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Old 06-14-2011, 11:51 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phrunes View Post
I know that expansion gaps are important...however, if you affix hard mounted cabinets to a floating floor, aren't you in essence hard mounting the floor?
Yes....
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Old 07-27-2011, 02:11 AM   #30
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Sorry I just saw your thanks, I dont look at the user cp much. here is the pic of the coork floor sample
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Old 07-27-2011, 08:42 AM   #31
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On our 1988 Excella, the cabinets were not installed over the carpet. Airstream put the cabinets in and then installed the carpet with nail strips like a house. We put in an engineered laminate. Looked at cork (too dark) and bamboo (I did not want to glue it), but went with a very cheap, thin laminate. I went ahead and put in the moulding around the perimeter. Used the vinly moulding, elmers glue, and a few nail gun shots to pin it together. So far (1 year) and 2 caravans it has held up fine. Best modification we have made on the trailer.
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Old 07-27-2011, 02:50 PM   #32
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Coincidentally, I just finished a pleasant and rewarding week-end with my 68GT, installing a maple engineered floor.


Being one who tends to “over research” everything, cautioned and frightened by all the “trailer floor” horrors and myth, I concluded, as many have, that an engineered hardwood, glue and nail-down, is indeed, an appropriate flooring solution.


Considering the coefficients of expansion of all available material, including the original plywood sub-floor, durability, cost, longevity, appearance, and acoustics (I want my wood floor to sound like a wood floor when I walk. I hate the tick-tick sound of wood-look plastic and floating floors), 3/8 engineered hardwood is a safe choice.


I physically inspected all engineered flooring products and chose Canadian Maple by Schon. I was not able to perceive any difference in the manufacture of Bruce and Schon, except the Schon appeared to be of a less blemished, and a more color consistent grade. Other than that, they could have come from the same manufacturer. There are seven laminates in both. The Schon cost $4/sf.


Was it hard to do?? NO... It was easy. I did it by myself.


Was it Challenging?? About like a child's jig-saw puzzle to match color and space end seams.


Does it look good? So good, I want to hug and kiss it!!


My hints for success...
It is important to scrape, scuff, clean and seal the Airstream plywood sub-floor. Your success lies in the prep-work.
Paint two coats of any oil-based enamel over the area that you will glue. Let it dry 'til hard. This will “seal” the floor.
Let the flooring acclimate as per manufacturer.
I work barefoot so when (not if) I step in glue, I know right away so I don't track it around.
Dry-fit half the floor, install that half, then dry-fit and install the remainder.
I started at the door, tongue facing street side, leaving room to fabricate a tapered 3/4 to 3/8 threshold so I can broom-sweep out the door.


Don't “mud-up” a large area with the mastic. I used a 3” notched putty knife to mud one course at a time. Seems like it isn't as efficient, but it really went faster working “cleaner”.
Spend a lot of time measuring and checking your dry-fit lay-out and alignment.
Spend a lot of time measuring and checking your dry-fit lay-out and alignment.
Did I mention, Spend a lot of time measuring and checking your dry-fit lay-out and alignment??


If you don't have a finish nail gun and compressor, I'd buy them according to your budget. You'll find them eternally handy.
You can buy them both at any Chinese Junk Tool Store for under $150 for everything.
Somewhat costly, but Senco gun and Emglo compressor is my preferred combo that I can personally recommend.


Working around corners and edges, if you have difficulty imagining how to cut, fit a paper template first.
I chose to install during the hottest, most humid season, as insurance against buckling. I'd rather a few gaps than buckles. Honestly tho, since by glue and nail, the flooring has become an additional laminate of the original plywood floor, I don't expect that the flooring layer can behave independently from the sub-floor. They should expand and contract together. I left little or no “expansion gaps”.


“Quoting the Scientists”...


“The average coefficient of hygroscopic expansion or contraction in length and width for plywood panels is about 0.0002 inch per inch for each 10 percent change in equilibrium relative humidity. The total change from oven dry to fiber saturation averages about 0.2 percent.


Total dimensional changes of a 48x96-inch panel exposed to this change in conditions may be expected to average about 0.05 inch across the width and 0.09 inch along the length.


The thermal expansion of wood is much smaller than swelling due to absorption of moisture. Because of this, thermal expansion can be neglected ”


There's plenty of research for continued study if you're worried... I'm Not.


In closing,


Don't be discouraged by errors, nobody does it perfectly, and Sister Lucentia won't be there to beat you if you make a mistake.


