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Old 04-02-2014, 11:11 PM   #1
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1961 16' Bambi
grass valley , California
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Rear Tie Down Picture

I am doing a rear floor repair on a 1961 Bambi. I got everything secure except the rear tie down. Problem is, I don't see the tie down in the middle of the trailer connected to the frame from the inside. I have searched the forum and didn't see a picture of this tie down. Does anyone have a picture of the tie down on a trailer of my vintage? Thanks!
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Old 04-02-2014, 11:30 PM   #2
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1957 30' Sovereign of the Road
1959 28' Ambassador
1949 24' Limited
Peru , New York
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I am doing a rear floor repair on a 1961 Bambi. I got everything secure except the rear tie down. Problem is, I don't see the tie down in the middle of the trailer connected to the frame from the inside. I have searched the forum and didn't see a picture of this tie down. Does anyone have a picture of the tie down on a trailer of my vintage? Thanks!
It didn't exist on your era of trailer. The rear plate was added around the time of the body change in 69. It tends to corrode out the skin anyway, as it suffers from galvanic corrosion. You don't need it on your trailer.
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Old 04-04-2014, 01:32 AM   #3
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Thank you so much Colin! I also want to,say I am enjoying reading Restoring A Dream. You are the man!
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Old 04-04-2014, 01:37 AM   #4
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Colin ... Did they bolt down the C channel to the outriggers on the 1961?
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Old 04-04-2014, 06:18 AM   #5
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1957 30' Sovereign of the Road
1959 28' Ambassador
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Colin ... Did they bolt down the C channel to the outriggers on the 1961?
Yes,…………..in every year of Airstream production, actually.
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Old 04-04-2014, 01:43 PM   #6
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Thanks again Colin! I guess I am going to have to start over on one part of the floor. Better safe than sorry! I keep learning!
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Old 04-04-2014, 01:57 PM   #7
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1957 30' Sovereign of the Road
1959 28' Ambassador
1949 24' Limited
Peru , New York
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Thanks again Colin! I guess I am going to have to start over on one part of the floor. Better safe than sorry! I keep learning!
Keep in mind that you own one of the most sought after Airstreams ever built, so make sure it'll last another 50+ years.
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Old 04-04-2014, 02:43 PM   #8
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That is my goal!
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Old 04-13-2014, 06:16 PM   #9
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1969 31' Sovereign
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Colin,


You seem to be the "go to guy" for info so answer me this Batman, are the walls on my 68 International double wall? I need to rivet some ells to the side wall to extend the u-channel holding it. It seems to flex when moving over tough roads and it actually jumps out of the track. It's a bear to put back and I need a fix. I want to rivet the aluminum ells to the side wall but hesitate until I know its a double wall. ???
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Old 04-13-2014, 08:27 PM   #10
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Colin,


You seem to be the "go to guy" for info so answer me this Batman, are the walls on my 68 International double wall? I need to rivet some ells to the side wall to extend the u-channel holding it. It seems to flex when moving over tough roads and it actually jumps out of the track. It's a bear to put back and I need a fix. I want to rivet the aluminum ells to the side wall but hesitate until I know its a double wall. ???
Thanks for the kind words. I want to make sure what you're describing is what I am envisioning. The interior skins on your trailer are vinyl coated aluminum, pop riveted to various ribs & stringers which are intern, buck riveted to the exterior skin. The wood bulkheads/walls are typically a single layer of 1/4" veneered plywood. The plywood is located on the interior skins by friction fit into an aluminum "F" channel extrusion riveted to the interior skin. On some trailers, there are pop rivets that go through the F channel & the plywood, however as the F channel is not very deep, the wood edge usually breaks off where the rivet goes through.
The bulkheads are held into the F channels by screws through the top & bottom of hard wood edge moldings attaching to the ceiling & floor. As the trailer moves, it flexes, which is normal, however if it flexes too much, the bulkheads will pop out of the F channel.

What you are seeing is a symptom, not the problem. The problem can be only one issue or a combination of issues. The most common being sagged out old axles with limited travel, causing extra stress on the semi monocoque structure, rotted sub floors allowing chassis/body separation, rough road conditions, too high a pressure or load ratings in the tires (tires are an integral part of a suspension system) & rusted out or fatigue cracked outriggers.

So, the answer to your question really is not to add "ells" as a means to attach the bulkheads to the walls, but to repair the underlying problems. Keep in mind that there are many Airstream's that never experience the problem you are describing.

Good luck with your assessment,

Colin
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Old 04-14-2014, 12:10 PM   #11
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1969 31' Sovereign
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Colin,


Wow, I was looking for a simple answer and you gave me the full Monte. Thank you for all the information. This unit sat for 8 years in a dry environment so I don't see the rust issue but the sitting in one location may have put some stress on the axles. I'll have them checked by someone that knows what their doing. On the other hand, we drove 1200 miles to bring it home and hit lots of bad concrete.


I still may add a couple of angles to keep the bulkheads from jumping out. They are in the rear bathroom and not visible to only those that sit and think.


Regards, popacliff
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Old 04-14-2014, 12:46 PM   #12
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1959 28' Ambassador
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Colin,


Wow, I was looking for a simple answer and you gave me the full Monte. Thank you for all the information. This unit sat for 8 years in a dry environment so I don't see the rust issue but the sitting in one location may have put some stress on the axles. I'll have them checked by someone that knows what their doing. On the other hand, we drove 1200 miles to bring it home and hit lots of bad concrete.


I still may add a couple of angles to keep the bulkheads from jumping out. They are in the rear bathroom and not visible to only those that sit and think.


Regards, popacliff
Torsion axles of your vintage almost invariably require replacement due to aged rubber cords. Try jacking the trailer up & see how much the torsion arm drops. Also check out how tough it is to fit the tires out from between the drum & wheel well. When I go on a "recovery mission", I often have to deflate the tires in order to remove them from the trailer, plus let the air out of the replacement tire until its fitted to the drum. We have replaced many axles at my shop due to these & other issues.
Thanks,
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Old 04-15-2014, 07:17 AM   #13
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1969 31' Sovereign
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Colin,


I had the tires replaced when I picked up the trailer. They had no trouble getting the tires off. They used a garage tire jack so I don't know if that would have reveled any of the axle issues. The unit was on jacks while it was being used as an extra bedroom so all the unit wt. was not on the axles. I can have the axles looked at when I have some other issue dealt with later this week. Might need to call you for replacements. I don't see myself driving to New York though to get axle work done as much as you guys sound like the place to go.


Thanks again for the reply and advice. This forum has some super people on it.


PS: Do you advertise on this forum? How does one do that commercially?
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