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Old 11-09-2005, 08:19 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87MH
I had enough carpet left over from the cockpit areas to make three runners - serging ran about a buck a foot.

The three runners pretty much fill the area between the rear bed and cockpit riser.

When dirty, just roll them up, take them outside, and beat the dirt out of them.

Works for me.....
Thanks for the couch, it is always envied when we camp.

With all the past rain, the flooring was quite damp at times, oddly enough we never noticed it was at all slick. We keep an runner un the hall leading to the bath.
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Old 11-13-2005, 07:19 PM   #44
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It Depends...

Quote:
Originally Posted by deauxrite
Hello all. Very interesting thread. Do all of the fixtures need to be removed (couch, beds etc.) before the laminate is installed? If so, how big is that part of the operation?

Jerry

Jerry, this depends on what type of renovations you are doing with your AS. In our case we put the pergo around and behind all of the items versus removing everything. But that's your choice.

Mitch
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Old 11-13-2005, 09:42 PM   #45
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Pergo!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by balrgn
We have had Purgo installed for one full camping season now (in 2 of the 3) That big rain weekend we had recently, there was a pretty good leak @ the antenna, no damage

It came out great, and shows no sign of wear!
I installed Pergo in our downstairs basement. About two weeks after it was installed, the brick wall started to leak a waterfall, literally, of water after a 4 day non-stop rain storm. After cleaning up 1.5 inches of water (really! big mess), the floor showed no damage. Still hasn't after 3 years. And we laid it right on top of concrete, which has moisture always coming up from the earth below.

Fortunately, when we installed the Pergo, we followed the advice of a friendly floor contractor. He told us that Pergo is pretty much water impervious from below and above. The weakness is at the edges. As long as you properly seal/caulk the edges where you cut, you can fully water proof your floor. That's what we had done, and our floor was water proof.

BTW, we installed the floor which included the pre-installed blue padding and soundproofing. The floor is quiet, cushiony, and I highly recommend it.
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Old 11-13-2005, 10:57 PM   #46
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I guess I should respond to your responses

Well... I still haven't put in my pergo. I got side tracked into pruning a pine forest, blazing a trail, building a waterfall, and clearing a meadow. Now
the Argosy has a wonderful campsite.

Fact is.......I am still too chicken to put the pergo down after my stinky milk,
and water pump disasters.

Anyway.... Pergo is a floating floor. I think that water or milk or beer is going to get under it sooner or later. I am more worried about the subflooring, than the pergo. But I am going to put the pergo in and I'll rip it out if it gives me trouble. Thanks for the brain storming.
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Old 11-14-2005, 12:01 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mandolindave
Anyway.... Pergo is a floating floor. I think that water or milk or beer is going to get under it sooner or later. I am more worried about the subflooring, than the pergo.
Yes, depending on the amt of sq feet you install, you'll need anywhere from 1/8" float to 1/4" float at the edges. It is exactly that edge where I caulked, using the Pergo brand caulking in the color that matched my floor. As long as you properly caulk all the edges, you shouldn't have to worry about the milk, water, or other liquids getting down to the subfloor.
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Old 11-14-2005, 07:49 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarmimi
Yes, depending on the amt of sq feet you install, you'll need anywhere from 1/8" float to 1/4" float at the edges. It is exactly that edge where I caulked, using the Pergo brand caulking in the color that matched my floor. As long as you properly caulk all the edges, you shouldn't have to worry about the milk, water, or other liquids getting down to the subfloor.
What did you use to trim around the the edges, if anything?

-Tracey
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Old 11-14-2005, 10:08 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squrlgurl
What did you use to trim around the the edges, if anything?
Tracey -

We used the Pergo brand baseboards that matched our floor. Make sure you properly miter cut the corners and any runs longer than the standard 8 ft length. The baseboards are about 3/4" thick and covered the caulked edges nicely, as well as gave the floor the float it needed.
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Old 11-14-2005, 10:50 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squrlgurl
What did you use to trim around the the edges, if anything?

-Tracey
In my old trailer I used red oak quarter round for the trim. Here's a link to a picture of the finished floor before carpet was laid up to the threshold:

http://www.airforums.com/forum...2&d=1090206514
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Old 11-15-2005, 10:47 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barkingspider
In my old trailer I used red oak quarter round for the trim.
Yes, a quarter round is more appropriate for the A/S, as a 3" tall baseboard won't sit well on the curved walls. If you want the trim to "disappear" a little more, instead of using a round, use a cove. Basically, instead of the shape of the wood trim being convex, it is concave. I used the cove in a home remodel and I liked it much more than the rounds. They come in various sizes, but you'd probably only need a 1/2" or 3/4" if you put pergo in the A/S.
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Old 11-15-2005, 11:16 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarmimi
Yes, a quarter round is more appropriate for the A/S, as a 3" tall baseboard won't sit well on the curved walls. If you want the trim to "disappear" a little more, instead of using a round, use a cove. Basically, instead of the shape of the wood trim being convex, it is concave. I used the cove in a home remodel and I liked it much more than the rounds. They come in various sizes, but you'd probably only need a 1/2" or 3/4" if you put pergo in the A/S.
I have tried a few of types, plastic, the Pergo and wood. All fit well but are a bear to fasten down
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Old 11-15-2005, 11:52 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by balrgn
I have tried a few of types, plastic, the Pergo and wood. All fit well but are a bear to fasten down
In the new International CCD models, A/S uses an aluminum strip about 1/2" x 1/4" and lays it down flat as the trim. They screw it down to the floor about every 6-8 inches, and it seems to work well for to finish off the edge trim, stays put, and seems easy to fasten down. It works well in the CCD model as the walls are aluminum and not lined. Don't know how well that would look in the more traditional looking trailer. Maybe you could pre-paint a metal trim in a color that matches the floor or wall? Just a thought.
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