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Old 06-05-2009, 11:54 AM   #127
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belly pan all cleaned up and ready to fit back up. (I wish)

If only I'd thought of titanium fasteners!

Well it's cold and raining so I'm taking a break but I did get the belly pan washed down and beaten flat . Suffice to say it'll be going to the recyclers as soon as I've used it to cut the new sheets.

I'm hoping this plan works, I've got .040" for the flat sections front mid and rear, and '025" for the corners and mid sections that curve up to the shell. I'm using '040" for two reasons, 1 being that it's available off a roll so the 8' x 5' sizes pose no challenge and 2 because it should stay flat and smooth even with me man handling it. The shots show a before, my .025" cut list, rough cutting of the original to my new layout (plus ships cat Bob) and a little insulation work.

All though it seems a year or so away the tanks and heat pads will be encased in insulation all within the steel shell you currently see, so no belly pan around them.
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Old 06-05-2009, 12:05 PM   #128
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Truck,

Are the corner belly wraps mitered, or formed?

Kev
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Old 06-05-2009, 12:15 PM   #129
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The outside edges of the sheet appear cut to a curved shape then slits about 2 1/2" or maybe 3" deep are made in as relief cuts. From there I gather each "tab" is carefully bent up keeping a radius. Each tab will slightly overlap the next; in theory.

I think I'll make an exact copy, still flat but with the slits, then I'll bend up the tabs a little and go from there, I expect I'll be messing up and going to get another sheet or two but we'll see.
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Old 06-05-2009, 12:23 PM   #130
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Those tabs are almost 90 degrees to the sheet. They over lap one to the next from front to back. You want to massage it slowly into place, for it will curve in two opposite directions as you get further to the rear. The big curved slit at where the curve starts is very important and you need to copy it very carefully. The forward edge should cover the rear edge. Having no shell to fight it into place is going to make your job much easier.
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:38 PM   #131
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I ended up with 3/4" flexible conduit. It's quite tricky to bend but it went in and I have it clamped up while the epoxy sets up.

If I need power for a tongue jack it can either come from the breakaway line (like a new Airstream) or I can fish a new 12G through the conduit, maybe.

I installed some sub floor insulation but need to cut and install more tomorrow. (styrofoam SM type stuff)

As it stands I still need holes to drop the hydraulic brake line through the floor and one for propane to enter the coach and hopefully just a 1 1/2" hole for the black tank outflow to join up with the grey tank valve. All of these will be made much later on when the layout is firmed up.

Lastly a Jules Verne style shot of the unnecessarily heavy duty bolts around the perimeter. I used galvanized washers which seal with a squishy rubber layer and serrated flange nuts and the odd dab of epoxy. (about 180 or so)
Very nice work my friend
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Old 06-05-2009, 05:07 PM   #132
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...I installed some sub floor insulation but need to cut and install more tomorrow. (styrofoam SM type stuff)...
How are you attaching the styrofoam to the flooring?

Zep
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Old 06-05-2009, 06:12 PM   #133
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You might want to shave or taper the edges of the foam a bit to get the bellypan to wrap well. Great work!
Marc
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Old 06-06-2009, 10:00 AM   #134
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I used PL200 construction adhesive. The 200 is rated for this task, bonding wood and foam board. I cut the styrofoam as tight as possible to the aperture but not riding over the outriggers. Then I applied the PL in a bead around the edge but still on the upper face. They hold themselves up while setting.

I couldn't find a material or technique that I was completely happy with so decided on this mid point solution. Essentially I'm insulating small patches of the floor and not the complete area. I didn't want to creature moisture traps around the steel. I am toying with the idea of maybe bonding some Reflectix or similar to the back of the BP in some areas.

I have to decide whether to install the perimeter belly first and then the central sections or the other way around. If I do the central pieces last it will be easier to drop them if needed but it will be more likely to get water etc driven in along the seams.

Decisions, decisions. Unfortunately it's snowing this morning and 1 degree so no progress.
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Old 06-06-2009, 10:06 AM   #135
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Snowing? Really??? It might hit 100 here today. Man, you Canadians are crazy people!

I'd install the perimeter first and center sections later, for the reason you described. Water is going to get in there anyway, so just make sure you leave ways for it to exit.
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Old 06-06-2009, 10:38 AM   #136
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Real snow! granted not much but some areas here were on a heavy snowfall warning last night. It certainly keeps my mind on the project knowing that June through September is the only relatively comfortable time slot for detail work outside.

One of my favorite elements of this vintage is the way the belly pan swoops from the belt line down and back up again. I'm really hoping I get it right.
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Old 06-06-2009, 11:21 AM   #137
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One of my favorite elements of this vintage is the way the belly pan swoops from the belt line down and back up again. I'm really hoping I get it right.
You will get it no problem. You have a very good template to work from. Just copy it and you will be set.
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Old 06-06-2009, 03:36 PM   #138
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Truck, I was wondering why you chose to install the C-channel and belly pan before flooring. Was that simply because your floor will be exposed to the elements for a while or some other consideration?

By the way, it's about 60-65 and overcast here. Perfect polishing weather, but I'm stuck on yard work today.

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Old 06-06-2009, 07:20 PM   #139
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Norm, a few reasons really.
1 - The weather is crazy so I wouldn't want exposed flooring until it's sealed up.
2 - I'm undecided on the flooring material. (cork or recycled leather, I'm not sure)
3 - I would like to be able to switch out the flooring material if I feel like it in a few years and running it under cabinets etc makes this harder.
4 - Extra material under the C channel would worry me if it was squishy like cork.
5 - I'm cheap and didn't want to spend the $$$'s yet.
6 - There's some messy work still to come, especially fabricating the bathroom.

I do like the idea of installing a nice big sheet of vinyl or marmoleum it looks so clean and finished and it would certainly be easier that what I have in mind but maybe next time.

I'm driving down to Seattle next month and I hope the weather stays fine. When I drove through the Cascades last year in April I hit a snow storm and could only get up to 25 mph, I drove just over 1000 miles that day in total, it was not something to repeat.
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Old 06-06-2009, 09:47 PM   #140
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I do like the idea of installing a nice big sheet of vinyl or marmoleum it looks so clean and finished and it would certainly be easier that what I have in mind but maybe next time.
Truck.

Vinyl sheet floor covering, is not a good idea.

In time, it will crack at every seam the plywood floor has, for most part being 4 feet.

Square tile is the best answer, since you can seam it at the floor seams.

Or, of course, carpeting.

Andy
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