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Old 09-14-2004, 08:27 PM   #1
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Rotten floor

After taking up the carpet I found a large soft spot/hole in the floor near the door.

Can anyone give me advice as to how best to replace the hole? It is about 6x10 inches and is right up to the wall.

Thanks!
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Old 09-14-2004, 09:18 PM   #2
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You broke the first rule of being a casual vintage airstream owner, you looked . Now it begins. Lots and lots of stuff on floors to read here which will help you diagnosis the problem and it's extent. You may be able to do a patch by putting plywood ledges around the cut out hole and putting a new piece on that using good glue, screws and plywood. However, first read some floor stuff. The underneath patch idea is in a thread and more than you ever what to know about what happens if you look .
I'm sure others will point you to specific threads but be forewarned, cross this line and everything changes .
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Old 09-15-2004, 01:54 AM   #3
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I have a similar problem, but I refuse to so much as look in it's direction.

Let us know how you decide to go about fixing it!
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Old 09-15-2004, 01:59 AM   #4
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Talking

If you want to replace the hole I have lots of them in my old floor boards.
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Old 09-15-2004, 07:23 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BurnBound
After taking up the carpet I found a large soft spot/hole in the floor near the door.

Can anyone give me advice as to how best to replace the hole? It is about 6x10 inches and is right up to the wall.

Thanks!
I have a document for you, but it is too large for the forum. It is a Word document with a diagram that should help. How best to get it to you?

Rick
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Old 09-15-2004, 08:20 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BurnBound
Can anyone give me advice as to how best to replace the hole? It is about 6x10 inches and is right up to the wall.

Thanks!
I would like to know if the hole spans an outrigger. Outriggers are the metal frame pieces that the plywood is attached to. Is there a big flat headed bolt in or near the hole?

First step is to find and repair the leak that caused the floor to rot. You knew that, I'm just being a .

You need to clean out all the rotted wood under the floor channel. If the hole is over an outrigger, it is important to replace the rotted wood with new material because this is a structural joint. You should either remove or cut an access hole in the interior panel so that you can access and replace the bolt that holds the shell to the outrigger.

You can either use butt straps under the repair, or make a scarfed joint, or both. Butt straps are wide straps of plywood that bridge the hole from underneath, and support the patch. A scarfed joint is where the edges of the patch and the hole are tapered from top to bottom, so that the patch sits in the hole like a bowl on a saucer. The taper lets you have much greater glue surface. It would be hard to use butt straps if the hole spans an outrigger.

I don't think it makes lot of difference what type of glue you use if it is exterior rated. I use urethane glue because it expands slightly to fill any gaps and is waterproof.

Good luck. Take pictures.
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Old 09-15-2004, 08:33 AM   #7
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I had a similar problem although I did not have any through-holes to replace.

Anyway, I was able to affect repairs with Rot Doctor and fiberglass resin. This thread contains a good discussion of the process.

Tom
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Old 09-15-2004, 08:39 AM   #8
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If the rot goes all the way to the door inspect the step framework. As long as you have the hole spray some rust must down in there if it doesn't need work.
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Old 10-06-2004, 07:27 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Alston
I have a document for you, but it is too large for the forum. It is a Word document with a diagram that should help. How best to get it to you?

Rick
Good Morning,
I too will be in a similar situation re repair to floors, as I just purchased a 1975 Soverign 31' and have been advised it needs help at the door due to skylight leakage. Your Word document sounds as if it might be a good starter. Could you copy paste and email it to me, but not as an attachment, as my computer seems to refuse attachments.
Thank you kindly
Stewart Skrill
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Old 01-21-2006, 09:14 PM   #10
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Floor Discussion!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by farmer
Good Morning,
I too will be in a similar situation re repair to floors, as I just purchased a 1975 Soverign 31' and have been advised it needs help at the door due to skylight leakage. Your Word document sounds as if it might be a good starter. Could you copy paste and email it to me, but not as an attachment, as my computer seems to refuse attachments.
Thank you kindly
Stewart Skrill
I feel so much better to know that hubby and I aren't the only Soverign 31' owners (ours is a '73 in fair condition) with holes in the floor. It is confined to the front room, across from the door and appears to be originating from the upper window area. Our first task after we locate some new rubber gaskets, is to remove old, cracked gaskets, clean the surface and adhere the new gasket. Then we shall open the "can of worms" of what is waiting for under the plywood! Scarey, scarey Any advice?
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Old 01-21-2006, 11:08 PM   #11
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I just finished replacing the front floor of a 62 Globetrotter, Under the front window I could push my finger through the plywood. Also had to replace plywood across the door opening. Under the door opening is the step and you can look up to see the steel brackets that the plywood rests on. Measure back from the outside edge to where you hit the metal frame about 15 inches. You want your patch to rest on that frame. Cut the plywood away to the center line of the steel frame piece. I used a 4" grinder to cut the old plywood away on the centerline, there are steel brackets for the step right and left. Had to remome some skin near the door to get new piece under the wall channel. Had to use bolt cutter to remove bolts in u-channel. I used self drilling screws to attach plywood to the steel frame.
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Old 01-22-2006, 06:19 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmuszick
I feel so much better to know that hubby and I aren't the only Soverign 31' owners (ours is a '73 in fair condition) with holes in the floor. It is confined to the front room, across from the door and appears to be originating from the upper window area. Our first task after we locate some new rubber gaskets, is to remove old, cracked gaskets, clean the surface and adhere the new gasket. Then we shall open the "can of worms" of what is waiting for under the plywood! Scarey, scarey Any advice?
Sounds like what we just went thru on a 76. Still looking for all the leaks, found on on the lower window by the door, Still have one that may be from the running lights. Check out our fix

http://www.balrgn.com/Airstream/Sovereign/Sovereign.htm
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Old 02-04-2006, 09:13 PM   #13
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Alternative To Removing Interior Skin to Replace Floor

I am a newby here. Is there an alternative to removing the inner and belly skins when replacing the entire floor? I tore the front radiused section out of my '63 Ambassador today to get a feel of how this thing is put together.
I expected a steel outer perimeter "plate" but was surprised to see that it appears to be thin aluminum. My plan was to remove belly sections, cut new plywood slide and fit under the ledge and install self tapping screws from the bottom upward through the plywood and outer perimeter plate to avoid having to remove the interior skin.
Am i mistaken or is the outer and inner shell bolted through the plywood floor
around the outside perimeter? will self tapping screws be sufficient through the cross beams or do they need to be bolted as per factory assembly. Has anyone done a full floor replace without bolting around the perimeter and kept the shell on doing 70 on the interstate????
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Old 02-04-2006, 10:39 PM   #14
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Dear Burnbond:
I had exactly the same problem. I am trying to attach a picture of how I took care of it. It was not easy, but I think this floor will last longer than any other. I have to mention that I covered the aluminum with a plywood. If picture do not show, email me, I'll send them to you as attachment.
Cheers
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