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Old 11-06-2005, 05:48 PM   #15
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The inside

As you can see it is a work in progress. I am still removing some of the cabinets and furnishings. It is obviously a mess; I am still cleaning up the debris and dirt. The rot is from a leaky rear hatch. There is also some damage up front from a leaky water tank, and the main door leaked around rotted seals.
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Old 11-06-2005, 06:08 PM   #16
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i'm another member of the shell-off restoration club! you will learn a ton either way you go. it's fun to re-read my thread from day one until now. stuff i used to really worry about now seems like a piece of cake (like skin replacement for example).

http://www.airforums.com/forum...ent-17197.html

good luck and happy learning! i wish i had a free spot in my garage to work through the winter, but alas, all the bays are filled with other projects... 8 vehicles... 3 run... ha! gonna be a LONG winter!

jp
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Old 11-06-2005, 06:49 PM   #17
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
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Shell off restoration

BB 55 Bubble Howdy, I also have been doing a shell off restoration. If you haven't looked a A-Merry-Can's thread I highly recommend it. It has lots of good information I have used so far. Here is my thread.

http://www.airforums.com/forum...mbi-17925.html

I've just completed the work on the frame and ready to begin replacing the floor. I need to rearrange the garage now to get the frame inside. As you know the rainy season has started! C Johnson has a good site also. He has complete pictures on the following site.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tags/airstream/

Enjoy the adventure
Don
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Old 11-06-2005, 08:27 PM   #18
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I have done a shell off as well.

Really it depends on how extensive the damage is as to what way your go. If the damage is mostly isolated to just the rear then I would say pulling the body is not needed. You can drill out the rivets around the rear (to the wheel well as short as that coach is). Drop the belly pan nd remove the inner rear panel to access the bolts in the u-channel.

These coaches start with the floor then the frame is dropped on the floor upside down. Then the belly pan is installed. Once the belly pan and running gear is on they flip it over. There will be a few hidden rivets through the belly pan into the u-channel but not visible from the exterior. You can sheer with a putty knife to get the belly to drop. weight the bumper and get the rear to open like a clam shell. Then you can slide a full width piece in.


If at all possible the best repair is a full sheet across the frame. NEVER section along the top of the main frame rails. It is a weak repair. The frame rail will become a fulcrum point and the stress on the outriggers will be higher as a result. If you must cut the width then cut it in the center and from the bottom put a lap piece in the center that you use construction adhesive and plenty of bolts. Something like this -----__------. That will make a stronger repair.

Welcome to the forums! Look forward to more pictures of your coach.

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Old 11-06-2005, 09:53 PM   #19
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I did a semi shell off repair on my trailer - I detached the shell from the frame except for the front - lifted it a little to slide the wood under - mine is cut down the center exactly as 59 describes. Use 4" in each side of the seam and it will be as strong or stronger than the plywood - its a butt joint as they use in the plywood boat world.

BTW-not sure I would use the same method again - it was pretty scary being in the trailer knowing the shell was basically not attached...........

Ken J.
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Old 11-06-2005, 10:46 PM   #20
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59, that's a way cool factory pic...pretty cool to imagine that that's your trailer being built, even if that pic is Pre-69 era....I was thinking to myself, how cool would that be, if one of those was mine....then I saw the front window...oh well, one can dream.

Frederic
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Old 11-09-2005, 03:52 PM   #21
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Begining the floor

I removed a section of the interior panel today. I had started with one of the windows so that I can start to overhaul them, so I said what the hell what is a few more rivets! So what am I looking at, is the C channel the one that looks more like a U? For reference this picture is on the port side just forward of the wheel well. There is a bold that attaches to the frame just to the left of the rot hole. This does not look to be all that difficult! (If I start to whine latter just remind me I said that)
Thanks all have a great day!
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Old 11-09-2005, 05:28 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB 55 Bubble
I removed a section of the interior panel today. I had started with one of the windows so that I can start to overhaul them, so I said what the hell what is a few more rivets! So what am I looking at, is the C channel the one that looks more like a U? For reference this picture is on the port side just forward of the wheel well. There is a bold that attaches to the frame just to the left of the rot hole. This does not look to be all that difficult! (If I start to whine latter just remind me I said that)
Thanks all have a great day!
The difference between a C channel and a U channel is the length of parallel sides. Shorter then the width then its a C if they are longer then the width then its a U now here is the odd part. The Channel on a Airstream is 1.5 wide. One leg is 1 inch and one leg is 1.5. hahahahahaha C or U we get it LOL.

