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clancy_boy · 08-21-2011, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ND10CentCan

a naughty decal on the back window.

Got pics of the sticker, could have been a collectors item and worth millions. Just saying........ you never know....... I'm not into that sorta stuff but I know a friend of a friend who has this cousin on his step mothers side with a roomate who has a son who might be.....

OK - moving on now.......

Lance M · 08-21-2011, 07:23 PM

Sandy,
Since you have all new metal, I'd recommend an automotive epoxy primer and a good top coat like Eastwood Ultra Chassis Black or some other type of automotive frame top coat. Maybe a POR-15 product. Lots of options with new metal. It is important to make sure the new metal is cleaned and degreased before priming.

ND10CentCan · 08-21-2011, 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top

Sandy,
Since you have all new metal, I'd recommend an automotive epoxy primer and a good top coat like Eastwood Ultra Chassis Black or some other type of automotive frame top coat. Maybe a POR-15 product. Lots of options with new metal. It is important to make sure the new metal is cleaned and degreased before priming.

Thanks Top,
Do you find the paint online or do you find it locally? I know I will be painting it so I want to get enough to do two coats on it all. I would want it to be applied by a brush and not a sprayer. I don't work quickly but I do it well...or as best I can anyway.

Does the color matter or can we go with plain old black? Color coordinate with the black on the axles? Do you have to use the same line of products for the primer and the top coat or can you interchange them?

As you can see, I need lots of help to steer me in the right direction.
Sandy

ND10CentCan · 08-21-2011, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clancy_boy

Got pics of the sticker, could have been a collectors item and worth millions. Just saying........ you never know....... I'm not into that sorta stuff but I know a friend of a friend who has this cousin on his step mothers side with a roomate who has a son who might be.....

OK - moving on now.......

Shoot and I just used a razor to scrape it off the bathroom window too.

Just my luck it was worth millions and I threw it away. I still have all the broken plastic letters that spell MICHIGAN though if anyone is interested. Also have "10 Cent deposit on this can" in blue vinyl repaired in places with black electrician's tape if anyone wants to piece it back together. Good news is that the deposit statement was on both sides of the trailer so double the fun there.

Half of the US is available now too except I am still stuck with Louisiana at this point until I can get it completely off. Stubborn little state that it is. I did notice that the only states the trailer didn't make it to was Oregon, Washington, and Alaska. I think I should throw in Hawaii as a safe bet too.

Sandy

clancy_boy · 08-21-2011, 10:20 PM

Hard to wash off Louisiana, been trying for years..... The stink is horrible.

ND10CentCan · 08-22-2011, 09:29 PM

Tonight my husband's welding instructor came out to help and advise him on some big questions like the hitch. He did say DOT would want someone certified to put the hitch on but as long as you use the correct welding method, the right materials, and follow the welding process, you won't have problems. So here we go on that.

He has been a big help to us and he doesn't want anything for his time. I am wondering what to get him that he might like such as a gift card to a local restaurant or to another store he might utilize such as Menards or something. He is a generous person to come and crawl around the floor and show my husband different approaches to welding.

Made the critical mistake of going and visting with Barry over this and that, and I took up too much time. Dearest husband gave me the neck slashing sign and I got the message so I skeddadled out of there. I am not sure if the door to the Rookery will now be locked or not.

signed: SA in the doghouse at least for tonight

Darkspeed · 08-22-2011, 10:06 PM

Every welder needs one of these ... less than 100$ good gift

http://weldingsupply.securesites.com...S2-80||1|206||

ND10CentCan · 08-23-2011, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkspeed

Every welder needs one of these ... less than 100$ good gift

Weldingsupply.com / StrongHand / MS2-80

Thanks for the tip. I am going to nonchalantly quiz him on what he really likes...just for starters. I am going to show these to my husband too and see if he thinks it is something Barry might like. Good idea!
Sandy

ND10CentCan · 08-23-2011, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top

Sandy,
Since you have all new metal, I'd recommend an automotive epoxy primer and a good top coat like Eastwood Ultra Chassis Black or some other type of automotive frame top coat. Maybe a POR-15 product. Lots of options with new metal. It is important to make sure the new metal is cleaned and degreased before priming.

Because I am rather clueless about this process, can I use these products with a brush or do I have to invest in a sprayer? I would prefer to brush it on and avoid all the spraying if possible.

I have a coupon for some % off on Eastgate for today but it didn't say on the Chassis Black if I could use a brush and it didn't say I would need a primer. I think they might be assuming everyone knows what each one needs and application methods when that is certainly not true for me. Do you happen to know?
Sandy

Lance M · 08-23-2011, 06:30 PM

Sandy,
You sure can brush on the Eastwood products. That is what I do with very good results.

