I'm getting closer to trying this every time I think about it. One thing is, I don't have the side bulge that you describe. However, if I jacked the frame back up like I had it before riveting, then raised it a little more, taking out the slight gap between the bottom of the skin and the he bumper, as well as the gap at the top (left by the saw kerf from cutting the skin), I think there would be less than an inch I could gain of "tightening" the skin. And I don't think that would be enough to straighten out the door.
Second thing is, in reference to the repair job failing while in transit-- I would worry about that at all. I couldn't believe how solid that system is when you have it all riveted in place! I jumped on the bumper and the thing didn't even budge, whereas you could move it with one foot before.
What I'm thinking about is putting jacks where I had them without removing any rivets, jacking up carefully to see if I can get to where the door looks right without breaking something, and then measure how far I had to raise it. This should tell me whether we are talking an inch or less, or whether there's another problem to fix. I would say quite possibly after several years of the edge of the floor rotting away, allowing the rest of the floor and frame to hang under all that weight, the old frame just isn't as strong as it used to be. It probably needs some help remembering its original shape.
Thanks for shooting me all the great information and ideas!
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