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01-12-2007, 07:43 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
2004 30' Classic
Lillian
, Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 19
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Rust starts quickly
This goes under the "For What It's Worth" category. Hopefully it may help someone else nip a budding problem before it gets too bad.
There are aluminum or stainless covers on the tongue of my 2004 Classic that I assume are there for cosmetic purposes, as well as providing a bearing surface for the spring bar saddles. I noticed bubbling in the paint around the front and rear ends of these covers, and when I removed them to check, discovered pretty severe rust on the tongue. Also, rust was starting, but not as advanced in several other places under these covers. I wire brushed and sanded the entire area, primed and painted. The covers are going in the trash. If things are going to rust, I want to be able to see it and get it fixed quickly.
Another area I found surprising amounts of rust was in the rear bumper storage drawer beneath the rubber mat that is placed at the factory. I had removed the mat to clean it and the drawer. Apparently, the mat traps water and grit beneath it, and with the vibration from travel, it rubs right through the galvanizing. I removed the drawer, cleaned and sanded, and sprayed the bottom of the drawer with Dupli Color truck bed liner. Used several cans of the spray, but the problem shouldn't recur. The mat was something else that went into the trash.
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01-12-2007, 08:44 PM
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#2
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Airstreamin and luvin it
Commercial Member
2005 25' Safari
Northwest Panhandle
, The Sunshine State/WBCCI 6637
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,524
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Rust
I have a 25'SS and rust has been getting bigger on some areas also.It is mostly underneath in the wheel well where water gets thrown into those opened spaces and gets trapped.I am on it though to fix this problem as quickly as possible.I plan on keeping this trailer for several years and maybe longer.The tongue is getting rust also but I think these problems are just common things that come with the purchase of these Airstreams.
What is a good solution to repair these things.I mean what type of paints have you all used.I know about the POR15(Is that the stuff?)but whant to know if anyone has used other products.Thanks.
__________________
CHANGE IS GOOD.LIFE IS GREAT!
It just cant get any better than that.
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01-17-2007, 05:11 PM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
2005 25' Safari
summerfield
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 70
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Devoman
Here,s what I used on hitch area of my 25fb and is a good match, Graphite grey metallic #E8800928 Dupli-color from Auto Zone.Steve, got my alumimun sheet metal today for 4.00 bucks to cover in holes around steps.DO you know if the frame up in the underbelly is painted or treated for rust? I also found a good exterior grade metal tape to apply down each side of the underbelly sheet metal where it is riveted up under the bottom about a foot or so all down the sides , got this also in lowes in the paint dept.
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01-17-2007, 05:41 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Safari
2015 27' Flying Cloud
Vintage Kin Owner
Conifer/Evergreen
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,701
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I notice you are all from humid areas...another solution is to move someplace more arid.
Shari
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01-17-2007, 05:46 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
2003 22' International CCD
Kiln
, Mississippi
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,779
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut
I notice you are all from humid areas...another solution is to move someplace more arid.
Shari
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Matters what you call humidity - I kinda like my rain to be the wet kind - not the 4+ feet of snow kind. When you have to shovel water - I'm not a fan.
__________________
Michael & Tina with Layla and Preston BZ The family has grown. 2003 22' INTERNATIONAL CCD
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01-17-2007, 07:02 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Safari
2015 27' Flying Cloud
Vintage Kin Owner
Conifer/Evergreen
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,701
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Yeah...but it's dry snow!
Shari
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01-17-2007, 08:53 PM
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#7
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1 Rivet Member
2004 30' Classic
Lillian
, Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 19
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Paint match
Quote:
Originally Posted by safari25-05
Here,s what I used on hitch area of my 25fb and is a good match, Graphite grey metallic #E8800928 Dupli-color from Auto Zone.
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I've been using Dupli Color Gunmetal Grey. Not a perfect match, but you must look pretty close to see the difference. From just a few feet away you can't see the difference. It also has sort of a "sparkly" appearance where the AS color is a plain grey. I think it's almost an identical match to the Graphite Grey metallic.
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01-17-2007, 09:09 PM
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#8
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1 Rivet Member
2004 30' Classic
Lillian
, Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 19
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Humididity
Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut
I notice you are all from humid areas...another solution is to move someplace more arid.
Shari
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Hi Shari,
I've experienced both the warm humid winters and the cold dry ones. I think I'll stay with the warm humid ones. Can't beat the winters here. Dry warm winters would be nice too, but then I wouldn't have the beach. Summers can be pretty brutal here, but we head north for the hot summer months.
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01-18-2007, 03:35 AM
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#9
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Silver Mist
Currently Looking...
Riverhead
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by safari25-05
a good exterior grade metal tape to apply down each side of the underbelly sheet metal where it is riveted up under the bottom about a foot or so all down the sides , got this also in lowes in the paint dept.
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I wouldn't do that, you're going to trap water rather then let it drain out.
__________________
Bob
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01-18-2007, 01:15 PM
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#10
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1 Rivet Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 16
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product called POR will STOP rust dead. It looks like paint, but dries like ceramic. I have used it several times with great success. expensive, but well worth it not having to worry about rust. Since it seals out air and moisture, rust just cannot happen.
