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Old 03-23-2008, 09:30 AM
  #29
overlander63
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Profile:  1974 31' Sovereign
On The Road, Fulltiming
Posts: 11,118
I have used a Dremel tool to buff down the Olympic rivets, it works very well, is much less expensive that a shaver, and you can use it for other projects than just rivets. A good, multi-speed Dremel tool is around $100, and comes with a variety of attachments.
Our roof had a hole corroded in it where the tv antenna is, I covered the area with a fresh aluminum sheet, vulkemed the seams, potted the rivets with Vulkem, and installed a new antenna in place. Anybody that's standing on the roof can see it, but if they don't like the view, they can look somewhere else.
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Aluminitis never sleeps...
AIR#2611
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Old 03-24-2008, 02:53 PM
  #30
malconium
Rivet Master
Profile:  1973 31' Sovereign
Portland, Oregon
Posts: 941
Quote:
Originally Posted by Olielulu
The link on post 25 didn't work. I went to the companies web site and didn't find any rivet shavers there. is it similar to the one in post 24? $20 is definitely better than $200.

Try this link to page 13 of the catalog.

Tools and Hardware,Page 13

You need two items:

1.) Microcounterstop (at the top of the page)
2.) Rivet shaver bit (fits into the microcounterstop

I would not be suprised to discover that the shaver bit itself is what is used in a more expensive shaver. You do have to have a high speed tool of some sort to drive the combination. The microcounterstop has the adjustability for depth and the shaver does the work. There are several types of tools that could drive the unit fast enough. Some sort of pnuematic driver or dremel type tool would work. Probably even a router or rotozip tool could work. I was able to do mine without any outriggers but I suppose a person could make up some sort of support if they wanted to. The microstop self centers around the rivet head by the way.

Malcolm
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Old 03-25-2008, 03:14 PM
  #31
InsideOut
Rivet Master
 
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Profile:  1964 19' Globetrotter
1956 22' Safari
Edgewater, Colorado
Posts: 8,469
Quote:
Originally Posted by Olielulu
<snip> and also to allow a tie down point for my straps so that it won't blow away.
You mean like this?





More pictures

Hmmm...I wonder what ever happened to Jay and his trailer...

Shari
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Old 03-25-2008, 10:24 PM
  #32
Olielulu
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Profile:  1972 25' Tradewind
Port Orchard, Washington
Posts: 12
wow

Now I think maybe I don't have it tied down enough. I could probably get a discount on tiedowns if I by them in a pack of 100!!!
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Old 03-30-2008, 01:57 PM
  #33
jim turcato
New Member
Profile:  1972 27' Overlander
windber, Pennsylvania
Posts: 3
Insulation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Olielulu
Jim, how well did it work in the winter? That's my big concern. I'm thinking about using it along with some other insulation. Probably the blue Dow styrofoam.

Thanks, Mike
I haven't started insulating yet because I have a lot of work to do. I have to replace the bathroom floor and repair thr frame. There is a web site Foilinsulation.com Reflective Technology if you want more information about the bubble insulation. Jim
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