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Old 05-08-2015, 03:28 PM   #15
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1982 27' Excella
Huntsville , Texas
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I recently purchased a 1982 excella. I know the axles are different on an airstream and the book says do not jack it up on the axles. When I crawl under it, the axles look bent. I have to imagine that someone over the years have jacked it up using the axles. Is this a significant issue? What action if any should I take?
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Old 05-08-2015, 05:18 PM   #16
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I recently purchased a 1982 excella. I know the axles are different on an airstream and the book says do not jack it up on the axles. When I crawl under it, the axles look bent. I have to imagine that someone over the years have jacked it up using the axles. Is this a significant issue? What action if any should I take?

Nope, your axles are fine. I know it sounds strange but they are actually bent to align them. Pretty much every Airstream you look under will exhibit some arc to the axle housings.

Now it is possible that your axles are shot. The dura torque features rubber rods as part of the axle assembly and they tend to age out by 25 years or so. There is a nice article posted in the Inland RV web site about how to determine their condition.

But the curve is as it should be.

Mike
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Old 05-09-2015, 05:44 PM   #17
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Smile Thanks for the information

Thanks for the information
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Old 05-09-2015, 09:20 PM   #18
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1975 31' Sovereign
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What gets these trailers is rough roads and worn out axles.


...My goal was to lift until I had the bow in the sides over the wheels gone.

I was mostly successful.

If I remember I will shoot some pics tomorrow.

This DID straighten the trailer, frame, shell, and everything.

1/2 Ton 4WD Truck, 72 Sovereign Hensley Arrow




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Old 05-09-2015, 09:45 PM   #19
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1975 31' Sovereign
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I'm getting closer to trying this every time I think about it. One thing is, I don't have the side bulge that you describe. However, if I jacked the frame back up like I had it before riveting, then raised it a little more, taking out the slight gap between the bottom of the skin and the he bumper, as well as the gap at the top (left by the saw kerf from cutting the skin), I think there would be less than an inch I could gain of "tightening" the skin. And I don't think that would be enough to straighten out the door.

Second thing is, in reference to the repair job failing while in transit-- I would worry about that at all. I couldn't believe how solid that system is when you have it all riveted in place! I jumped on the bumper and the thing didn't even budge, whereas you could move it with one foot before.

What I'm thinking about is putting jacks where I had them without removing any rivets, jacking up carefully to see if I can get to where the door looks right without breaking something, and then measure how far I had to raise it. This should tell me whether we are talking an inch or less, or whether there's another problem to fix. I would say quite possibly after several years of the edge of the floor rotting away, allowing the rest of the floor and frame to hang under all that weight, the old frame just isn't as strong as it used to be. It probably needs some help remembering its original shape.

Thanks for shooting me all the great information and ideas!




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Old 05-09-2015, 10:33 PM   #20
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You might be surprised how much difference raising the back up an inch can make.

When I did this to my trailer the shell was firmly attached to the frame. I bent everything at one time.


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Old 05-10-2015, 09:15 PM   #21
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Thanks!
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