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01-18-2007, 07:34 PM
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#11
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1 Rivet Member
2004 30' Classic
Lillian
, Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 19
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Por
Quote:
Originally Posted by krwrite
product called POR will STOP rust dead. It looks like paint, but dries like ceramic. I have used it several times with great success. expensive, but well worth it not having to worry about rust. Since it seals out air and moisture, rust just cannot happen.
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Thanks for the tip. I've already got mine painted, but this sounds like it will be worth checking out.
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01-19-2007, 06:37 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
West of Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 6,699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brijbldr
Hi Shari,
I've experienced both the warm humid winters and the cold dry ones. I think I'll stay with the warm humid ones. Can't beat the winters here. Dry warm winters would be nice too, but then I wouldn't have the beach. Summers can be pretty brutal here, but we head north for the hot summer months.
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Let's see - California. Dry climate, relatively warm, beaches.....
Now if I could just afford to live here!
Dave
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07-22-2007, 07:04 PM
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#13
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Rick & Lynn Rorie
2019 25' International
Mint Hill
, North Carolina
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 21
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Drawer Removal
Quote:
Originally Posted by brijbldr
Another area I found surprising amounts of rust was in the rear bumper storage drawer beneath the rubber mat that is placed at the factory. I had removed the mat to clean it and the drawer. Apparently, the mat traps water and grit beneath it, and with the vibration from travel, it rubs right through the galvanizing. I removed the drawer, cleaned and sanded, and sprayed the bottom of the drawer with Dupli Color truck bed liner. Used several cans of the spray, but the problem shouldn't recur. The mat was something else that went into the trash.
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Could you tell how to remove the drawer? I can't figure it out.
__________________
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Rick Rorie
rick@rickdesign.com
WBCCI 7231
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07-22-2007, 10:16 PM
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#14
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3 Rivet Member
2001 19' Bambi
Falmouth
, Massachusetts
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 124
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I had quite a surprise when I noticed rusting in the wheelwells. On further inspection I found severe rusting of the frame inside the bellypan causing an enormous amount of work. Water had been absorbed by the fiberglas and caused extensive rust throughout the crossmembers and main frame rails. See the following link about my 2001 Bambi:
http://www.airforums.com/photos/showimage.php?i=12550
I'm still not back on the road with it. If you're interested, search on my userid mswartz for more details on this problem, which I discovered June 2006.
I would urge you to take the time to inspect your frame now, even if it means opening or removing parts of the bellypan. You may be glad you did.... Good luck.
__________________
Marshall Swartz
2001 19-ft Bambi
2013 Honda Ridgeline RTL
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07-22-2007, 10:34 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1951 21' Flying Cloud
1960 24' Tradewind
West Coast
, BC
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,790
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We followed an aging and very rusted out van down the freeway one time from the central States where I assume they use a lot of salt on the highways in the winter. Painted across the back doors was
"Rust Never Sleeps"
Thought it was funny at the time and still get a chuckle whenever I see something with rust all over it heading down the road.
Barry
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08-26-2010, 02:24 PM
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#16
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banjobill
2000 30' Limited
battle ground,
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 516
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old thread, continuing problem
just two more cents worth-my recently aquired 95 excella had the stainless steel covers over the arms of the a-arm area of the tongue; they had been bolted through when sway control "ball ends" were attached. I removed them, and as you are aware, there was much corruption under these sleeves. If you have them, remove them and fix the rust, it will only get worse.
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08-26-2010, 05:28 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
2010 27' FB Classic
N/A
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmarsha
just two more cents worth-my recently aquired 95 excella had the stainless steel covers over the arms of the a-arm area of the tongue; they had been bolted through when sway control "ball ends" were attached. I removed them, and as you are aware, there was much corruption under these sleeves. If you have them, remove them and fix the rust, it will only get worse.
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Thanks for breathing new life into an old thread. Good pics and good advice.
__________________
"There’s two kinds of people, them goin’ somewhere and them goin’ nowhere. And’s that what’s true". -Ben Rumson
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08-26-2010, 05:38 PM
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#18
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Rivet Master
1997 34' Limited
1970 27' Overlander
South of Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,709
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Rickdesign,
I realize three years have past since you asked your question, but since I just saw it a minute ago.....
The stops for the drawer is a pair of very long bolts on either side. Slide your arm along the edge of the drawer and you will feel them. I think they are 9/16". Using a small socket wrench, they can be backed out, then the drawer just pulls out.
__________________
Craig and Carol
1997 34' Excella 1000
1970 27' Overlander, International
2009 Ford F150 5.4L
ProPride hitch with 1400# bars
AIR 41028
TAC GA-8
WBCCI 10199
Past President Southeastern Camping Unit (12)
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08-26-2010, 05:51 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,655
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I also had rusting under the bumper drawer floor mat. I, likewise, used (rustoleum) truck bed liner "paint" and left out the mat. Works well.
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