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Old 11-27-2005, 02:49 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uucal
I just went to InlandRV web site. I did not see a wheel balancer.
It's in the article section. http://www.inlandrv.com/articles/wheel-balancing/
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Old 11-27-2005, 09:41 PM   #114
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Smile Inland balancer

Thanks for your reply. I must confess to going back later to the site after seeing another ref. to the articles. It looks pretty impressive, but not sure if my 2003 model needs this much attention. But after reading comments about checking wheel balance only maybe I should hook up and get them checked before heading out in January for warmer climes
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Old 11-28-2005, 10:57 AM   #115
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Inland Andy, Thanks again for the good info.

It seems part of my problem is what I am calling things. The term "elephant ears" apparently refers to the "cut outs" used in the repair to re-attach the shell to the frame in the rear area around the trunk door.

I suppose I have misunderstood that there was some type of kit available to beef up the steel frame itself aft of the axles.

This portion of the frame (aft of the axles) is the weakest part of the frame. I have the floor completely removed from mine and am in the process of repairing the frame (sandblasting and POR-15 all over). If you reach up and "shake" the trailer (by pushing or pulling on a frame member or such), the frame and shell forward of the rear axle remains steady. Aft of the axles, the whole assembly (shell & frame) wiggles back and forth, as if it were unstable.

I guess I'm looking for a way to make the rear of the trailer more rigid; a way to eleminate or at least reduce the amount of movement on the rear of the coach.

Again, thanks for the help.

Jim
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Old 11-28-2005, 04:28 PM   #116
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Jim & Susan.

Your correct, about the elephant ear patch.

Beefing up the frame, is not a good idea. First of all, it will add weight to the trailer, rearward of the axle. BAD idea, since that will also reduced the tongue weight.

What you can do, it simple and easy, plus cheap!!!

Remember the basic!!!!

The frame DOES NOT hold up the shell. Instead, "the shell holds up the frame".

Increase the number of bolts in the rear floor channel, at least double, if not triple. Remember to use steel plates at the top of the channel, underneath each bolt, to better redistribute weight. If the original floor channel was held in place with csrews, then replace all of them with 1/4 inch bolts, washers and lock washers.

Add additional rivets to the interior rear quarter panels, 3/16" preferred, especially at the bottom.

Remove the rear rub rail. Add additional 3/16 rivets from the front of the rear quarter panel at the bottom, through the rear plate, and then through the bottom of the other rear quarter panel.

Add the additional gusset outward of the frame as well.

Use plenty of rivets, such as every 3 inches.

That operation, adds considerable strength to the rear shell, which takes care of the problem for you, without adding any appreciable weight, or changing the tongue weight.

Easy enough?

Andy
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Old 11-29-2005, 07:49 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
...Increase the number of bolts in the rear floor channel, at least double, if not triple. Remember to use steel plates at the top of the channel, underneath each bolt, to better redistribute weight. If the original floor channel was held in place with csrews, then replace all of them with 1/4 inch bolts, washers and lock washers...

Andy
Andy,

I am in the process of replacing the floor in my 1954 Double Door Liner. How far apart would you place the 1/4" bolts?

I am considering fender washers on top above the channel and steel plates underneath the floor to prevent any pull through of the bolts. Any comments?

Bill
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Old 11-30-2005, 10:28 AM   #118
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Bill.

That's almost an "over kill".

Flush self tapping screws have worked for over 50 years.

Every 6 inches would be outstanding.

Andy
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Old 12-06-2005, 12:02 PM   #119
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how well are disk brakes ballanced?

I'm currently looking at a 31' with Disk brakes.
I'm thinking the disks would likely to be more ballanced than the drums, seeing as how the entire spinning part is machined.
Any thoughts on this?
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Old 12-06-2005, 05:13 PM   #120
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Old style disk brakes were terrible to maintain and not reliable. No repair parts currently available. I have a set I took of my 77. Final straw caliper holding frames welds cracked. I have used Kelsy Hayes and Dexter electrics since I took the disks off. Do not know about the new ones.
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Old 12-06-2005, 06:52 PM   #121
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Disk brakes vs drums

Maybe there is a recent or newer engineering mechanical graduate out there with better answers, but my dim memory of mechanics from the late 40's relate to the moment of inertia and angular momentum. These two things are related to the distribution of mass in an object, how far it rotates from the center of rotation. All things being equal, there should be not much choice between either type except for such intangibles as ease of servicing pads vs shoes, etc.

High performance sports cars use disks because they can direct more cooling airflow over the parts, cross drill holes to increase cooling effect, etc. But that should be a minor consideration for a travel trailer.
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Old 12-29-2005, 07:30 PM   #122
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For some reason when I click on the new kid64's link in the text I go to a "commercial" site that apparently is not linked to you. Please advise.

dale
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Old 12-29-2005, 07:57 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightdi
Old style disk brakes were terrible to maintain and not reliable. No repair parts currently available. I have a set I took of my 77. Final straw caliper holding frames welds cracked. I have used Kelsy Hayes and Dexter electrics since I took the disks off. Do not know about the new ones.
Funny, I had a 31' Excella 500 with the disc brakes and never had a lick of trouble with them. They were always dependable and would stop the trailer and it's TV, a 2500hd, with trailer brakes alone. I'd take the disc over electric drum any day of the week. How do I know? I have a 25' Sovereign with electric drum and it won't stop near as fast as the disc shod trailer.
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Old 09-27-2006, 08:20 PM   #124
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I know this is an old thread, but I am the victim of rear end sag.

I clicked on the link to the photss posted by "thenewkid64", but could not get anything. Does anyone know of a good link for photos on this "reinforcement"?

Thanks for help
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Old 09-27-2006, 08:57 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightdi
Old style disk brakes were terrible to maintain and not reliable. No repair parts currently available. I have a set I took of my 77. Final straw caliper holding frames welds cracked. I have used Kelsy Hayes and Dexter electrics since I took the disks off. Do not know about the new ones.

We have and have had repair parts for the original Airstream Excella-Vac disc brakes, up to and including overhaul of the sync valve and replacement bushings for the calipers, the pads (that we have made), special o-rings, pistons, and the clevis pins, and rebuilt rotors.

We also now have a replacement actuator, that does away with the need for a vacuum supply from the tow vehicles.

Disc brakes, even the original Airstream disc brakes, are far superior to electic brakes ever thought of being.

Andy
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Old 09-28-2006, 05:49 AM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airstream74
I know this is an old thread, but I am the victim of rear end sag.

I clicked on the link to the photss posted by "thenewkid64", but could not get anything. Does anyone know of a good link for photos on this "reinforcement"?

Thanks for help
Hey there, I've got a picture on another computer, but it will be tonight before I can post it. Do plenty of reading before you attempt repairs, it took me a while to do mine. I used a method very similar to the one Inland Andy described a page or so back, plus added some additional steel back there. Things are nice and sturdy back there now.

Good luck with it.

Jim
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