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Old 02-16-2013, 01:00 AM   #15
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1973 25' Tradewind
Beautiful , Oregon
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Thanks You technique was very helpful. I am in the process of doing it now. Mine is not coming out so neatly with odd screw thrown in for the lousy patching along the way. Being covered with thin set or some kind of fix all type product doesn't help

Below are some pictures of work in progress. I cut inside the frame with the Skil saw and finished off the line with the newly acquired Fein Multimaster. I never gave the tool much thought but really like it. It worked well to cut into the belly pan material also.

There is a flat bar in one of the pics showing prying up wood. It ended up pulling though the shanks of the bolts and screws along with the ply. You can also see the "Cats Paw" I used to lift up on the screw when it was spinning around stripped out.

Obviously I have a ways to go.

Tony
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:35 AM   #16
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
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I foud that when using the hole saw method, the biggest challenge was to keep the bit from chattering since I had to remove the center pilot to clear the bolt head. solved this by finding a scrap piece big enough to stand on then drilling through with the saw. then place this as a guide over the bolt head, stand on it to stabilize and drill happily away. If you go until you just kiss the frame the plugs pop out even easier.
Wish I could take credit for this idea myself but I found it on the forum somewhere
tim
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Old 02-16-2013, 11:48 AM   #17
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1973 25' Tradewind
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OH! That is thinking. I had the pilot bit and that is why I switched to a larger hole saw. I like the hole in a board and standing on the board solution. I should of thought of that.

Tony
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:18 AM   #18
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1967 22' Safari
West Fork , Arkansas
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Subfloor removal continues on our '67 Safari too. So far only the bath area is done. The tip to use another layer for hole saw drilling around elevator bolts will be used on the rest. Lower interior skin was removed since the subfloor goes under and is anchored to the perimeter track. We made a pattern of the curves and utility locations with the 36" wide brown contractor's paper roll before taking out the plywood and added an 1 1/4" all around to fit back under the perimeter. That probably means that we must cut the new flooring front to back and splice it back where possible in order to slide it in place. That cut would be off-center as needed to get it out of a foot traffic area. Yes, I see why others do a shell off method!

Replacement plywood will be 5/8" A/C with exterior glue secured with self tapping 1/4" trailer bolts in pre-drilled 13/64" holes bought through "The Nutty Company". Plywood will be either primed or treated with moisture resistant sealer.
Jim
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:48 PM   #19
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Hey guys, I am just starting my floor replacement. Everything is gone from the '76 Argosy 22 and I am beginning to remove the vinyl walls. Your advice and tips on the E-Blolts was super helpful but I still have one issue. The elevator bolts that are through the C Channel on the edges of the trailer are flat. They have nothing to accept a bit. Any advice on how to remove these so that I can remove my sub-floor? I am keeping this a shell on replacement...
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Old 05-17-2013, 07:42 AM   #20
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1967 22' Safari
West Fork , Arkansas
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Crabbey1, others probably have a smarter solution to cutting perimeter bolts at the C channel but I used a 4" grinder with a metal cutting wheel. In some situations the decking was so rotted that the bolt could be cut below the channel and in others the nut had to be cut off from above.
Jim
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Old 05-17-2013, 10:16 AM   #21
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1973 25' Tradewind
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Use anything it takes. The cutting wheel is your friend. I also used the multi tool show in my post above to cut a kerf up to the c channel on either side of the bolt and then cut a cross the two kerfs to allow me get the old plywood floor out ( offending bolt still remaining) and then come back and use the Multi tool to cut into the remaining plywood and bolt. I also had a vise grip, flat bar, and a chisel on stand by chop hack and pick. Not elegant but does the job. It is real work.

