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Old 12-04-2004, 03:42 PM   #15
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Cool Rear Floor repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
SAVE THE TEMPLATE!

I had one problem in the bath...I'm not even certain it was a "moisture" problem, but what I suspect happened was that I forgot to empty all the water from the toilet bowl one time, and it splashed out on the floor, because that's where the problem was: right in front of the toilet. I never found any standing water or dampness or anything, so this is just a guess. But one of the joints came apart, and on examination, it appeared that the tounge on one of the planks swelled up. no big deal, though. the bathroom floor consists of 4 1-foot long planks, so I just popped out the damaged one, cut a new one from leftovers that I saved, and popped it back in. took all of 5 minutes to fix.

I siliconed around the shower stall, and am carefull to clean up thoroughly after a shower...that area has never been a problem.

I was thinking of doing vinyl for the bathroom floor, but the way the bath fixtures are made with the flanged edges, I couldn't figure out a good way to trim them out. Airstream didn't care about that, as they just put carpet, and that conceals the edges. I had to kind of futz with the pergo trim pieces to get them to cover over the edges of the tank cover and shower stall, and still fit the flooring.
Floor repair is on hold. Found some problems with the frame that needs replacing. Called a welder (friend) it’s going to the shop to replace 2 sections and run braces. I looked at your floor, nice job. That is the way I'm going, however, I think I'll do vinyl. Lucky I have all winter!
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Old 12-05-2004, 07:06 AM   #16
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Chuck, check your aiming sights, they may need adjustment.
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Old 12-08-2004, 07:41 AM   #17
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Balrgn, the symptoms of your leak sure sound like...

Quote:
Originally Posted by balrgn
It was raining quite heavy here today, I located the leak. It is from the band that is above the bumper. Looks like some riviets popped and water has a pathway in. No Insulation wetted.
...the infamous rear end separation problem inherent in 70's era Airstreams. You may want to research this by searching on this site and others. You can confirm this problem by having somebody stand on your rear bumper and by having them jump a few times. If the bumper/storage area moves downward while the rest of the trailer remains stationary, then you have the problem and need to get it fixed. I recently had this problem fixed by the folks at Oasis RV in Tucson. Expensive but they did the job right.
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Old 12-08-2004, 07:57 AM   #18
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How far back did they go?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mello mike
...I recently had this problem fixed by the folks at Oasis RV in Tucson. Expensive but they did the job right.


Mike:

Just wondering:

- how far back did Oasis cut out the floor for replacement?

- "about" how much was the repair - not asking for an exact figure, just an order of magnitude.


I know that the "first" (curved) panel removal will get you back about 3', and there is a lateral "seam" (plywood floor) about 1' forward of the curved panel endpoint. - Did Oasis make the repair at the lateral seam?

Thanks,
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Old 12-08-2004, 09:53 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87MH
Mike:

Just wondering:

- how far back did Oasis cut out the floor for replacement?

- "about" how much was the repair - not asking for an exact figure, just an order of magnitude.


I know that the "first" (curved) panel removal will get you back about 3', and there is a lateral "seam" (plywood floor) about 1' forward of the curved panel endpoint. - Did Oasis make the repair at the lateral seam?

Thanks,
The entire repair with "elephant ears" was about $1,000. The floor wasn't too bad they only had to replace about a foot. The rear is rock solid now and looks great.
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Old 12-08-2004, 05:12 PM   #20
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Angry