If you have that much damage you are not much more work to just separate it. A coach that small is pretty easy to handle. 2 people could easily handle that body as long as it doesn't have a Roof A/C on it.

Where this will make it easier is when you are installing the elevator bolts to hold down the new decking and the U/C channel ( ) it will be a lot easier.

Here is my posts on my restoration.
http://www.airforums.com/forum...post-6554.html

http://www.airforums.com/forum...her-15048.html
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Old 11-16-2005, 12:22 AM   #23
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Smile Mickey? Is that you?

Mickey Mouse got an eviction notice today! I got a kick out of this so I took a picture of it for prosperity sake, thought I would share it with everyone. It appears that the little bugger had gotten up through the belly pan near where the bumper goes through it. Then it got into the frame for the rear accesses door. Then it made a home in the insulation, I found a pile of its nesting material as it poured out of the void. The pile in the picture is about 4-5 inches deep. Even more “interesting” it had some sort of pebble and some weed seed in its nest, it had separated in to two neat piles side by side. Any way thought someone would get a giggle out of this.
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Old 11-16-2005, 07:26 AM   #24
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Mice in my sides and Bees in my belly

I discovered that all forms of like love Airstream. Here a couple of pictures of the live ins I found.
Take a look at my thread. http://www.airforums.com/forum...mbi-17925.html
Don
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Old 10-20-2006, 11:25 AM   #25
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Where I am today!

It has been a long time since I have updated this post so here I go.
The inside - gutted
The interior skin - removed and in storage. The dome end caps do fit through the door!
Shell - braced and OFF
Frame - Striped and ready to go to the welder.
Pictures are worth a few words here.
I would like to note that I usually have the garage and shop spotless. Nothing like a "small" project to keep the floor full of goodies, and the tools out for on gong jobs.
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Old 10-20-2006, 11:59 AM   #26
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Online resources

I addressed the need for rivets first, I ordered a whole mess load of riveting supplies used from The Yard Store http://www.yardstore.com/ I got a 4X Ingersoll-Rand buck riveter with a tip, and a buck bar. I got a whole mess load of rivets from Aircraft Spruce, their link http://www.aircraftspruce.com/
I ordered a new roof vent form Vintage Trailer Supply here is their link; http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...Code=VTS%2D280. They have all sorts of goodies and add new ones every day. I keep on looking and they keep adding.
One of the first things I started to address for the interior was the appliances. My refrigerator worked great on 110 but the gas was less that spectacular. I found several resources in the attempt to fix it;
The Old Appliance Club (TOAC). Great bunch of people, which have a passion for the old appliances. More of an antique home appliance group but was able to steer me in the right direction. Their link is http://www.antiquestoves.com/toac/index.htm. The one guy who was the biggest help and has the parts that I need to have fixed and had the rarest of parts was http://www.snydersrvrefrigeration.com/ AKA RVCool here on this site. Another good source for parts is http://www.rvdoctorgeorge.com/ he has a ton of used parts in general.
Now the stove in the trailer is also in great shape mechanically but just needed some cosmetic work completed, and the man of the hour was John Ballantyne at Custom Ceramic coatings INC his web site is http://www.customceramic.com/. I had a hell of a time finding some one who could remove and replace the porcelain coating on the stove. The biggest problem was the removal of the old material. DO NOT EVER TRY TO REMOVE IT YOURSELF!!! What a pain in the rump, it does not come off with normal abrasives. Sandblasting with normal media will only warp the thin sheet metal, this guy has some blast media like soda ash that is so fine it removes the old porcelain and will not heat up the thin sheet and warp the metal. YES!
That is it for now some pictures to follow!
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Old 10-20-2006, 12:20 PM   #27
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Pictures

Here are the pictures for the last two postings. Enjoy
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Old 10-20-2006, 02:33 PM   #28
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This is just a suggestion so here it goes, The 4X rivet gun is a little overkill for shooting 5/32 rivets in thin skin, a 3X would give you a much better job. You can still do it, but I would suggest that you turn the air pressure down to 80 or 90 psi. Learn how to shoot with some scrap first. One can easily pucker the skin using to large of a gun. If you already know how to shoot and buck rivets then just disregard this message. I just don't what you to get into trouble right out of the gate. The regulator on the gun is not a true regulator and will give you full line pressure for a nano second on the first pull of the trigger before it settles down. I do not use this type of regulators on any of my guns but control them by teasing the trigger. I have the following guns: 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X, and a 7X, with the 3X the one I use the most.
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