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Old 04-01-2010, 10:54 AM   #1
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Remodel Bathroom '71 Overlander

I am trying to remove the bathroom floor. I am down to removing the floor but am stuck. How to you remove the flooring. I have searched and search but have found nothing about removing the floor (search engine gives way to many choices to sort thru).

Thanks in advance
Mel
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Old 04-01-2010, 12:49 PM   #2
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If someone has put in a one-piece floor it needs to be peeled & scraped off the plywood, same goes for any vinyl tile etc..

I also had the joy of facing rusted and plain nasty carpet tack strip - like herding a dozen rabid bats. Be careful, wear gloves if the plywood has any sanitary issues!

On the plywood floor itself on my 1973 it had large self-tapping Philips or cross-point screws that had sunk into the wood and each one required attention to clean out accumulated gunk before a bit would grip to turn the fastener out.

I found a bit chucked in a long armed socket wrench made for the proper persuasion to get the screw started - then a 1/2" electric drill w/ bit chucked in to spin it the rest of the way out.

You may need to cut the rear panel into two pieces to extricate it - if you scab on a couple of boards with screws, remove and mark the screw bores and then cut with a shallow circular saw so once you have the two sheets out by replacing the scab pieces it gives you a good template to START to layout the new sheet. I found the original floor was a sloppy fit only after I had cut the new sheet and wish I had used a DIFFERENT template to get more accurate location on the curved sections of the rear shell....
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Old 04-12-2010, 06:51 PM   #3
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Ok - I got the bathroom subfloor removed - What type of plywood would be the best choice for replacement. I will be sealing the edges and an extra 6 inches inside. I plan on using cork flooring as the new flooring. Any help will be appreciated. I will be posting pics as soon as I can.
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Old 04-12-2010, 07:36 PM   #4
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If you look at the ply count of the wood a standard rule would be the more layers the better... so 7 is better than 5, etc.

You want an exterior grade plywood that is made for humid locations. I spent $85 for a sheet of marine grade plywood and think now I could've done just fine with a quality construction exterior grade - but I just replaced the one rearmost sheet and I splurged a little bit.

Often the private lumberyards have better line of merchandise than the big box depot style stores - call around or drop in and chat with with a manager to learn more.
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Old 04-20-2010, 06:07 PM   #5
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Any suggestions on where I can get another cover for this window (Pic 1). The slide down part is all broken. How is the best way to repair this broken part with the pen stuck in it (Pic 2)? Last but not least - any suggestion on how to repair this mess (Pic 3 & 4)?
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Old 04-20-2010, 06:12 PM   #6
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Pictures did not upload

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Old 04-20-2010, 06:14 PM   #7
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After looking at pic 2 it might need an explanation - this is the piece that goes on the kitchen window for the blind. The one end (as you can see) is all broken, also the bottom is split. The sliding cover in pic 1 is broken in various places and it is hard to close. In pics 3 and 4, the PO screwed this in place. I have the inside all removed and figured this is the time to repair this. Finding an alum. welder has been nerve racking. Is there anything that would do the repair right and I could do it myself. Getting tired of waiting on on others to "GET ROUND TO IT". I am still trying to get the black water tank holder done. At this rate I will be able to use the trailer sometime in 2020 LOL.
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Old 04-22-2010, 12:25 PM   #8
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I have another picture of the rear section, what is the best plywood to fill the hole, LOL.
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Old 04-22-2010, 04:18 PM   #9
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I used 3/4" ACX plywood for my floor replacement. Definitely go to a good lumberyard, they have better wood and typically better prices than the box stores.
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Old 04-22-2010, 04:29 PM   #10
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Smile

Thank you very much utee94 - short and to the point. I know what I need and where to go.

Thanks Again
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Old 04-22-2010, 05:07 PM   #11
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Have you given any thought to the pressure treated plywood? 3/4" of coarse.
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Old 04-22-2010, 05:46 PM   #12
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I used a product called Dry Ply (gueranteed never to rot worp or twist) Did a Fine Job for me (lowes)
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Old 04-22-2010, 06:00 PM   #13
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I am open to all suggestions - I will be ready for the new subfloor as soon as my Black Water tank holder is ready.
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Old 04-22-2010, 06:12 PM   #14
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Pressure treated is an absolute "NO" - the metal salts used as preservative eats aluminum rapidly.
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