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Old 03-10-2008, 10:30 PM   #1
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Rear floor replacement

Well, I've been reading the forum for about 6-7 months now since I bought my 72 tradewind. I've had a chance to do some minor repairs using the threads that have been posted. Without this forum, I probably would have been inclined to get rid of my trailer, but with all the information here, it makes everything seem a little less scary.

I've jumped in with both feet now and I am getting ready to replace the rear floor panel since it has already started removing itself. This started of with just replacing the black tank, but as soon as it came out, I knew I couldn't put it back in without fixing the floor. I now have a nearly empty rear half of a trailer, with only one big whoops. (I busted a hole in the sink while trying to get it out. The sun really made the plastic brittle.)

Hopefully when I start pulling up the floor and banana wrap, I won't find more work , but I've seen all the other threads, so I'm not too optimistic. I'll try attaching pics and updating as I move along.


Again, thanks to everyone for posting all the information that has been making this a little less painful mentally.
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Old 03-10-2008, 10:45 PM   #2
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Welcome!
Like you, the forum has saved me a ton - both in terms of money, frustration and time.
Nice to have you here.
Dave
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Old 03-10-2008, 11:01 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olielulu
Well, I've been reading the forum for about 6-7 months now since I bought my 72 tradewind. I've had a chance to do some minor repairs using the threads that have been posted. Without this forum, I probably would have been inclined to get rid of my trailer, but with all the information here, it makes everything seem a little less scary.

I've jumped in with both feet now and I am getting ready to replace the rear floor panel since it has already started removing itself. This started of with just replacing the black tank, but as soon as it came out, I knew I couldn't put it back in without fixing the floor. I now have a nearly empty rear half of a trailer, with only one big whoops. (I busted a hole in the sink while trying to get it out. The sun really made the plastic brittle.)

Hopefully when I start pulling up the floor and banana wrap, I won't find more work , but I've seen all the other threads, so I'm not too optimistic. I'll try attaching pics and updating as I move along.


Again, thanks to everyone for posting all the information that has been making this a little less painful mentally.
Your brittle bath sink can be fixed.

The holding tank is available from us, but made with fiberglass, that eliminates the cracking problems.

Andy
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Old 03-11-2008, 10:52 AM   #4
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Your brittle bath sink can be fixed.

Andy
What is the proper way to fix it? I applied some fiberglass resin to the back side and it appears to be sticking good and did not attack the plastic. Is fiberglassing the best or is there a better or easier method? The PO cut these two knotches out of the toilet surround to put in a house toilet tank and I do not have the pieces that he removed. Of course I will refinish them when repaired.
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Old 03-12-2008, 10:41 PM   #5
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sink repair

Andy, Is there a thread somewhere on sink repair, or do you know a good way to repair it? I was thinking I was going to just have to make a whole new sink and counter out of something else (stainless maybe)

Thanks
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Old 03-13-2008, 12:58 AM   #6
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Olielulu, here are some ideas/info.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f446...ink-37033.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f38/...ink-37030.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f446...ned-34003.html
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Old 03-14-2008, 01:20 PM   #7
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the work grows

Well, (I know Ė a deep subject for such a shallow mind) I got back to removing more of the stuff in preparation to replace the rear floor, and at some point during the process, I decided that it would be easier to just remove everything from the trailer and fix all the little things. Plus while I was out there, it just happened to be raining up here in the northwest, and I was finding signs of water leaks. Since I have to take half the trailer apart to fix the floor, why not just take the whole thing apart so that I can spend a lot more money?
The good news is Ė when I pulled the banana skins off the rear corners, the frame and outriggers looked good with the exception of one of the streetside outriggers that was below the water heater that was leaking for who-knows-how-long. It was almost completely rotted away.
Insulation. I have read a lot of the threads on complete restorations, and noticed that a lot of them put in a silver insulation. Is that the bubble wrap insulation that I have seen at the home stores? Iíve looked at it and canít find an R value on it anywhere. It canít be too much unless you layer it a bunch of times.
Flooring. I measured the flooring and it measures exactly ĺĒ. Iíve read everywhere that the flooring should be 5/8Ē. Is this just a dimensional thing like a 2 x 4 is not actually 2Ē x 4Ē ? Iíll probably answer my own question when I go to the lumber store. Iím going to try and get the marine grade plywood. Iíve read a couple threads where they used OSB, but I found a study by the university of Oregon that shows that the OSB soaks up water at the edges and expands (everyone knows that) . It also says it is slow to soak up the water, which is good, but on the reverse, it is slow to dry after soaking up water, which will help lead to rot quicker.
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Old 03-14-2008, 01:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olielulu
I got back to removing more of the stuff in preparation to replace the rear floor, and at some point during the process, I decided that it would be easier to just remove everything from the trailer and fix all the little things. Plus while I was out there, it just happened to be raining up here in the northwest, and I was finding signs of water leaks. Since I have to take half the trailer apart to fix the floor, why not just take the whole thing apart so that I can spend a lot more money?
Careful...it's a slippery slope!

