one way of doing it. You should have no problems doing it this way.

Kip
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Old 07-29-2009, 05:09 PM   #218
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Okay here is what I see... the wheel wells previously had a thick ribbon of putty between the plywood and the wheel well. That would raise you a thick 3/16th right there. I also think if you push up on the inside of the well it will lift that line up so you can cleco and then rivet.
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Old 07-29-2009, 05:23 PM   #219
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Well, since the wheelwells are under the plywood (right?), it's a bit late to lift them up now... how about putting a bottle jack on top of the wheel, and use some wood to distribute the load, and then jack up the well to line up the rivet lines, cleco, and then you're free! The wheel wells should flex enough to make it work... no?

Is this the reason for the reskin?
Marc
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Old 07-29-2009, 05:42 PM   #220
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That is exactly what I was aiming to say. Thanks Mark for saying it better. I would think you can flex that wheel well up to where you need it.
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Old 07-29-2009, 08:02 PM   #221
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progress

I like the idea of jacking up the wheel well to mate but there just isn't the give to get it all the way. With the frame/ floor and shell straight I'm just going to have to work with what I have. I've marked the well where the panel meets it and I'll just trim to fit.

On that note I whipped off the street panel this afternoon and I'm just glad I have a lightweight mini air drill! It came off OK, all 16' of it. I had to take out just one window and 18 stringers. It's definitely going to be a two person job to get it back on though.

I'm still hunting for some non tempered J trim for the well/panel joint, I tried a link I found on Carlos's thread but it quoted me $308 shipping so maybe a phone call is in order.

So for now it's all tarp'd up until Saturday. Luckily it's a long weekend here in sunny Alberta so with the cheery assistance of the GF I hope to get street side replaced and maybe some work on the curb side.
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Old 07-29-2009, 10:28 PM   #222
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Been there done that, looking good. I would cut in the window after the skin is on.
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Old 07-29-2009, 11:58 PM   #223
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One other thought on the wheel well problem. In the second picture it may be that the wheel well is pushed back from the frame member a bit. It's hard to tell from the angle of the picture. But here is the thought. If both outside edges of the fenders were moved out away form the frame member"out riggers", that would increase the width of the fender at the frame level where it meets the skin. The top of the fender well would move down to make up for the increased distance at the bottom. I hope this makes some sense. I could make a diagram if that would be of any help. If this is the case, the only answer I can think of now is to split the fender at the top to align the holes with clecos. Next put a patch in the fender to get rid of the space. Not the greatest answer.
Don
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Old 07-30-2009, 06:42 AM   #224
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The fact that the rib isn't settling down in the channel suggests that nmbosa's suggestion is at least probable. I had a similar issue when I set my shell back on, only for me it was related to verticle alignment rather than horizontal. The holes on the shell landed about 3/8 of an inch in front of where they should have been on the curbside and behind on the street side. No big deal I thought, it just needs to be pulled forward on the left and back on the right.

So, on the left, the truck served as an anchor point for the ratchet strap. On the right I didn't have anything to attach to so I made a sky hook.

After putting more force on it than I knew it should require I started looking again for the reason it wasn't budging, with no success. Then I tried running a putty knife all the way around and, lo and behold, just behind the wheelwell on the curb side a dimple on the skin was hung up on a split from forming the belly pan wrap. It was the barest hangnail, but as soon as I freed it the shell settled right in place where it belonged.

If that ain't it, then Aerowood is no doubt right.
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