Securing shell to frame?

[thinktankair]

I looked at the process I am using to repair a section of floor and I want to make sure I am safe. Here is what I have at this point. Floor secured to the frame - check, C channel secured to the floor - check. I am now reading about securing the shell to the frame through the outriggers. Did I miss a step with securing the shell to the outriggers (I only have one outrigger on both sides)? What is that? Every part of the shell I accessed had a C channel attached to it and I attached it to the floor. If I did miss that what is the process for securing the shell to the outriggers and/or securing the shell to the frame?

[Belegedhel]

In general, the shell rivets to the C-channel and the C-channel is attached to both the floor and the frame. You may find wood screws going down through the C-channel into the floor every so often, but the really important items would be the elevator bolts that come up through the end of an outrigger (or the frame cross members in the case of the front and rear of the trailer) through the floor, and through the C-channel. It is hard to imagine that you only have one outrigger on each side. How big of a section of floor did you replace, and did you drop the bellypan in the process?

good luck!

[Byams55FlyCl]

Glad that you are asking for help! Lots of people can help here.
I've been trying to document the process of our 1955 Flying Cloud restoration.
If it helps, photos of the floor to frame start here: http://byams55flyingcloud.blogspot.c...-to-frame.html

[thinktankair]

I'm sorry, I meant only one outrigger in the area I am repairing. I have plenty of outriggers everywhere else! I'm doing about a three food section at the back of the trailer. So - I'm good but I need a few bolts/screws through the C channel at the end of the outriggers and where the end of the frame 90 degrees under the C channel. I did this with the belly pan on. I could drop the belly pan in those areas to bolt/screw something. How to I attach the C Channel to the outriggers and the 90 degree in the frame?

[putback]

I've done only pre 1966. The bolts went up from bottom in this order. Washer- outrigger-plywood floor-C channel-washer-nut. I use stainless washers between C-channel and nut. With out exception the outer ends of the outriggers were/are bolted through the floor/channel. What does surprise me is how many body bows stop short of the floor without the small angle steel to secure the bow to the floor. Just my experience with the original design.

[Aviator]

I used grade 8 bolts where the "C", floor, outrigger sandwich met, and elevator bolts with washer and nut where there wasn't an outrigger

[thinktankair]

You all are great! So I did miss something and I want to fix it! I am going to drop the belly pan so I can get to the outrigger. I will drill a hole down through the C channel and outriggers from inside the trailer. Then I will bolt from below using the method putback used. On the other bolts I also put loctite. So ... I have a place at the back of the trailer with a 90 degree where the end of the frame and the crossmember meet that goes under the C channel . I need to do the same thing there too, right?

[putback]

Always a good idea to "unzip" the belly pan own the center line when you are as deep into the structure as you are. Easier to work and allows for a thorough inspection. But there is a cheat to do one outrigger bolt. A long 1/8th inch [aprox] bit, bore down from top and through the belly pan [ouch!]. Enlarge the belly pan hole to 1/2 inch [ish]. Bore up through rigger/floor/channel using 1/8 hole for a guide. Now you can use a socket & extension to install the new bolt. Buy or make a plug for the belly pan hole. IF I understand you dilemma in the back. The ones I've done had a small tab welded to the frame main rail for that bolted connection. I've seen it written many times, no holes in the main frame rails. Right or wrong I've never seen a bolt hole in one. All in the X members and outriggers.

[thinktankair]

Colin let me know there is not a rear tie down on a 1961 Bambi, but there are the bolts on the outriggers on all years... so here I go!

[thinktankair]

Got the outrigger bolts installed. Oh the learning curve!

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by thinktankair

Colin let me know there is not a rear tie down on a 1961 Bambi, but there are the bolts on the outriggers on all years... so here I go!

Adding a rear tie down, would enhance the shell to chassis strength.

As long as you have everything apart, now would be a good time.

Andy

[merrypaws]

If you don't mind me piggy backing on this thread...

I am going through the same issue with replacing the front floor but need to attach the c channel to the frame. From the 8,000 other threads I looked through some people say you can replace the floor without dropping the belly pan. But how then do you get the c channel bolted to the frame other than drilling holes in the belly pan as mentioned above? Is that the only way?

I don't have the means to drop the belly pan/banana trim and drilling holes in the edges worries me. I have 6 bolts coming up around the front curve in the front 4 feet of my 76 tradewind. Thats a lot of big holes in the pan. Can I notch my new plywood around those bolts and leave them in place while sliding it in? Any ideas to help me get this done easily but securely...

The front section before reveal


One of the bolts on the left curve


Bolt with big plate in center section

[Colin H]

Originally Posted by merrypaws

If you don't mind me piggy backing on this thread...

I am going through the same issue with replacing the front floor but need to attach the c channel to the frame. From the 8,000 other threads I looked through some people say you can replace the floor without dropping the belly pan. But how then do you get the c channel bolted to the frame other than drilling holes in the belly pan as mentioned above? Is that the only way?

I don't have the means to drop the belly pan/banana trim and drilling holes in the edges worries me. I have 6 bolts coming up around the front curve in the front 4 feet of my 76 tradewind. Thats a lot of big holes in the pan. Can I notch my new plywood around those bolts and leave them in place while sliding it in? Any ideas to help me get this done easily but securely...

The front section before reveal
Attachment 209279

One of the bolts on the left curve
Attachment 209280

Bolt with big plate in center section
Attachment 209281

Do not cut slots in the wood & fudge the plywood in around the existing rusty bolt. The bellypan is not structural, the floor & bolts are.
Colin

[Colin H]

Originally Posted by thinktankair

Colin let me know there is not a rear tie down on a 1961 Bambi, but there are the bolts on the outriggers on all years... so here I go!

Correct, there was no rear hold down plate in your trailer, or any Airstream in the 50's or 60's. They started putting them in during the 70's, & as far as I've seen, only caused problems, not solved them. We have had to remove these plates many times, while replacing the lower portion of the rear center skin panel due to galvanic corrosion.
Colin

[thinktankair]

So that is why I see people cutting slots in the wood? I wondered why I saw that in some pictures. Colin is so right about not cutting slots in the floor. The other thing I learned the hard way is you should use the largest pieces of wood possible and use cleats. So, having just gone through this, and I am a true amateur (but I have built houses), the holes in the belly pan are not bad. I am going to use metal plugs in the belly pan holes. It is optimal to drop the belly pan but I couldn't because of my location.

[putback]

Merrypaws there are some ways to cheat. With the bad floor section out you can find a strategic spot in the belly pan near center and cut a hole to allow hand/arm access to the bottom of the outriggers & Xmembers, install bolts and patch pan. If your belly pan is two sheets with the seam lengthwise down the ctr line you should be able to drill out the rivets out to the parimeter with out disturbing the banana raps or beltline. Let the two sections down and have access to the whole underneath. Pull it up on ramps first, you need a couple feet of clearance to allow the sections down far enough for you to get between them and reach to the edges to work.