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Old 03-16-2008, 08:08 PM   #15
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So, Iíve got all the cabinetry out of the trailer and will be moving on to removing the interior sheathing and insulation to start chasing down leaks. Just removing all of the interior has pointed me into about 4 or 5 locations that I didnít have any idea there were leaks.
While many have chosen to remove all of the inside skins to track down all of the leaks, I think you'll save a lot of time by painting the roof with some elastomaric paint, after you've applied vulkem around all your vents (including plumbing, gasket replacement if necessary). I found that 97% of my leaks disappeared after I did that. (Your windows can cause problems as well.)

(Be sure to apply a good aluminum primer before applying the KoolSeal.)

Removing all of the inside skin just seems like the long way to go about it.

Removing all the other stuff is wise, as the rear floor thing (especially with the rear bath) pretty much requires it.
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Old 03-16-2008, 11:34 PM   #16
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Cleaned and almost ready to seperate

The trailer is gutted with the exception of the wiring. I pressure washed the interior and did a quick inspection to see what else I can spend money on. I have found evidence of a harsh life for this one. One rear dome panel was replaced, and it has had some damage on the curb side repaired (somewhat.) Overall itís not in too bad of shape, but it could be better. I did find a hole in the roof panel from corrosion that I am not sure what I am going to do with yet. Iím not up for replacing the entire roof. I think that is a little further than I want to go right now. I may try using a sealer of some sort with a backing plate.

When I was removing the center interior ceiling skin it had a second layer of scrap in the slot for the skin. I am assuming these are there as shims, but Iím not sure if they are supposed to be, or if they are even needed. (picture attached.) Any thoughts?

Anyone have a used rivet gun for bucking rivets they want to get rid of cheap? I have a bunch of loose rivets, Olympic rivets and regular rivets that I would like to replace while I have it this far down.

I hope to take the shell off next weekend to see what kind of damage I can cause there. Does the inside need to be braced, or is that just a precaution for peace of mind? The frames seem to be structurally sound enough to not need it.
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Old 03-16-2008, 11:44 PM   #17
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Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by PizzaChop
While many have chosen to remove all of the inside skins to track down all of the leaks, I think you'll save a lot of time by painting the roof with some elastomaric paint, after you've applied vulkem around all your vents (including plumbing, gasket replacement if necessary). I found that 97% of my leaks disappeared after I did that. (Your windows can cause problems as well.)

(Be sure to apply a good aluminum primer before applying the KoolSeal.)

Removing all of the inside skin just seems like the long way to go about it.

Removing all the other stuff is wise, as the rear floor thing (especially with the rear bath) pretty much requires it.
Thanks PizzaChop.
Reading your thread and you pictures on replacing your rear floor inspired me to tackle this project.
After pulling half of my interior out to replace the rear floor, I figured what the hay! I'll just pull it all out.
I've seen pictures of airstreams with the paint on top and wasn't sure why they had done it. I guess now I know. If I start finding too many leaks I have another plan now. Or maybe when I get my next airstream. this is pretty addicting.
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Old 03-17-2008, 12:01 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by jim turcato
Hi! I read about the silver insulation, I've used it myself in my garage and other places. I'm pretty sure the R value is 7.5 which would probably be more than the original stuff that was in there. I'm working on a '72 27' Overlander and my floor fortunately is in fairly good condition. So far my only problem area is in the bathroom and compared to yours its MINOR! I've repaired the frame in the front in a couple of spots and I'm ready to insulate using the silver bubble wrap insulation. It's adequate for the job (it won't hold moisture). Home Depot or Lowe's sales it. Good luck! Jim Turcato
Jim, how well did it work in the winter? That's my big concern. I'm thinking about using it along with some other insulation. Probably the blue Dow styrofoam.

Thanks, Mike
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Old 03-17-2008, 07:52 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olielulu
I did find a hole in the roof panel from corrosion that I am not sure what I am going to do with yet. Iím not up for replacing the entire roof. I think that is a little further than I want to go right now. I may try using a sealer of some sort with a backing plate.
.
Do your self a favor and repair this porperly. You've gone this far already. Cut out the corroded area and install an external doubler that is riveted on. Sealing a doubler on is like putting a bandade on an amputated arm. Check out e-bay under aircraft tools for a used rivet gun. You will need a 3X.
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Old 03-20-2008, 08:21 PM   #20
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A note about reflective foil insulation...

Reflective foil works by blocking the flow of radiant energy. Radiant energy is what you feel when you stand out in the sunshine. Something like 85% of the heat that is lost through the walls during the winter is of type radiant. The number is more like 95% through the roof. Foil type insulation is most effective when it is installed with an air gap on both sides. Some tests that I have done indicate that the foil does a better job than the 1-1/2" of fiberglass insulation that was stock in our Airstreams. There are other tests being done now too. Take a look at the following threads:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f4/i...lts-13953.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...sts-40442.html

The following thread has some tips and tricks that I used for foil insulation installation:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...cks-30196.html

Malcolm
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Old 03-20-2008, 08:26 PM   #21
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You can use Olympic and Pop type rivits...