Quote:
Originally Posted by mello mike
...the infamous rear end separation problem inherent in 70's era Airstreams. You may want to research this by searching on this site and others. You can confirm this problem by having somebody stand on your rear bumper and by having them jump a few times. If the bumper/storage area moves downward while the rest of the trailer remains stationary, then you have the problem and need to get it fixed. I recently had this problem fixed by the folks at Oasis RV in Tucson. Expensive but they did the job right.
From what is removed I can see to the wheel wells along the frame. I am going to the Weld shop Saturday, this week to have 2 feet, each side cut out and replaced. The hard part looks to be where the waste pipe exits the frame.
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Old 12-11-2004, 02:11 PM   #21
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by balrgn
From what is removed I can see to the wheel wells along the frame. I am going to the Weld shop Saturday, this week to have 2 feet, each side cut out and replaced. The hard part looks to be where the waste pipe exits the frame.
Update on the floor turned frame repair.
Other than the corrosion @ the bumper and back a few inches, the existing metal is solid. We followed the frame back where ever a "needle gun" would reach to test for solid metal.
At this point we decided to extend the rear deck 9" for additional storage.
The new pieces are slotted to fit back into the frame for additional support.
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Old 12-21-2004, 08:36 PM   #22
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Took your advice, in the end had to remve to bolting to get the piece to fit in right. Going back together now
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Old 12-21-2004, 09:12 PM   #23
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Is the u-channel bolted to the floor (new piece) as well as the frame? The piece you replaced, does it run from both sides of the frame? All tight?? I noticed that that was alot of my problem (replaced my floor). The PO had done a repare on the floor (only about a 9" section but didn't have it all tight - it ended up leaking worse. Towing,bouncing around lossens it up back there and in comes the water. What was worse was he used a peice of steel to make it stronger... It screwed up the aluminum pretty bad. No idea how long it was there.
I replaced the whole 4x8 sheet, redid the frame, and used some alum flashing under the ply, and tucked it up under the body panels, caulked the crap out of it. Just finished it up, need to attach the belly pan and the trim molding.
I forget who on the thread said to jump up and down on the rear frame and see if it moves..... If I did that before the repair I woulda broken the frame off right there. I could push the back end left to right about a half inch easy.
I just sucked it up and tore out the old and fixed it. It was a bitch, but well worth it.
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Old 12-22-2004, 09:05 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by balrgn
Took your advice, in the end had to remve to bolting to get the piece to fit in right. Going back together now
That's great! now that you know how to do it...come on over to my house and help me do mine!

(brrrr...awful chilly to be doing this work these days....)
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Old 12-22-2004, 11:56 AM   #25
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"C" channel access

Quote:
Originally Posted by RiskIt
Is the u-channel bolted to the floor (new piece) as well as the frame? The piece you replaced, does it run from both sides of the frame? All tight?? I noticed that that was alot of my problem (replaced my floor). ...he used a peice of steel to make it stronger... It screwed up the aluminum pretty bad. No idea how long it was there...... It was a bitch, but well worth it.
I am in the midst of "search and replace the rot" on the '78 Sovereign.....the "U" ("C") channel is attached to the floor in multiple places.....proper reattachment definitely calls for removal of either the inner or outer skin to access the center area of the channel. I can see no other way (other than panel removal or cutting access plates) to either attach the channel to the plywood or secure the channel to the frame.

The removal of the inner panels on the '78 was much easier than accessing through the outer panels. I did not even consider going the "elephant ear" route since removal and replacement of the inner panels is "relatively" easy.

FWIW, there is a "Front" and "Rear" "Hold Down Plate" (steel) factory installed on the '78 Sovereign.....it's been there at least 27 years now, with no noticeable corrossion (slight surface rusting on the unpainted steel plate in some places only).
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Old 12-22-2004, 03:05 PM   #26
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Cool Floor repair

Don't get me wrong now. But think outside the box. There really is no reason to disassemble things IF you don't need to. I did remove the underside skin. Inspected the frame as far back as seemed reasonable, The metal is very sound. The only frame damages seemed to come from, possibly the sewer hook up. So, I made a template and cut out the 3/4” plywood. It is impossible to install it in one piece. So I made the cut at the end of the hole for the black tank. Slid in the section and secured it by lags from under the bottom. Once both sections were in, I measured and cut 2” strapping material and ran it along the seam. And along the back to add support and eliminate the strange looking factory shim.
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Old 12-22-2004, 03:10 PM   #27
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Floor repair

The only metal that need replacing was the frame channel. I am going to treat the remaing exposed metal with a rust inhibitor (POR Product) I picked up 4 tubes of PARBOND to seal the outside band above the bumper. The rivets have broken there, once this is sealed and new (better rivets) this should eliminate the leak. I do still need to add a brace along the back to reattach the skin and add support.
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