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07-03-2010, 11:10 PM
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#41
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2 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Webb Lake
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 46
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still working
it's been a while since I posted any progress. it has been slow, but I am finally putting on interior skins.
Before insulating, i fixed all the leaks, and tested with water hose. Amazing how many different leaks I found. I ended up insulating with Prodex insulation, using 1/2" styrofoam strips glued to the skin as spacers to keep the insulation off the outside skin. I also wrapped the insulation on all the ribs to hopefully reduce the conduction of temperatures to the inside skin and reduce the sweating.
All the electrical has been checked and repaired. New LED tail lights, clearance lights and back up lights. very bright
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07-04-2010, 07:15 PM
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#42
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Rivet Master
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,255
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Its looking good...
Malcolm
__________________
Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
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07-06-2010, 10:01 PM
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#43
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2 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Webb Lake
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 46
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Thanks Malcom.
Well I finally fot all the interior skins in. what a pain in the rear! about a third of the original rivets were not even attached to the ribs. really close, but not quite there. I'm hoping I am now at the point where I will pick up some momentum and maybe get this thing finished by fall.
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07-06-2010, 10:24 PM
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#44
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Rivet Master
1951 21' Flying Cloud
1960 24' Tradewind
Folsom
, California
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 727
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That's gotta feel good!
Thanks for posting your project.
MarkR
__________________
Aluminumbskull with Led Balloon in Drag
***
Birch Plywood and Aluminum go together like
Peanut Butter and Chocolate
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07-15-2010, 10:07 PM
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#45
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2 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Webb Lake
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 46
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still moving. put in the marmoleum floor and covered immediately with cardboard from all the other parts I have bought. onto fabricating new bulkheads. my plan is to use all the old bulkheads and cabinets as templates. I'm using tongue and groove pine planks glued together. They come in packs of five and they are approximately the same thickness as the beautiful paneling that airstream used in the 70's.
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07-16-2010, 06:55 AM
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#46
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Patriotic
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston
, Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,546
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Neat! what do you use to glue-up the paneling?
How are you going to finish the bulkheads?
__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
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07-16-2010, 08:27 AM
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#47
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Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Longmont
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 951
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Are you using the 3/8" (or so) thick wainscotting-type planks available from most Home-Depot stores? Pine plywood is also available, as an easier alternative. Good luck!
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07-17-2010, 11:13 AM
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#48
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2 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Webb Lake
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck
Neat! what do you use to glue-up the paneling?
How are you going to finish the bulkheads?
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I'm using plain old elmers white wood glue. Even with all the fancy glues out there, it is still one of the strongest longest lasting glues.
our plans are to put a light stain on then coat it with polyurethane.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tphan
Are you using the 3/8" (or so) thick wainscotting-type planks available from most Home-Depot stores? Pine plywood is also available, as an easier alternative. Good luck!
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that's the stuff. I looked at the plywood that was available, but nothing had the look I was looking for. there is no substitute for the real thing. all the plywoods I found with a wainscotting or beadboard detail, the grooves went beyond the top layer of veneer. The other bonus to doing it this way, is I can glue them together to the width I need, so I will have less waste than using 4x8 sheets.
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07-17-2010, 11:40 AM
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#49
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Patriotic
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston
, Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,546
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Is the glue-up t&g as strong as a sheet of plywood? I would have thought that a cleat on the back-side would have been necessary to insure that they stay together. (not that I have any expertise or knowledge at all; thats why I'm askin' )
I like the knotty-pine look. Someone here (I don't remember the user, and its been a long time) posted pictures of their knotty-pine interior a while back, and it looked really fabulous. very rustic, like a mountain lodge. Reminds me of the rustic cabin in which I vacationed as a kid...complete w/ Humphrey gas-lamps.
__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
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07-18-2010, 10:17 AM
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#50
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2 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Webb Lake
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 46
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plywood is definitely stronger. It has grains going both directions to help stabilize. when my panels are glued together, they flex quite a bit in the direction of the grain, but not so much perpendicular with it.
