Thanks for the info Andy. I've got balanced running gear, the correct bars (800 lbs) and a suitable tv so all I need to do is address any structural shortcomings and it'll be looking good.
I quite like the idea of adding some horizontal and vertical supports; they might even aid me when installing the inner skin. The inner skin around the jalousie especially up against the front cap wasn't what I'd call craftsmanlike..
I don't have the resources to fabricate ribs/ bows like the factory ones so I guess I'll have to come up with some stringer like pieces made from 032". It shouldn't take more than a couple of hours and a few ounces of extra weight.
On a similar vein has anyone added automotive sound deadening mat to the door and the surrounding area at all? Again it would add weight but I thought I'd ask.
Last question: where can I get wheel well trim that bends? The Vintagetrailer stuff says it's tempered which seems like an added hassle. I found some here J-Bar Bottom - 1/16" but until I get a sample I can't be sure it'll work.
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preparing for the maiden voyage in 2010...
Truck, When I rebuilt my doors I used a foil faced sound deadening material on the insde of the outer door skin (its very adherent) and then used reflectix insulation in the doors. It added a little weight but gives the door less of a tin can feel. I liked the results. Ed
Thanks for the info Andy. I've got balanced running gear, the correct bars (800 lbs) and a suitable tv so all I need to do is address any structural shortcomings and it'll be looking good.
I quite like the idea of adding some horizontal and vertical supports; they might even aid me when installing the inner skin. The inner skin around the jalousie especially up against the front cap wasn't what I'd call craftsmanlike..
I don't have the resources to fabricate ribs/ bows like the factory ones so I guess I'll have to come up with some stringer like pieces made from 032". It shouldn't take more than a couple of hours and a few ounces of extra weight.
On a similar vein has anyone added automotive sound deadening mat to the door and the surrounding area at all? Again it would add weight but I thought I'd ask.
Last question: where can I get wheel well trim that bends? The Vintagetrailer stuff says it's tempered which seems like an added hassle. I found some here J-Bar Bottom - 1/16" but until I get a sample I can't be sure it'll work.
The J bar I used came from the flooring place down the street from me. Looks identical to the one linked to above. I believe it is tempered, but bends like a wet noodle when you heat it with a torch. I paid $7 (?) per 12' stick. I have a piece here if you'd like it to test out. Wear welding gloves when handling the hot trim.
Back from vacation and time to step up the project timetable.
Whilst in Seattle I collect two big cartons of aluminum that Airparts shipped for me. Another example of how great the forum members are; Ryan (r&kweber) offered to let me have the boxes sent to his shop so I could pick them up and check out his project! Thank you for helping me out, it saved me a bundle and it was very motivational to see another Airstream being reborn.
Anyhow, attached are todays shots of one end cap stripped (1 gallon of Removal). It seems to work well but it's going to take a lot of product to strip all the interior aluminum, I may just sand and prime it. I was going to cut out the overhead compartment as it's so badly aligned but instead I might keep it but repurpose the space...
I'm just glassing over the light switch cutouts and vent holes as I will cut new ones where I want them instead. I actually started repairing cracks around the window cutouts in the end cap but got a little ahead of myself. I suspect the crack is as a direct result of a damaged- repaired end cap being installed from day one. Fiberglass sure wasn't their forte!
Tomorrow I should get the second end cap stripped and glassed up and then the weekend is riveting time. I'm hoping to rivet the shell back on around the curved sections, then progress to side panel replacement the week after.
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preparing for the maiden voyage in 2010...
I'm just preparing for tomorrows riveting extravaganza and have a few questions if anyone can help.
Looking at the trim/ rub rail that covers the front and rear joint between shell and belly pan it looks like it should be buck riveted but the holes are so badly located that the rivet head will get deformed; were olympic or pop rivets used instead?
Second Q. No matter what I try the rivet holes around the steel wheel well sit about 1/2" below those in the side panel. It may not be a problem as both side panels will be replaced but I'm trying to get a handle on what the cause is?
- It looks like the chassis/ floor unit, even when jacked at the axle plates will lift the shell uniformly due the bracing. (the gap stays at close to 3/8").
- I used butyl tape between the chassis and wheel wells but only about an 1/8" thick.
When I have riveted the end sections down and attached the steel anchor plates to the bows I was planning on removing the bracing and going from there, does that sound reasonable?
