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Old 04-05-2002, 07:59 AM   #1
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1965 20' Globetrotter
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Replacing my 65 Globetrotter Floor

Here is a shot of replacing my foor under the rear bath. It was rotten all the way around the back. I pulled most of it out with my hands. In this shot I was drilling out the bottom row of rivets so that I can bolt the new floor to the shell floor flange around the perimeter of the shell. This is VERY important as the floor holds the shell to the frame.
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Old 04-05-2002, 08:06 AM   #2
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More floor fun

Here is a shot of the Bath Shower Surround. Doesn't this look like fun?
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AIR# 123

-"You want to make it two inches - or, if you're working in centimeters, make sure it's enough centimeters for two inches."-Red Green
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Old 04-10-2002, 10:16 PM   #3
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1961 16' Bambi
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Looking good!

It looks like you have painted the frame with POR-15 or a similar rust prohibitor? I am kind of nervous to explore the rear floor of my 1961 Bambi. Everywhere I can walk it feels sturdy. Where/When did you notice the rot first?

What advice would you pass on now that you have gone so far with the floor raplacement?

thanks,

Andy
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Old 04-11-2002, 10:25 PM   #4
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Actually, MarilynW first noticed that "The floor under the water heater doesn't look right". I had planned to replace the H2O heater as someone had stuck, not installed, a 6gallon household electric tank heater in the closet somewhere down the line. So I pulled it out and pulled out the 2 layers of carpet that the water heater was sitting on, leaned into the closet and proceeded to put my balancing hand through the floor up to my elbow. I guess you can imagine the words that came out of my mouth.

The next step was to pull the belly pans off and really get a good look. From the water heater vent/access door ALL the way around the back of the bath to the floor in the road side closet was sawdust. I pulled everything out by hand except the wood directly under the shower drain.

Having read InlandRV Andy's response on an old archive I knew that the only way to properly repair this was to pull everything out so that I could bolt the floor back to the shell bottom flange. It took a full 14 hour Saturday to pull out the 2 closets and the 1 piece tub surround without destroying them.

MarlilynW power buffed and applied good old Navy Jelly to all the exposed frame work. Next step will be prime and paint with Valspar Tractor Paints. I am fortunate enough to have a chain store called "The Tractor Supply Store" less than 1/4 mile from me. I used this process on the A-Frame hitch and it looks brand new.

After realizing the value of these old trailers (after we bought it), we are commited to doing a first class restoration/update on this trailer. We are not even going to attempt a true restoration but are going to modernize it with the latest features. I have bought a number of parts from Andy IRV like refrig vents and window handles. I am trying not to have a pile of parts sitting around but am ordering things as we go. Andy's advice is to start at the ground and work you way up and that is what we are doing. New electric brakes and TRAILER wheels and TRAILER tires are already installed. NEW LP gas header and tubing is in place. 2 new 30 gal bottles are sitting in the garage. New 110/ 12vdc electrical system converter is also in the garage. All of the plumbing is being replace with PEX tubing and fittings. New MOEN fixtures replacing what appears to be original. Shower fixture have been revalved. The new Upholstery is sitting in a guest bedroom ready for the day.
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Old 06-28-2002, 12:28 PM   #5
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replacing floor

Hello Bobby,
Would you consider doing this on a contract labor basis. I have just received a 55 Cruiser that needs a whole new floor. Can a whole new floor replacement be done on a gutted trailer? If so what would the cost be to have it done? Here is a photo of the floor. I hope I attached it correctly.
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