Any damned fool can do this...


Peace, Wm
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Old 07-27-2011, 02:59 PM   #33
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 374
Coincidentally, I just finished a pleasant and rewarding week-end with my 68GT, installing a maple engineered floor.


Being one who tends to “over research” everything, cautioned and frightened by all the “trailer floor” horrors and myth, I concluded, as many have, that an engineered hardwood, glue and nail-down, is indeed, an appropriate flooring solution.


Considering the coefficients of expansion of all available material, including the original plywood sub-floor, durability, cost, longevity, appearance, and acoustics (I want my wood floor to sound like a wood floor when I walk. I hate the tick-tick sound of wood-look plastic and floating floors), 3/8 engineered hardwood is a safe choice.


I physically inspected all engineered flooring products and chose Canadian Maple by Schon. I was not able to perceive any difference in the manufacture of Bruce and Schon, except the Schon appeared to be of a less blemished, and a more color consistent grade. Other than that, they could have come from the same manufacturer. There are seven laminates in both. The Schon cost $4/sf.


Was it hard to do?? NO... It was easy. I did it by myself.


Was it Challenging?? About like a child's jig-saw puzzle to match color and space end seams.


Does it look good? So good, I want to hug and kiss it!!


My hints for success...
It is important to scrape, scuff, clean and seal the Airstream plywood sub-floor. Your success lies in the prep-work.
Paint two coats of any oil-based enamel over the area that you will glue. Let it dry 'til hard. This will “seal” the floor.
Let the flooring acclimate as per manufacturer.
I work barefoot so when (not if) I step in glue, I know right away so I don't track it around.
Dry-fit half the floor, install that half, then dry-fit and install the remainder.
I started at the door, tongue facing street side, leaving room to fabricate a tapered 3/4 to 3/8 threshold so I can broom-sweep out the door.


Don't “mud-up” a large area with the mastic. I used a 3” notched putty knife to mud one course at a time. Seems like it isn't as efficient, but it really went faster working “cleaner”.
Spend a lot of time measuring and checking your dry-fit lay-out and alignment.
Spend a lot of time measuring and checking your dry-fit lay-out and alignment.
Did I mention, Spend a lot of time measuring and checking your dry-fit lay-out and alignment??


If you don't have a finish nail gun and compressor, I'd buy them according to your budget. You'll find them eternally handy.
You can buy them both at any Chinese Junk Tool Store for under $150 for everything.
Somewhat costly, but Senco gun and Emglo compressor is my preferred combo that I can personally recommend.


Working around corners and edges, if you have difficulty imagining how to cut, fit a paper template first.
I chose to install during the hottest, most humid season, as insurance against buckling. I'd rather a few gaps than buckles. Honestly tho, since by glue and nail, the flooring has become an additional laminate of the original plywood floor, I don't expect that the flooring layer can behave independently from the sub-floor. They should expand and contract together. I left little or no “expansion gaps”.


“Quoting the Scientists”...


“The average coefficient of hygroscopic expansion or contraction in length and width for plywood panels is about 0.0002 inch per inch for each 10 percent change in equilibrium relative humidity. The total change from oven dry to fiber saturation averages about 0.2 percent.


Total dimensional changes of a 48x96-inch panel exposed to this change in conditions may be expected to average about 0.05 inch across the width and 0.09 inch along the length.


The thermal expansion of wood is much smaller than swelling due to absorption of moisture. Because of this, thermal expansion can be neglected ”


There's plenty of research for continued study if you're worried... I'm Not.


In closing,


Don't be discouraged by errors, nobody does it perfectly, and Sister Lucentia won't be there to beat you if you make a mistake.


Any damned fool can do this...
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:30 PM   #34
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Some people are saying that they've had trouble with the Allure flooring buckling in heat and the glue strip coming unglued. How has your floor held up?
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:28 PM   #35
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I went with "FLOR" carpet squares in the bedroom and bathroom. I like soft surfaces under my feet at night. Carpet squares are easy to work with in the restricted space and if you make a mistake, it is seldom an expensive mistake. I have an extra square in case of damage somewhere along the way.

I did have to use molding at most edges since the squares were a bit thinner than the original carpet and pad.

When you cut along the bases of the cabinets, you can use a blunt piece of wood and a hammer to drive the carpet back a bit. This prevents the frayed edges from showing. I also found that a cheap serrated knife, kept super sharp, eliminated most frayed edges. Those that were left were mostly in corners.
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