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Old 06-07-2011, 11:52 AM   #15
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I have a perimeter expansion gap. The partitian walls and kitchen counter sit on the Allure but I haven't screwed them down yet. The couch and bed frame also sit on the Allure but I've not yet screwed them down either. The flooring is throughout but the only trouble spot appears to be where the floor was exposed direct sunlight when the door was left open on a 65 degree day. My thought was that the couch was preventing expansion but the floor shouldn't require an expansion joint in front of the couch.
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:59 AM   #16
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I will be putting my laminate in the Argosy the same way I put it in the house...leaving 1/4" gaps at walls and counters. With the TT, I will be able to lay it under some cabinets due to an existing space that won't pin the laminate in one place permanatly. As for the 1/4" edge gap...I haven't decided what to do other than 1/4 rd but I'll think of something...
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:01 PM   #17
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Thanks everyone! I am leaning towards cork, although can't picture it in my head, I have the 1970's brown tiles stuck there. Will do more research, especially when thinking about added weight, buying the flooring and letting it breathe for a few days in the camper before installing - have already gleaned lots of insight from all of you!
Regards! Jim.
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:53 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Not Done View Post
The flooring bubbled up during the recent 65-75 degree "heat wave". It acted like there wasn't room yet it did have room. No Idea what's going in next. Actually the problem didn't occur throughout but mostly where the floor was exposed to direct sunlight. It would probably be fine if the AS had no windows or doors.
Not Done,

Can you please tell me exactly where in your trailer the bubbling happened? We are going to put that exact flooring down in our AS within the next few weeks, and, like Gary (Ganglin) I had heard nothing but praise on here for it.
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Old 06-07-2011, 04:41 PM   #19
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Allure is refunding $, not for trailer use.

Just got the call from Home Depot. Allure does not recommend the product for use in trailers and is refunding me.

Aage: It was bucking in the Living Room. In the area that the evening sun through the open door seems to have warmed the floor.

It's too bad. We loved the floor for the couple of weeks we had it.
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Old 06-07-2011, 05:52 PM   #20
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I installed 6" plank Heart pine floors, I have been very pleased with the results. no buckling/ warping/ cupping/ etc. I installed a vapor barrier and then toungue nailed the T&G planks (no glue). When we talk about Hardwoods in an AS we are of course talking about "engineered floors"... they are more dimensionally stable than solid hardwoods. The engineered floor has a veneer grade top layer; typically, the type of wood an the thickness of this veneer layer will have the most impact on price.
I was able to get "remnants/leftovers" from a flooring company from a large job they had just completed. It was more than enough for my 1982 34'.
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Old 06-07-2011, 09:43 PM   #21
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Hi JimNWen.

We also have a 1999 25' Safari, we bought her (Lola) last December. She used to have that same blue carpeting, but we had that taken out and layed a really nice sheet good. At first we thought we'd use Marmoleum, as we have that in our home's kitchen and simply love it. However, when we went to check into colors, etc., we realized how heavy it is and we were trying to be very careful about additional weight in Lola. The salesperson showed us one by Tarkett, but just now I can't remember the exact name. It is much lighter in weight, and the colorway we selected goes very well with the cabinets in Lola. I think I've posted on here about it before and the full name should be there.

We also removed the sofa and built in a banquette, and I am upholstering it with faux-croc. I do custom home furnishings for a living, so I also replaced all the window treatments.

We took her to P&S in Helena, OH to have her checked out and while there, had them replace the toilet with one that has a porcelain china bowl.

We couldn't wrap our minds around the 14" tires that came on her and/or the tires which we were limited to purchase for that size, so after much consideration (and reading and more reading here on the forum), we changed from 14" wheels/tires to 16". In order to do that, we purchased two new axles from Inland RV, CA, while doing that, we upgraded to a 3500 lb. axle each and went from 10" to 12" brakes. We really wanted to have as stress-free traveling as possible and felt we needed to get Michelin tires on her for that purpose, so we went with the Michelin XPS, 16" tires. We travelled to Destin, FL and camped at Top Sail Campground -- had a wonderful time and we didn't have to worry about the tires at all. (I must say, though, that at every stop did walk arounds and my DH checked the tires for heat build-up. We also kept a check on the air pressure. Before loading up to return home, we checked the lug nuts to make certain they hadn't loosened since they were new, and checked the new axle's bolts to make certain they hadn't loosened. All checked out fine.)

We also layed a piece of plywood across the twin beds to make into one queen and bought a queen memory foam mattress from Overstock.com -- wonderful sleeping! At first we were torn between the ease of making up the twin beds, and the fact that we don't sleep well when not side-by-side. Making up the bed is a little more difficult this way, but a good night's sleep is more important to us.

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Deb
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Old 06-13-2011, 09:13 PM   #22
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Here is a quick cell phone photo of the Allure in my Globetrotter. I just put it over top of the old vinyl and it looks great. It took exactly 2 boxes and while I have some baseboard trim to fabricate, I enjoy that sort of thing. I just went around the furniture. For $86 and a couple hours it is a hell of a facelift and it can come out just as easy as it went in if need be.
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Old 06-13-2011, 09:31 PM   #23
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I am leaning towards the engineered hardwood for added floor stability and warmth. I can't wrap my mind around the gap around the perimeter though. If I am laying the floor in an empty trailer wall to wall and mount the fixtures back in such as the galley counter, stove, sink, refer and cabinets and the bulkheads and bed, goucho on TOP of the flooring doesnt that already inhibit expansion? Im stuck on this one.
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Old 06-13-2011, 10:24 PM   #24
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The Fowlers put Bruce laminate flooring in my 88 Excella going on 3 years ago, maybe 4........Anyway, the stuff has held up well with NO problems to date and quite a bit of use.........

The flooring is of a quality that I will brag about........the installation is another matter that I would rather not discuss here. Just be careful that your floor bracing under the flooring material doesnt sag or if it does to make allowances for that. Be careful on your "trim" around the edges and where it meets the cabinets. Make sure you use a method of attachment that when the floor moves the trim does NOT fall off.....When you pull up the toilet to install the flooring at least put in a new seal.....think quality......A craftsman should know this...........

I really do recommend the Bruce laminate flooring from Lowe's. Good stuff.........Dennis
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:10 PM   #25
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Hi, I'm sure [my opinion] that if a 1/4" is good enough for a house, that 1/8" should work fine in a trailer considering how much smaller it is. And like mentioned above, if done in empty trailer, all of the cabinets will be mounted on top of this floor.
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:19 PM   #26
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The expansions gaps are important. The temp and humidity variations in am AS are greater than in a controled house environment. While the engineered material more dimensionally stable than solid material, it will still expand and contract with temp and humidity. The boards can buckle if there is no expansion somewhere in the floor.
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Old 06-14-2011, 05:21 AM   #27
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Here is a quick cell phone photo of the Allure in my Globetrotter. I just put it over top of the old vinyl and it looks great. It took exactly 2 boxes and while I have some baseboard trim to fabricate, I enjoy that sort of thing. I just went around the furniture. For $86 and a couple hours it is a hell of a facelift and it can come out just as easy as it went in if need be.

For small gaps around cut outs Bruce makes an expansion caulk that you may be able to make use of.....

Bruce Acrylic Filler FILA11
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Old 06-14-2011, 11:15 AM   #28
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I know that expansion gaps are important...however, if you affix hard mounted cabinets to a floating floor, aren't you in essence hard mounting the floor?
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