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Old 04-09-2007, 07:58 PM   #15
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1978 31' Sovereign
springfield , Missouri
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Our 78 AS has the U channel with the C channel underneath as shown in the picture above.

I have floor rot on the left side of the trailer, from the wall to the frame rail. The floor rot is in the 'front room back to the refrigerator, and from the water heater to the rear wheel well, road side.

The floor appears to be 1/2 inch plywood. It "gives" when walked on, particularly in the front.

I got the trailer gutted except for the rear bath.

How do I get the floor in the C channel?
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Old 04-09-2007, 08:05 PM   #16
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Best I can find out from drawings or from Airstream, is probably 1982.

We have installed it on older coaches that had rear end separation, but had to adjust the curve, by cutting a few slots in it, but certainly not like the photo from wannaroam.

Andy
Andy,

Should I co with new C-Channel in my 68 Safari since the shell is off, and I am getting a new floor? What would the price be?

Steve
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Old 04-10-2007, 10:29 AM   #17
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Andy,

Should I co with new C-Channel in my 68 Safari since the shell is off, and I am getting a new floor? What would the price be?

Steve
New style front and rear floor channels do not match the contour of the shell.

If you wish to still use the new style, you must slit the channel to change the contour.

The floor channels must be cut "in half" so they can be shipped UPS. If not, then they must go motor freight, which costs more then the channel.

Same is true for main bows.

Andy
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Old 04-10-2007, 05:29 PM   #18
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1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
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Originally Posted by rlee1120
Our 78 AS has the U channel with the C channel underneath as shown in the picture above.

I have floor rot on the left side of the trailer, from the wall to the frame rail. The floor rot is in the 'front room back to the refrigerator, and from the water heater to the rear wheel well, road side.

The floor appears to be 1/2 inch plywood. It "gives" when walked on, particularly in the front.

I got the trailer gutted except for the rear bath.

How do I get the floor in the C channel?
I think that your plywood floor should be 3/4" thick. My 1973 31' is and I believe the trend continued (Please chime in here Andy if you know different). Originally the plywood sheets were installed with their lengh across from side to side. You have correctly noted that it is not an easy thing to get new sheets back in that way. It is possible to get the two curved end sheets in cross-wise from inside if you start with them on the diagonal and turn them into position. This requires that the next sheet in line from the end not yet be in place yet though. If you want to install the rest of the sheets cross-wise you would have to carefully spread the body apart. I personally did not feel at all comfortable with that approach. Instead I put the new sheets (besides the end ones) in length-wise of the frame. I added a plywood spline under the joint (in between frame cross members) something like 4" to 6" wide which I attached to the lengthwise sheets with glue and screws. While I believe that it is true that plywood is a little stiffer in the long direction than it is in the short direction I don't think that the difference is enough to worry about.

One other thing that you might not have found out yet is that the frame cross-members under the current plywood joints are 5/8" lower than the top of the rest of the frame. Again this is the case in 1973 at least. The reason for this is that there are factory installed plywood splines at these joints to help re-enforce the connections of the plywood sheets to the frame along these cross-members. Something to look for when you get further into your floor work.

If you have not yet found the wealth of information here in the forum regarding floor replacement let me suggest that you start with the following thread.

http://www.airforums.com/forum...-done-428.html

My post number 10 in that thread also gives some links to other threads about floor replacment. There is a pointer there to a list of tools and some techniques that I followed. Other people had a lot to say about the topic too.

By the way - on my 1973 unit it does have the c-channel/u-channel combination but not on the corners themselves. They are just the u-channel in that vintage trailer.

Malcolm
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Old 04-11-2007, 06:19 PM   #19
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1978 31' Sovereign
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I am going to go with the patch work, down the side repair, with sheeting underneath. I think I read a post with pictures about this technique.

Found the cause of the rotted floor during the rain the past two days, I sat in the trailer and watched it rain. The water rolled down the side of the trialer and entered the beltstrip at bottom of the trailer (the piece with the blue plastic in it) and went into the trailer.

I think the belly pan sides overlap the wall instead of the wall overlapping them.

I think I read here somewhere not to use silicone on airstreams. Any feedback?

These forums are a great help and also the folks at Inland RV are a great help. They are patient when I can and have a lot of knowledge! I will be a repeat customer!

Jim and Regina
78 31' Sovereign
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Old 04-11-2007, 07:02 PM   #20
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1978 30' Argosy 30
tappan , New York
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I have a 78 30' argosy that I am replacing the floor in totally.It had 15/32 4 ply plywood originally and was only captured at the sides of the trailer, not the front or rear.Front sheet easy to slide in. Used 15/32 exterior 5 ply.Captured sheets I made a frame that sits towards the both edges of the plywood and has a threaded rod mid span between. Drilled on hole center of the sheet with a plate and nut underneath and tighten up and warp the plywood enough to drop in at the edges of the extruded lip and then loosen ti up and work it into the track.Helps to run a roundover bit on edge of the plywood.Have done one sheet at a time only 2 more to go. Frame was flush all the way across. bruce
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Old 04-11-2007, 07:45 PM   #21
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Bruce,

That sounds like an interesting approach. Obviously it works if you are doing it. You are certainly right about it being a good idea to nock the square corners off of the edges of the plywood sheet. It does indeed help with getting the sheets to fit into the channel. That is intersting that your frame does not have any lower cross-members. I guess the Argosy product line did a few things differently.

Thank for sharing your approach. Do you have any photos of the work underway?

Malcolm
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Old 04-11-2007, 07:49 PM   #22
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I think I see what you are doing,
ya gotta picture?
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