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Old 08-06-2007, 10:18 PM   #15
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Some Pictures under the bathroom floor

Attached are 3 pictures showing the condition under the bathroom floor.

I just got the belly pan down but I haven't been able to remove it from under the axle area ... I thought I found all the rivets, it seems loose but it won't budge. Any idea on how to convince it to slide out, short of removing the axles?

Tom
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Old 08-08-2007, 09:05 PM   #16
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pictures

Wabiteer and Plossl;

I haven't forgotten about the pictures, but it will be next week before I get a chance to get them all together. I will probably put them in the personal photo gallery since there is a size limit on the ones that go into posts.

Wabiteer, I think your idea about keeping the changes reversible is a good one. I have wondered why the black water tank is so much bigger than the grey, maybe campsites and policies about grey water have changed since the 70's??

I think we will keep both tanks for awhile, although we have used the park facilities as Plossl has done to minimize the hassle. I just like to keep the options open in case we do go to a place where we have to be more self-sufficient.
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Old 08-08-2007, 10:45 PM   #17
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I wish my '72 had a grey tank. To have one retrofitted will cost me between $3,000-4,000. In the meantime, I use my 22 gallon Blue Tote.

If you have both tanks, keep them. Having either one removed will diminish it's resale value and reduce the options you have for camping and travel.
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Old 08-08-2007, 11:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mello mike
I wish my '72 had a grey tank. To have one retrofitted will cost me between $3,000-4,000. In the meantime, I use my 22 gallon Blue Tote.

If you have both tanks, keep them. Having either one removed will diminish it's resale value and reduce the options you have for camping and travel.
A good Airstream shop can put a gray tank in a 72 for $1000 to $1500 dollars.

Andy
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Old 08-09-2007, 06:25 AM   #19
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Belly Pan

Tom,

Just roll it up and push it under the rear axle. You should be able to get it far enough out of your way. That's what I did. (I thought I had a picture but I guess not.
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Old 08-29-2007, 12:00 PM   #20
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It's an epidemic!

I'm guessing that there are a lot of us out there with back floor issues. I'll be tackling ours in a couple of weeks. I'm not looking forward to what I'll probably find under there. I see where a water pipe came disconnected from the shut-off valve for the toilet. I think it's the culprit. The entire back three feet of wood is missing!! It was rotten enough for the PO to remove it I guess. Wish he would have replaced it. The rest of the floor is solid (seemingly) though. Thanks everyone for the posts here. Your veteran knowledge is indispensable. I'll add more once Ive torn into this project.
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Old 08-29-2007, 12:34 PM   #21
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The old saying holds true...

"There are two types of old Airstreams...those with rear floor issues and those with rear floor issues that have been repaired."

There is a third category, but they're extremely rare.
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Old 08-29-2007, 12:55 PM   #22
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I'll also be tackeling the rear floor rot problem within the next couple of weeks in my '68 Overlander. In addition, some of the plastic bathroom vanity parts have cracked. Is the consensus to fiberglass the cracks from the inside to add strength? These cracks are limited to the area around the door under the sink which accesses the converter.
Also, about the grey water issue, are more RV parks requiring grey water capture? If so, this might be a good time to retrofit our older Airstreams when we have the floor out of the way. For those of you who have done this, where did you locate the grey water tank (if you're keeping the black water tank).
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Old 08-29-2007, 03:30 PM   #23
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Ron, I'm think I'm very lucky to be in that rare 3rd catagory! I'm now into the bathroom of my brand new '67 Safari. Fixtures out, tile out, and the plywood looks nice. Can't believe it because I've read all the horror stories I could stand before I actually got to the back. If I'd have read those before I bought the Safari, I would have been wayyy more careful making the purchase. Just lucked out. I've peeled back the belly pan and it looks good so far.I'll know more this week end. Looks like I may replace the black water tank though.
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Old 08-29-2007, 09:09 PM   #24
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10brink,

Consider yourself extremely blessed!
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Old 08-29-2007, 09:59 PM   #25
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Quote:
A good Airstream shop can put a gray tank in a 72 for $1000 to $1500 dollars.
An even better Airstream shop can do it for less. Just to give you an idea (and I know it's for my black tank, but a tank is a tank is a tank; figuring out where it goes shouldn't cost a dime, especially if the shop has done it before) South Jersey RV had a new polyethylene black tank fabricated and a new galvanized holding pan fabricated and installed for me. Removal of old tank and reinstallation of new tank and buttoned up was 7.25hrs of labor@ $59/hr. New aluminum underbelly was $49.90, new holding tank probes were $13.23, styrofoam for pan liner was $7.00, new 3" waste valve was $14.19, new holding tank was $279.00 and the metal to fabricate the new galvanized pan liner was $18.50.

Total price: $809.57

Shop around to get the best price, and ask questions, ie: how long will the work take, may I have a written estimate, etc. Look at work currently being done in the shop. If they won't let you look, don't give them your business. Excuses about insurance liabilities are garbage.

Ask the shop for a list of past/current customers; talk to them and see if they're satisfied. If the shop won't give you references, walk away; again, excuses about privacy are garbage...many customers give the ok to be listed as a reference.

Google the shop and see if there are/have been lawsuits against the company from dissatisfied customers for lack of services rendered.

Once you're satisfied with the legitimacy of a shop, open your checkbook

Frederic
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Old 08-30-2007, 09:42 AM   #26
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Parts prices.

Those parts prices and labor were very accurate, 15 years ago.

The cheapest Thetford waste valve today costs more than $50.00.

Of course you can purchase cheap parts from Big Lots and K-Mart but then that makes an Airstream a "hybrid," which is certainly acceptable to some owners, but not to the vast majority of owners.

Keeping an Airstream product within the Airstream family of designs, does indeed cost more money.

But, you also get what you pay for.

Andy
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Old 08-30-2007, 10:08 AM   #27
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Very well said Andy
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Old 08-30-2007, 10:21 AM   #28
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Frederic, in some areas, that hourly rate is horribly low. Most places around here won't touch an RV or car for less than $85 an hour, and mostly higher.
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