Shari
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Old 03-14-2008, 01:44 PM   #9
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"Well, while I'm at it I might as well fix this too" We've all been at this point before.
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Old 03-14-2008, 02:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olielulu
Insulation. I have read a lot of the threads on complete restorations, and noticed that a lot of them put in a silver insulation. Is that the bubble wrap insulation that I have seen at the home stores? Iíve looked at it and canít find an R value on it anywhere. It canít be too much unless you layer it a bunch of times.

do a search on the forums for "reflectix" insulation. I think thats what you're talking about. and no, you don't layer it. It works in an entirely different manner than the fuzzy pink stuff...(I can't remember the proper terms..."conduction" vs. "convection", or something along those lines), and for the most part, "r-value" just doesn't apply to it. what r-value measures, reflectix doesn't do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Olielulu
Flooring. I measured the flooring and it measures exactly ĺĒ. Iíve read everywhere that the flooring should be 5/8Ē. Is this just a dimensional thing like a 2 x 4 is not actually 2Ē x 4Ē ?
no. Older trailers (60's) used 5/8ths; (older ones might have been even thinner; not sure). 70's used 3/4. I'm not sure of the exact cutoff, but I would guess 1969, as that was the year of the major body-style change.

you might run into the "dimensional" issue, though, as today, they don't sell "3/4"...or its hard to find. 23/32 is not very much thinner, and if you place that seam cleverly, no one will likely notice.
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Old 03-14-2008, 02:31 PM   #11
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Our '56 had 5/8" plywood plus the VAT...for a total of 3/4" under the c-channels. Since we are replacing the entire floor, but not putting the new marmoleum under the c-channels, we are putting in 3/4" marine grade plywood.

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Old 03-14-2008, 03:24 PM   #12
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I recently repaired the cracks in my plastic bath parts using a sort of new product from West Marine called G/Flex and it seems to work really well. 2 part epoxy with fiberglas fabric, it's semi-flexible and appears almost indestructible. The kit was only $20 plus $3 worth of fabric. Applied to the back side then filled in the depression with Interlux Watertite Epoxy Filler (also excellent), sanded smooth and painted with Interlux Brightside Polyurethane. You can also see various bath repairs (POR frame, tank welding, etc) here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...r-38434-3.html
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Old 03-14-2008, 11:42 PM   #13
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more "progress"

So, I’ve got all the cabinetry out of the trailer and will be moving on to removing the interior sheathing and insulation to start chasing down leaks. Just removing all of the interior has pointed me into about 4 or 5 locations that I didn’t have any idea there were leaks. (luckily?? it's raining again to help me with that) I'm feeling better about going all the way. This way I will have peace of mind when I finally get to use it.

I found a couple patches in the floor up forward. they used OSB. I'm attaching a photo of why I know for sure I wont be using it. It's not the best photo, but the difference in thickness between the OSB and the old plywood is about 1/16" where the leak is. The OSB is also softer when I stab it with my screwdriver (I just did that to make me feel better .)

One of the PO's must have had enormous hands because they had to cut out an extra hole to get in to the water tank area. this was covered with a thin sheet of aluminum that was then carpeted over

I also found that the inner and outer wheel wells are pretty damaged on the curbside. I'm not worried about the inner, but I will have to replace or figure out repairs for the outer one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
"Well, while I'm at it I might as well fix this too" We've all been at this point before.
Exactly!! I only want to do this once. It really bugs my wife when she just want me to get something finished quickly and I keep finding more things to fix "while I'm there."



Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck


do a search on the forums for "reflectix" insulation. I think thats what you're talking about. and no, you don't layer it. It works in an entirely different manner than the fuzzy pink stuff...(I can't remember the proper terms..."conduction" vs. "convection", or something along those lines), and for the most part, "r-value" just doesn't apply to it. what r-value measures, reflectix doesn't do.




I guess I'll look and see if they have a web site. It doesn't look like it will do much good if it is freezing outside and I only have a layer of bubble wrap with tinfoil on it to keep me warm .

Thanks to everyone for all the encouragement.
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Old 03-16-2008, 03:49 PM   #14
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Hi! I read about the silver insulation, I've used it myself in my garage and other places. I'm pretty sure the R value is 7.5 which would probably be more than the original stuff that was in there. I'm working on a '72 27' Overlander and my floor fortunately is in fairly good condition. So far my only problem area is in the bathroom and compared to yours its MINOR! I've repaired the frame in the front in a couple of spots and I'm ready to insulate using the silver bubble wrap insulation. It's adequate for the job (it won't hold moisture). Home Depot or Lowe's sales it. Good luck! Jim Turcato
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