I have used a Dremel tool to buff down the Olympic rivets, it works very well, is much less expensive that a shaver, and you can use it for other projects than just rivets. A good, multi-speed Dremel tool is around $100, and comes with a variety of attachments.
Our roof had a hole corroded in it where the tv antenna is, I covered the area with a fresh aluminum sheet, vulkemed the seams, potted the rivets with Vulkem, and installed a new antenna in place. Anybody that's standing on the roof can see it, but if they don't like the view, they can look somewhere else.
The link on post 25 didn't work. I went to the companies web site and didn't find any rivet shavers there. is it similar to the one in post 24? $20 is definitely better than $200.
1.) Microcounterstop (at the top of the page)
2.) Rivet shaver bit (fits into the microcounterstop
I would not be suprised to discover that the shaver bit itself is what is used in a more expensive shaver. You do have to have a high speed tool of some sort to drive the combination. The microcounterstop has the adjustability for depth and the shaver does the work. There are several types of tools that could drive the unit fast enough. Some sort of pnuematic driver or dremel type tool would work. Probably even a router or rotozip tool could work. I was able to do mine without any outriggers but I suppose a person could make up some sort of support if they wanted to. The microstop self centers around the rivet head by the way.
Jim, how well did it work in the winter? That's my big concern. I'm thinking about using it along with some other insulation. Probably the blue Dow styrofoam.
Thanks, Mike
I haven't started insulating yet because I have a lot of work to do. I have to replace the bathroom floor and repair thr frame. There is a web site Foilinsulation.com Reflective Technology if you want more information about the bubble insulation. Jim
Well, after being gone for two months, I have started back into the repairs. I got everything off the frame, and it is now at the sandblaster, and the POR15 is on the way. Luckily, the majority of corrosion was in the areas that I found when I first started this, and the frame is in pretty good condition.
while I was gone, I was walking through Dutch Harbor, Alaska and found this little airstream that someone is apparently living in full time. not the strap over the top holding it down.
After staring at my trailer and trying to think of things to do to it, I have finally made a lttle progress. the frame is sandblasted and Por-15'd. after sitting in the su for a wile the silver paint has turned a slightly greenish tinge.
I purchased a grey water tank, and installed hangers for 2. so I should have a total of about 50 gallons of grey water storage. the discharge will tee in with the black water directly behind the wheel well, with a valve for each right there also.
Hopefully I will be putting on the deck soon. I have been trying to find some metal to replace a section of the frame on the street side rear. Big surprise - this is a custom channel, so I will have to have a local sheet metal place make a section for me.
I also bought a rivet gun and some rivets and practiced bucking rivets by doing repairs to my fenders. I'm no expert at riveting yet. Andy made the suggestion to repair the fenders using some metal plates and vulkem to sandwich the bad sections. It appears to have worked pretty well although it doesn't look pretty. I think a side effect will be that the fenders will be a little more rigid, which should help to keep them from getting destroyed again. Thanks Andy.
Progress has been slow, but I have gotten somewhere since my last post. Work, rain (lots), too many projects, and lack of motivation have really been factors. I finished putting on the new marine grade plywood sealed at all the edges with wood hardener, filled all the seams and bolt holes on the floor with bondo, then painted the entire floor with a coat of Perma-flex. It is used to seal plywood aquariums, so I figured it should keep water damage from happening too quickly. The shell is back on and I am in the process of making it water tight. One of the previous owners really liked silicone RTV and put it on just about everything except the leaks. Reading all the forums, I decided to strip the plasticoat and start polishing it before I finish the waterproofing, so that I don’t waterproof it, then strip my waterproofing off. Installed a new air conditioner. It was a little scary cutting a large hole in the roof, but in the end it wasn’t as bad as I thought. The air conditioner fit nicely and I actually cut 2 smaller holes and placed the air conditioner on top of a frame for support, them made 3 more supports out of cedar and placed between the longitudinal frames. Installed 2 new dexter axles and new shocks. After reading all the threads on axles, I was a little torn between trusting my measurements and doing it the easy way. In the end, $$$ was the final determining factor. I cut the shock mounts off the old axles and welded them onto the new axles, and everything went very easily and quickly. Both grey water tanks are installed, the blackwater tank is sitting in the trailer. (thanks Bullydogs Mom for the tank ordering info) Potable water tank is in place. I ordered a Garnet SEE-Level tank level indicator system to monitor all the tanks. I’m still going to keep the original system hooked up, but I needed to monitor the grey water level also. Installed a new water heater, and purchased a new furnace. I’m in the process of determining if the refrigerator is in good enough shape to last a couple years. It works on 120 V, but I haven’t run it on gas yet. At least I’m still moving forward.
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