I plan on having some cleats behind the one panel in the picture since it will be a false bulkhead for the bathroom door, and I will be using plywood for the interior bulkheads in the bathroom. this plywood will strengthen these panels. most of the panels will have some sort of horizontal structure such as cabinets or bed frames that I will be able to use to add more strength once it is all put together.
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08-14-2010, 10:55 PM
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#51
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2 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Webb Lake
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 46
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I finally have all the bedroom framing together. the bathroom is still unfinished, but the walls are in, I just have to make a new cabinet and install the pooper.
While installing the piping for the sewage and grey water, my 6 year old son asked me "is that the poop dispenser?" I'm pretty sure that is what I'm going to be calling the hose connection from now on.
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08-14-2010, 11:23 PM
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#52
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Rivet Master
2005 22' Safari
Hyde Park Place
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 973
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Think how much simpler RVs would be if we didn't poop.
That's all I'm saying!
__________________
TX-16
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03-27-2011, 12:10 AM
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#53
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2 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Webb Lake
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 46
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Getting a lot closer.
Progress has been slow, but it has been progress. The bathroom is nearly complete. just need a few finishing touches. water system is completely operational and leak free (finally) New water tank level indicator works great. Propane piping was installed and leak free. I even got to use the oven because the power went out at our house. I have developed a problem with the furnace though. it was working fine, then just stopped working. haven't taken the time to do a lot of troubleshooting, but it's not the gas pressure, and the intake and exhaust are not blocked.
Now that the bathroom is nearly done, I'm moving to the beds. I haven't figured out what type and thickness to use for the foam padding. I'm thinking around 5 or 6 inches thick. My wife is not excited about doing the upholstery.
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03-27-2011, 12:18 AM
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#54
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2 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Webb Lake
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 46
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I guess the pictures didn't load. I guess I'll try again tomorrow
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03-27-2011, 05:34 AM
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#55
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Corpus Christi
, Texas
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 869
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What an amazing thread to read. I know I need to do some similar work, hopefully much less of it. This just proves it can be done. Hang in there, this is inspiring!
__________________
Chuck & Skye
Rock and Roll Will Never Die!
WBCCI 3805
AIR 54011 Since July 2011
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03-27-2011, 10:14 AM
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#56
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2 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Webb Lake
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 46
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pictures?
let's see if the pictures will load today.
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03-27-2011, 12:31 PM
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#57
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Site Team
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa
, ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olielulu
I haven't figured out what type and thickness to use for the foam padding. I'm thinking around 5 or 6 inches thick. My wife is not excited about doing the upholstery.
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This is something worth looking into. From what I've seen, one needs a mattress with at least two layers of foam having different qualities. Otherwise you wind up with a bed that is either all marshmallow (you sink right in) or one that doesn't have much resilience.
I'm no expert, but I would recommend getting some expert advice.
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.” ...John Wayne...........................
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03-27-2011, 12:34 PM
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#58
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Twin Lakes
, Wisconsin
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 76
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Looks nice! Do you have any shower/bath pics? We're in the middle of tear out & need ideas.
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03-27-2011, 01:43 PM
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#59
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RGates
1968 20' Globetrotter
Thousand Oaks
, California
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 124
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Patience is a hard thing to have!
Hi,
I am 6 weekends into my own undercarriage frame cleaning, rear steel replacement and reconstruction and axle replacement on my 1968 Globetrotter. We are 2 weeks away from buttoning her up. Then a new fridge, heater and wiring and propane hook ups. These guys are time consuming but what a joy when your done. Be patient, go step by step. At the end you are an aluminitis PRO! Good Luck, look forward to seeing your unit rise from the ashes of old age.
Randy
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03-27-2011, 08:56 PM
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#60
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2 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Webb Lake
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsfixit
Looks nice! Do you have any shower/bath pics? We're in the middle of tear out & need ideas.
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unfortunately the two pictures of the bathroom cover the entire bathroom. It was originally a half-bath, so when you step in you are standing in the shower pan. I took a lot of time and planning to make sure most everything is watertight, or that it drains into the shower pan. one thing I have not installed yet is a shower curtain. I plan on making a rail that goes around the entire shower pan with a curtain on it. similar to the old clawfoot tubs that had the shower curtain on them.
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