Lance M · 08-23-2011, 06:53 PM

From the Eastwood extreme chassis black can:
Directions
1. Surface must be clean and dry before painting. Use Eastwood PRE painting prep to remove residual grease and oil. Can be used on bare metal or over primer. For increased durability, prime with Extreme Chassis Black primer quart (11194ZP), wait 15 minutes to one hour and topcoat with Extreme Chassis Black. Do not use over self-etching primers. Test for compatibility if not using over Extreme Chassis Black primer. For best results, use when can and room temperature are between 70-90F at 50% or less humidity.
2. Stir for at least one minute before use.
3. For spray-on application: several light coats give a better finish than one heavy coat. If desired, further thin with toluol or xylol. Apply only enough paint to achieve full hiding. For faster cure, apply a maximum of two coats of primer and two coats of Extreme chassis black. Allow 24 hours between coats.
4. Finished article should be allowed to dry 48-72 hours before being handled.

Darkspeed · 08-23-2011, 06:55 PM

It is much better to brush on. If you have any surface rust / powdery residue it will disturb this into the paint when brushed. If sprayed the paint can float on this layer of contamination and peel off in sheets at a later date. Brush brush brush!

ND10CentCan · 08-23-2011, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top

Sandy,
You sure can brush on the Eastwood products. That is what I do with very good results.

Thanks for that quick reply. Do I have to use a primer beforehand or can I just do the paint?
Sandy

Lance M · 08-23-2011, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top

From the Eastwood extreme chassis black can:
Directions
1. Surface must be clean and dry before painting. Use Eastwood PRE painting prep to remove residual grease and oil. Can be used on bare metal or over primer. For increased durability, prime with Extreme Chassis Black primer quart (11194ZP), wait 15 minutes to one hour and topcoat with Extreme Chassis Black. Do not use over self-etching primers. Test for compatibility if not using over Extreme Chassis Black primer. For best results, use when can and room temperature are between 70-90F at 50% or less humidity.
2. Stir for at least one minute before use.
3. For spray-on application: several light coats give a better finish than one heavy coat. If desired, further thin with toluol or xylol. Apply only enough paint to achieve full hiding. For faster cure, apply a maximum of two coats of primer and two coats of Extreme chassis black. Allow 24 hours between coats.
4. Finished article should be allowed to dry 48-72 hours before being handled.

Sandy,
It's your choice to use a primer or not. I always do.

ND10CentCan · 08-23-2011, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top

Sandy,
It's your choice to use a primer or not. I always do.

That is exactly the info I was looking for Top. Now I can order my stuff and be ready to paint when the man in charge finishes the welding and attaching the axles. Thanks so much for your help. I appreciate the quick service!
Sandy

clancy_boy · 08-23-2011, 09:06 PM

Paint under the area where the axles mount too. Don't worry so much about the paint then welding - you can always re-coat the area. There will always be finishing touches to the welding/paint process - just keep it up whenever the finish gets desturbed. I wouuldn't pass on the primer - you only get that kind of access to the frame once - primer first is a good step.

Good Luck,
Mike

ND10CentCan · 08-23-2011, 09:20 PM

Just ordered the primer, paint, and degreaser/cleaner for the frame. Thanks to Top for helping me along in the process.

! No one can accuse me of not having faith that we won't have a frame to work on when I order the paint to get it painted. Hopefully the products will work as the website said they will and I can put them on without a problem. If not, plan B.

I am still working on removing decals and I got some 3M Adhesive Remover yesterday at the local auto supply store. It worked well to remove the remaining adhesive on the decals that I have gotten off to date. I have yet to try it on Louisiana but hopefully it disappears like magic. No offense to Louisiana intended. It was hard to melt off North Dakota too but had to be done. The rest of the US should be disappearing within a week or so when I get a chance to go out with my steam iron again.

Husband welded on the frame when he got home and it is moving along. He got a heavier steel to beef up the frame and it looks really sturdy. We might be inadvertantly be building the next tank but we want it to hold up and not have any rear sag or separation. I am excited to get to the point I can paint the frame. Another yippee to that!

I am back to work full time again and have class most Saturday and Sundays for the next couple of months so I won't have a lot of free time. When I get away from work, homework, and other responsibiities, I will be painting the frame and getting ready for the next step on the Albatross. Double Yippee! And to think I am so excited for painting a frame, watching the axles go on, and just making progress.
Sandy

ND10CentCan · 08-24-2011, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clancy_boy

Paint under the area where the axles mount too. Don't worry so much about the paint then welding - you can always re-coat the area. There will always be finishing touches to the welding/paint process - just keep it up whenever the finish gets desturbed. I wouuldn't pass on the primer - you only get that kind of access to the frame once - primer first is a good step.

Good Luck,
Mike

Thanks Mike,
I did order the primer and will be paying attention to getting the paint on well and with my husband's natural tendencies to try to do things pretty close to flawlessly, I have faith the welding will be good. He is also going to have the welding instructor come and check things out before we paint. Things are starting to get interesting on the trailer.
Sandy

Lance M · 08-24-2011, 08:18 PM

Some interesting pictures would be nice

ND10CentCan · 08-24-2011, 08:18 PM

Next question:
My husband has been using Hobart wire in his welder and has gone through a fair amount of it. Does it matter if he goes to something not made by Hobart or should he stick to the one brand only? Does anyone know if there are differences in quality between the name brands and the more generic brands? Thanks for your help. More questions to follow...guaranteed.
Sandy