Good Luck

Tony
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:18 PM   #22
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1972 23' Safari
Camas , Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crabbey1 View Post
Hey guys, I am just starting my floor replacement. Everything is gone from the '76 Argosy 22 and I am beginning to remove the vinyl walls. Your advice and tips on the E-Blolts was super helpful but I still have one issue. The elevator bolts that are through the C Channel on the edges of the trailer are flat. They have nothing to accept a bit. Any advice on how to remove these so that I can remove my sub-floor? I am keeping this a shell on replacement...
My belly pan was off for removal of the E bolts through the chanel. I was able to grab hold of the nuts on the bottom side with vise grips and slowly rock back and forth till the bolt weakened and just snapped. Most where rusted so not much effort. On the left over bolt I used a punch from the bottom tapped them out.
One thing that was hard to get at was the front e bolts and a couple what looked like giant pop rivets, I spent a good part of a day removing those.
Today we recieved our new E bolts for the floor, we hope to have the new sub floor in place by early next week.
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:16 AM   #23
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1973 25' Tradewind
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Did you get 2" I got mine from VTS and failed to get the longer ones ( just the 1 1/2") which are needed through the cross members with 3/4" as a scab beneath the joint. Buying them local was expensive.

Sounds like you are moving along. Good Luck

Tony
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Old 05-18-2013, 08:03 AM   #24
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1972 23' Safari
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yes we did get the longer ones from VTS. Locally the same e bolts are at least twice the cost. Makes the cost of shipping worth it.

thanks good luck to you too.
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:58 PM   #25
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1976 Argosy 28
Milton , Ontario
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Multitool...

Crabbey1,

I agree with Tony S' comment about using a multitool to get at those hidden bolts.

Looks like you and I are doing the same work. We took one full and 1/2 sheet of plywoood out yesturday and there are only a few bolts that now need to be removed

It looks a lot easier now that the rotten floor is out of the way.

I plan to use threaded metal screws to hold everything down, once I'm ready.

Chris
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:44 PM   #26
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Floor removal is going well.

I wanted to let you guys know that your tips were very helpful. I have never tackled a project like this and it is going very smoothly. Here is my method...

I purchased an impact driver. I was the key to getting up all the E-Bolts in the main portion of the floor. Only 2 would not come out and stripped. I am just using a Rotary Tool to cut them off.

Once the main floor bolts were out I moved on the the C Channel Bolts and screws. All the screws just came out no problem. The bolts in the C-Channel were another beast though. I used a hammer and a wood chisel to cut out notchs around the bolts. Then I used a circular saw to cut the wood in to manageable pieces and pulled them out one by one.

Once all the wood of a section was removed I chisel out and remained wood around a bolt and used the rotary tool to cut off the bolt.

Then I reassembled the wood pieces like a puzzle to use as a template for the new floor piece. I used Pressure Treated 1/2" Ply for the new sub floor. Once I had the floor piece cut with all holes needed for plumbing, etc. I brought it in to the trailer, lined it up and marked where the frame laid. That way I could saw straight down the center and have the wood from each section be supported by the frame...

That is it. Long winded, I know, but easier than it sounded. Again, thanks for all the tips. Tomorrow I will be painting the frame with POR-15, laying down the new insulation and bolting down the floor with the self tapping E-Bolts from Vintage Trailer Supply. I will take photos so you can see the progress!
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Old 05-29-2013, 06:54 PM   #27
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DO NOT USE PRESSURE TREATED PLYWOOD!!!!
the chemicals used in the pressure treating process will corrode your aluminum skin badly wherever they come into contact.
you will not be happy and you will get to do it over.
tim
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Old 05-30-2013, 11:05 AM   #28
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Pressure Treating = Bad?

I read about the fact that Pressure Treated wood can corrode Aluminum, but I also read a lot of misinformation as well. From what I understood, if you let the wood fully dry out, Seal the edges and use coated bolts and screws, then you should be in business...

Have you used Pressure Treated lumber in such an application yourself? Or have you seen first hand the effects? Most people seem to be repeating this idea but have never actually tested the theory.

Anyway, thanks for your reply. Maybe I will rethink the choice of lumber. I t just sucks that I dropped $200 on this round...
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