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preparing for the maiden voyage in 2010...
Looking at the trim/ rub rail that covers the front and rear joint between shell and belly pan it looks like it should be buck riveted but the holes are so badly located that the rivet head will get deformed; were olympic or pop rivets used instead?
Truck, I'll defer to those with more experience reattaching the shell on your second question, but on the rub rail piece, everyone that I have seen, including mine earlier today, is held on with screws. I think that is one of the last pieces to re-install on the exterior.
Norm
PS sorry I missed you at Ryan's shop the other day. Sounds like you got a good tour of the Flying Cloud. I think they are heading out camping tonight.
I'm just preparing for tomorrows riveting extravaganza and have a few questions if anyone can help.
Looking at the trim/ rub rail that covers the front and rear joint between shell and belly pan it looks like it should be buck riveted but the holes are so badly located that the rivet head will get deformed; were olympic or pop rivets used instead?
Mine had three levels of rivets here. First level is the bellypan to c-channel rivets, aka the "blind" rivets. Second level is the exterior skin to c-channel rivets, with the bellypan sandwiched in-between. Third level is the rub rail to c-channel rivets, with the exterior shell and bellypan in-between. ALL were buck rivets, all went all the way through all materials in-between and terminated on the inside of the c-channel. Does that make sense? You'll need to use progressively longer rivets as you rivet through these layers. The rub-rail didn't line up very well with original rivet holes, in many cases I drilled new ones.
Quote:
Second Q. No matter what I try the rivet holes around the steel wheel well sit about 1/2" below those in the side panel. It may not be a problem as both side panels will be replaced but I'm trying to get a handle on what the cause is?
- It looks like the chassis/ floor unit, even when jacked at the axle plates will lift the shell uniformly due the bracing. (the gap stays at close to 3/8").
- I used butyl tape between the chassis and wheel wells but only about an 1/8" thick.
When I have riveted the end sections down and attached the steel anchor plates to the bows I was planning on removing the bracing and going from there, does that sound reasonable?
On this one, I hope somebody else can answer. I didn't remove any rivets around the wheel wells, since mine is a shell-on.
Good luck, if you're anything like me, I think you'll find the buck-riveting to be rather enjoyable.
Looking at the trim/ rub rail that covers the front and rear joint between shell and belly pan it looks like it should be buck riveted but the holes are so badly located that the rivet head will get deformed; were olympic or pop rivets used instead?
Slotted screws on my '57, Truck. Took the back one off last week and only one screw refused to come out. Started the front today and two of them are being difficult. I'll stay with the screws when it goes back together, but I'm going to change them to stainless.
Thanks for the super fast responses, I checked back through some of my old photos and did some zooming in and lo and behold mine was held on with pop rivets! It's good to know that there's no rush putting the rail back on so I'll see how it goes tomorrow. I like the idea of bucked rivets but maybe some sort of dome head stainless bolt would look cool, maybe even recessed for an allen key? (I need to strip the blue rattle can paint of the rails and take out some dents too unless anyone knows of a suitable source for replacement material).
(Norm, the next time I make the trip to Seattle I'll try and plan a bit better, especially now I know as an Alberta resident I can shop tax free, woo hoo. Unfortunately it took a 9 hour shopping spree at the premium outlet mall to become fully acquainted).
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preparing for the maiden voyage in 2010...
I'll take a stab at the remaining 50%.... did you increase the wood thickness from 5/8" to 3/4"? between that and the 1/8" barrier layer... would that raise it up?
Did your fenders mount below or on top of the wood orginally?
Marc
Mine is a 63 and the rub rails were attached with pop rivets. If you go this way get the long ones since you are going through a lot of material. As for the shell not lining up, mine didn't either, though not be half an inch. The thicker plywood definitely accounts for part of it.
Here's a picture of the reinstalled rubrail. BTW, Ford engine blue is pretty much a perfect color match.
This is a great thread. I back working on my 55 Cloud. It would be great if some of you might have time to look at my thread and make suggestions and comments. My restorations are what I call 10 foot restorations. From 10 feet or more they look great. Get closer and you are going to see stuff. 55 FC The Whole ball of wax
Also I'm looking for two windows. Front small lower by front door and the insert emergency window in the back. I have the frames it just the windows I need. All comments are always welcome.
Don
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