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Old 06-21-2011, 01:29 AM   #1
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1964 26' Overlander
austin , Texas
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Replacing Floor and repairing frame

I just bought a '64 Overlander and am embarking on a full renovation. After pulling out some rotted flooring, I found that I need some repair work done on the frame. What do I need to do to pull out the subfloor then tow it to a welder to have the frame repaired? Do I remove the belly or can I leave it on? Does it need to be dead level?

Thanks for any help.
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Old 06-21-2011, 06:17 AM   #2
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Can you post some pic of the floor and frame? A lot depends on how extensive the floor rot is, where it is, and how extensive and where the frame damage is.
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Old 06-21-2011, 08:21 AM   #3
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If you are going that far I would remove the belly pan. I am sure the belly is going to need replacement. I just finished a lengthy frame repair, would have been a PITA with the skin on. Plus you will want to rust proof that frame. Oh and have that frame sandblasted, wire brushing is too time consuming!
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Old 06-22-2011, 12:18 PM   #4
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Thanks ya'll. Spoke with the welding shop and they recommended pulling everything out for ease of access. I will be able to post detailed pics tomorrow to show the damage.
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Old 06-22-2011, 12:50 PM   #5
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I would advise against moving the trailer once the floor is removed. The shell (body) sits on top of the floor which in turn sits on top of the frame. Without the floor what is going to hold up the shell? The floor is the main structural component connectiing the shell with the frame unless properly braced towing it like that will cause damage to the shell.
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Old 06-22-2011, 01:44 PM   #6
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1985 31' Excella
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I just replaced 5 outriggers from the inside. I cut 16" of the floor out in four places. I left the wood in the c channel until I am ready to replace the floor. I only had a few small places really rotting into the c channel. I was able to cut the outriggers off with a sawzall and 4 1/2" grinder It took about 2 hours. My generator carborator had to have parts so I had a rig welder come out and weld in the outriggers back in. It cost $120.00. Welding took three hours including driving time.
I am working on finding leaks now before I put the new floor back in. I have my generator fixed now and can have electricity at my storage place and will soon be getting the rest of the floor sections out of the channel. I did determine that I could tale a long medium tooth blade on the sawzall and cut the bolts in the channel without damaging the channel.
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Old 06-22-2011, 01:58 PM   #7
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1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
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I'm rebuilding a '63...

This is about to the point were the floor gets exposed.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...tml#post948439

I will note that my '63 has the belly pan wrapped up and bet over the "C" channel, making it just as easy to remove the entire shell as to just remove the belly pan
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Old 06-23-2011, 04:01 PM   #8
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1964 26' Overlander
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So after closer inspection, it looks like I may have a bigger job than I had envisioned. But isn't that always the case with projects like these?
I am not 100% positive, but it looks like my belly pan wraps up as well. The belly will have to be removed due to damage and ease of access for repairs so it looks like this may become a skin off resto. Ugh! But, I think it will make things easier in the future. I have photos of the rot and damages but am having trouble getting them into my computer. Post them when I can. Does anyone know of a good thread that shows the details that go into removing the skin safely. Thanks for all the help.
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Old 06-24-2011, 08:47 AM   #9
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Go for it! Once you get over the "oh crap feeling" its not so bad. Thanks to these forums you will find the info and encouragement you will need. "I get by with a little help from my friends."
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Old 06-24-2011, 09:06 AM   #10
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Hey Guenther welcome to the forums! I live about 45 miles to the North of you. There are many different approaches to Airstream renovations. Shell off, shell on, cut and patch, hack jobs and the polished turd! Most will tell you the only way to do a complete restoration is to do the "Full Monte" shell off. I agree fully with doing the shell off method as the most effective way to ensure the time, money and effort you put in this restoration is going to last a very, very long time.
There are many great "shell off" resto threads. Of particular interest is HiHoAgRV's Overlander thread above. Good luck and we're here to help any way we can.
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Old 06-26-2011, 09:25 PM   #11
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1964 26' Overlander
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Thanks everyone for the info! I will keep everyone in the loop as things move along. You will be seeing more questions from me for sure.

Thanks,

Michael
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