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Old 08-21-2003, 10:03 PM   #29
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Clamshell method

I am new to the forum but have had Airstreams for 20 years and feel a little stupid asking this question. What is the "Clamshell" method of floor replacement?
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Old 08-22-2003, 08:40 AM   #30
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Re: Clamshell method

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Originally posted by glh101282
I am new to the forum but have had Airstreams for 20 years and feel a little stupid asking this question. What is the "Clamshell" method of floor replacement?
Take the trailer apart at the end put some weight on the bumper to cause the frame to dor from the body and open like a "Clam shell" a couple inches so you slide the ply wood deck in and out. Only works up to the first rib (where the curved front of back meets the vertical sides ). At the first rib the U channel (the botm peice of the shell that is bolted to the plywood) changes shape and wraps under the plywood. It would be very difficult to slid the wood in that far.
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Old 09-16-2003, 07:15 AM   #31
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flooring options

I'm in the process of gutting my 64 Safari in preparation to replace the floor. So I've been looking into various options for flooring as well as advice on the best way to lift off the body.

I have decided that weather I use Marine Plywood or some kind of 3/4 plastic that it would be a good idea to drill 1/2 to 1 inch holes about every 18 - 24 inches around the outside edge where the floor meets the wall for ventilation and to allow condenced moisture from the walls to have some place to drain. I've been speaking with a few people who did this and say that it works well as there is very little "upsplash" due to the bellypan.

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Old 09-16-2003, 08:26 AM   #32
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Re: flooring options

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Originally posted by badcam safari
I'm in the process of gutting my 64 Safari in preparation to replace the floor. So I've been looking into various options for flooring as well as advice on the best way to lift off the body.

I have decided that weather I use Marine Plywood or some kind of 3/4 plastic that it would be a good idea to drill 1/2 to 1 inch holes about every 18 - 24 inches around the outside edge where the floor meets the wall for ventilation and to allow condenced moisture from the walls to have some place to drain. I've been speaking with a few people who did this and say that it works well as there is very little "upsplash" due to the bellypan.

Berta
Berta:

There is several of us in the middle of doing the same. I made a post that we are contributing too. The goal of the post is to get a step by step to the process to refer people to when they have questions. The second goal is to show what results we are having with different products and attempts to prevent future damage.

Please join in with your progress.

http://www.airforums.com/forum...&threadid=6554
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Old 09-16-2003, 08:57 AM   #33
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Flooring

That's a great idea-drainage holes! When I took my inside skin off I found the vent pipe from the rear toilet was "un-connected" at the middle. Probably explains the floor rot forward of the shower. Drainage holes might mitigate that problem. I also had what may have been a condensation problem where the refrigerator vented through the wall.
I'm thinking about using marine plywood for the front and back, with regular plywood in the middle. Although if plywood prices keep skyrocketing I may try aluminum honeycomb (just kidding .
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Old 09-16-2003, 02:38 PM   #34
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Just wait a week or so, the "slightly used" plywood market wil be flooded!
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Old 09-16-2003, 06:24 PM   #35
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Plywood

By flooded, did you mean figuratively or literally? HaHa.
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Old 09-16-2003, 09:01 PM   #36
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Damn these Airstreams You would have thought they would have built them to last at least a hundred years or so, just like they do the ah, um........?????
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Old 09-16-2003, 09:55 PM   #37
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Marine Plywood

Hey don't buy marine ply. You would pay a lot of money for voidless plywood. Buy OSB instead like the factory did on on 1985. If you want to protect the floor from rot, do like the wooden boat builders. Coat both sides with Epoxie to seal the wood. They build boats out of lumber yard plywood but encapsulate it in epoxy then a good latex house paint.

With OSB I would consider a couple of coats of exterior latex (100% acrilic) primer and a coat or two of latex porch floor paint. Especially the cut edges. The OSB floor material I use on my houses can stand up to a lot of water without causing problems! Also the tounge and groove edges, if glued with constrution adhesive, turn the floor into a single membrane, structurally.
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Old 09-16-2003, 10:23 PM   #38
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Re: Marine Plywood

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Originally posted by rcmenz
Hey don't buy marine ply. You would pay a lot of money for voidless plywood. Buy OSB instead like the factory did on on 1985. If you want to protect the floor from rot, do like the wooden boat builders. Coat both sides with Epoxie to seal the wood. They build boats out of lumber yard plywood but encapsulate it in epoxy then a good latex house paint.

With OSB I would consider a couple of coats of exterior latex (100% acrilic) primer and a coat or two of latex porch floor paint. Especially the cut edges. The OSB floor material I use on my houses can stand up to a lot of water without causing problems! Also the tounge and groove edges, if glued with constrution adhesive, turn the floor into a single membrane, structurally.
Actually I have thought about the tounge and groove. I was thinking about taking my router and putting a 1/4 inch deep groove1/8 high and then using a strip of 1/2 inch wide 1/8 inch thick aluminum to join them.

Need to go get my ply Saturday. Going to Plymart. I'll see what other voidless plywood they have.
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Old 09-16-2003, 10:31 PM   #39
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Floor

Thanks for the advice. I'm waiting on a quote from M. C. Gill on Aramid fiber honeycomb flooring (as used in aircraft). Weighs 9lb/cuft, saves about 200lbs. Don't know the cost, probably prohibitive.
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