You do not necessarily need to used bucked rivets to do your repairs. Especially for the inner attachments. The outer skin can be riveted with Olympic style rivits that are like pop rivets in that their stem is pulled out from the outside. The interior rivets are mostly standard 1/8" aluminum pop rivets available at most any hardware stores and the big box stores. One of the better purchases that I made was to buy a pnuematic pop rivet gun from Harbor Freight. Check out the following:

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Do a search for Olympic to find out more about this type of rivet.

Malcolm
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Old 03-20-2008, 10:08 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
Reflective foil works by blocking the flow of radiant energy. Radiant energy is what you feel when you stand out in the sunshine. Something like 85% of the heat that is lost through the walls during the winter is of type radiant. The number is more like 95% through the roof. Foil type insulation is most effective when it is installed with an air gap on both sides. Some tests that I have done indicate that the foil does a better job than the 1-1/2" of fiberglass insulation that was stock in our Airstreams. There are other tests being done now too. Take a look at the following threads:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f4/i...lts-13953.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...sts-40442.html

The following thread has some tips and tricks that I used for foil insulation installation:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...cks-30196.html

Malcolm
Thanks.
That's a lot of information!! I do believe that I am going to do the foil insulation in one form or another. I won't be getting to it until this summer. I will be gone for a couple months for work starting at the end of this month, so I'm sure when I get back to it, there will be even more info. I'm pretty curious about the van that was insulated with the paint and foil process in one of the threads.

Shell is coming off this weekend. I have all new sheets of marine plywood, por 15, and a couple new outriggers, so I'm ready to get moving again.
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Old 03-20-2008, 10:18 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
You do not necessarily need to used bucked rivets to do your repairs. Especially for the inner attachments. The outer skin can be riveted with Olympic style rivits that are like pop rivets in that their stem is pulled out from the outside. The interior rivets are mostly standard 1/8" aluminum pop rivets available at most any hardware stores and the big box stores. One of the better purchases that I made was to buy a pnuematic pop rivet gun from Harbor Freight. Check out the following:

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Do a search for Olympic to find out more about this type of rivet.

Malcolm
gotta love Harbor freight! I plan on getting one of those once I start putting the inside back together.
I have some olympic rivets, I just figured that since I have it easily accessable, I might as well go a little further and put in original style rivets. there is one panel that was replaced using the olympic rivets, and there is a slight color difference on the rivets. (it looks like a bulls-eye. light on the outside and dark in the center.) and whoever installed the rivets didn't have the shaver and just filed or ground the rivets down.
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Old 03-21-2008, 10:19 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Olielulu
gotta love Harbor freight! I plan on getting one of those once I start putting the inside back together.
I have some olympic rivets, I just figured that since I have it easily accessable, I might as well go a little further and put in original style rivets. there is one panel that was replaced using the olympic rivets, and there is a slight color difference on the rivets. (it looks like a bulls-eye. light on the outside and dark in the center.) and whoever installed the rivets didn't have the shaver and just filed or ground the rivets down.
Yeah, that shaver is expensive! Something like $200 for a uni-tasker that's not even powered. I've seen other posters say they use a Dremel-style cutoff tool, and then just polish the rivet, to get it to blend in. I haven't done it myself so I can't really comment.
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Old 03-22-2008, 05:30 PM   #25
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Cheaper rivet shaver alternative...

The following thread has a lot of discussion about rivets, shavers and etc. Check out my posts 25 and 52 for information about a less expensive type of shaver that I paid around $20 for.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...ols-13329.html

Malcolm
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Old 03-23-2008, 12:10 AM   #26
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The Split-up

It is officially in two big pieces now. I got the shell off with no problems, thanks to all the information on these forums. I found all the hidden rivets and cut them off from the inside with a cold chisel. I know, not the most graceful tool out there, but it does the job. My new riveting tools should be arriving this week. looking forward to ruining a bunch of rivets and aluminum trying to learn to use it correctly.

I have the shell sitting on 2x6's located directly under the c-channels that are attached to full ribs to insure that it doesn't buckle. I ended up putting two braces inside to keep the walls from spreading out, and also to allow a tie down point for my straps so that it won't blow away. I buried the posts for my supports as if I were building a deck (minus the concrete) then put in corner bracing. It looks a little overkill, but it gives me peace of mind.
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Old 03-23-2008, 12:13 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
The following thread has a lot of discussion about rivets, shavers and etc. Check out my posts 25 and 52 for information about a less expensive type of shaver that I paid around $20 for.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...ols-13329.html

Malcolm
The link on post 25 didn't work. I went to the companies web site and didn't find any rivet shavers there. is it similar to the one in post 24? $20 is definitely better than $200.
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Old 03-23-2008, 09:26 AM   #28
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You've done a ton of work in such a short time, nice going!
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