Shell lift off question

[sawdawg1]

I'm about to lift of the shell on a 1968 International 31 footer and have a procedure question? As I see it there are two possible methods and I don't know which is better.
1. Remove the bolts that hold the shell to the floor and lift off the body with the c channel attached to the shell.
2. Drill out the rivets that attach the shell to the c channel and lift off the shell with the c channel still attached to the floor.

or does it really matter which way I do it?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by sawdawg1

I'm about to lift of the shell on a 1968 International 31 footer and have a procedure question? As I see it there are two possible methods and I don't know which is better.
1. Remove the bolts that hold the shell to the floor and lift off the body with the c channel attached to the shell.
2. Drill out the rivets that attach the shell to the c channel and lift off the shell with the c channel still attached to the floor.

or does it really matter which way I do it?

It depend why your taking the shell off.

If it's to replace the floor, the leave the "C" channel on the shell.

But, make very accurate measurements as to where the "C" must be so that the fit is correct.

Also, Airstream did not make a 31 foot trailer in 1968.

Andy

[kaneable]

Originally Posted by sawdawg1

I'm about to lift of the shell on a 1968 International 31 footer and have a procedure question? As I see it there are two possible methods and I don't know which is better.
1. Remove the bolts that hold the shell to the floor and lift off the body with the c channel attached to the shell.
2. Drill out the rivets that attach the shell to the c channel and lift off the shell with the c channel still attached to the floor.

or does it really matter which way I do it?

I would agree with Andy to leave the c-channel in place attached to the shell. The channel does provide some support. More importantly though I thought it was important to brace the shell.

I ran several 2x4 cross braces. Those were supported by 2x4 that ran from front to back and placed on top of the cross-bracing 2x4. This was all done before the shell was removed from the floor to make sure dimensions were retained.

[BradS]

If the C channel is left attached to the body how do you tuck the belly pan between the outer shell and the C channel?

[sawdawg1]

I was wromg about the length of the trailer, it measures 27 feet on the inside so it must be a 30 footer not 31. I need to replace the floor and parts of the frame. The unit came from a wet part of Washington state and leaked a bit. I've removed the belly pan and the bannana wraps so far and have new axles from Inland Rv I just need to clear up my shop from my car projects.

[marzboy]

Originally Posted by sawdawg1

I was wromg about the length of the trailer, it measures 27 feet on the inside so it must be a 30 footer not 31. I need to replace the floor and parts of the frame. The unit came from a wet part of Washington state and leaked a bit. I've removed the belly pan and the bannana wraps so far and have new axles from Inland Rv I just need to clear up my shop from my car projects.

As Andy said try to keep the U channel on the shell. Most of mine was pretty much destroyed so it had to be replaced. Also the rear floor and support was all but gone. Take pictures and measure everything. Especially where the ribs meet the outriggers. I fabricated some L brackets out of aluminum angle and stainless steel bolts.

[Aktundra]

I Just released the shell of a 1963 Bambi (16 ft so MUCH smaller that your project) after yearend.

But I would not depend on the C channel to maintain the dimensions of the shell. It seems to flimsy to be much of a structural aid

I would release everything (rivits, bolts) you can see and let the C channel go with whatever side it wants. Because after this much work you will not want to reuse questionable sections, and a good portion will need to be replaced anyway.