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Old 10-10-2018, 10:32 AM   #1
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1971 29' Ambassador
Sulphur Springs , Texas
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Rear floor frame on.

Hi all,
I have the rear floor out of my 71 Ambassador. The c-channel was broken in two places so I bought new from Out-of-doors-mart. The new channel is not the same design as the old. Below the c-channel is another c-channel turned as to accept the plywood floor. Seems like a much better design than just sliding the plywood under the c-channel and bolting it down.
Anyway the question:
I see some people cutting the end piece of flooring and putting it in one half at a time. I also seen comments that you can just put the whole piece in because the walls can flex outward until the c-hannel is secured. What I'd like to do is attach the new channel to the subfloor piece outside the trailer (or actually just fit it in which will require some force.) Then carry the plywood with the channel at fitted in place through the door and put the whole thing in from the inside once I have removed the old channel. Will the walls really flex enough to do this?
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Old 10-10-2018, 11:53 AM   #2
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg , Texas
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I have never worked on a shell on floor replacement. But, we have done shell off. I noticed when flexing the ends to clear the C-channel as we were lowering the shell, the shell did flex. But, when I would push out on the rear curbside, the rear street side would bow inward. Due to the curvature, when you push out at one spot, the opposit spot bows inward. I know youíre not talking about moving it much, but it doesnít take much. Try it and see. If itís too difficult, go to Plan B. Good luck and Iím sure someone whoís done it will chime in. Bubba
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Old 10-11-2018, 08:49 AM   #3
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Bubba, that makes sense. I don't know how this is going to work, but I'm sure if I cut it up it will fit. I just really would like that back 4 feet to be a single piece. I'll post what happens.
Thanks,
Manning
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Old 10-11-2018, 09:10 AM   #4
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1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington , Minnesota
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When we did our shell -on (whole floor) we slid the end pieces in from outside. I don't know if that would work with the C channel bolted in place.....

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Old 10-11-2018, 09:58 AM   #5
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
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You can put it in as a complete piece if the rear hold down plate is not in the way. I think I cut mine in three sections and each section had it's own support. I added supports so all edges were supported. The hold down plate is an L-shaped plate riveted to the back center panel. The floor goes between the C-channel and the L-shaped piece. On many trailers the hold down plate is rusted out and somethings it is not there because there is a door at the back. Since you are replacing the C-channel it would probably be easy to replace the floor in one single section.



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Old 10-11-2018, 11:35 AM   #6
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1970 23' Safari
Victoria , British Columbia
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I had no luck in 1 piece and had to cut it ..... im curious if you win!!
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:39 AM   #7
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I've just spent 1/2 an hour staring at the inside of Lucy. I think that maybe I can attach the new c-channel to the whole rear floor piece out in the driveway, then carry the floor with the c-channel on it in through the door (clears by a couple of inches) and slide the floor and c-channel in together.
I must confess that I am really dragging my feet on this, I'm terrified of failing.
Onward through the fog.......
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Old 10-11-2018, 03:44 PM   #8
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Jeffersonville , Kentucky
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I redid the whole floor with the shell on. ( 29ft )

I did the front two pieces first and had them bolted in.
Then did the rear and the rest and bolted them.

so, when the rear was done, the back 12 or more feet where not bolted down. Allowing a lot of flex. And there was no floor in the way of getting the back piece in.

I put the back piece in flat on the floor at an angle and then worked twisting it in and pushed it back. Tight, but the flex was there.

I do not think you could do it this way with all the floor in except the last 4 ft.

I would look up the people that slid it in from the outside.

To put in from the inside, I would think you would need the back 8 ft out.
Put the back piece in 2 feet away from the back and then "stretch" the walls apart to get it to drop under the C channel and then push it to the back.

But again look up the people that slid it in from the outside. That may be a better way.
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Old 10-11-2018, 03:59 PM   #9
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pics
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Old 10-12-2018, 12:33 PM   #10
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Thanks for the pics Dremel. Aside from being educational, they are really pretty!
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Old 10-28-2018, 09:03 AM   #11
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1970 27' Overlander
Tryon , North Carolina
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Im in the same place right now. I bought the new c channel from out of doors mart and attached it to the rear floor piece and put it in place with the help of another person. My question is do I need to put the hold down piece of 90 degree angle steel in with the new style c channel or does the new style c channel provide the support the old hold down bracket did? thanks!
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Old 10-29-2018, 11:50 AM   #12
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1981 31' Excella II
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The more structure the better back there. Do you have some photos of your progress? I can't tell if yours has a hatch in the back or not. That would change the approach slightly. If there were numerous attachments between the floor and frame at several locations, the hold down plate would not be a big deal. Most of the load holding up the frame is supported by the hold down plate and a couple of 7/16 bolts and a few 1/4-20 bolts. So the center section of the trailer where the hold down plate is attached is basically it, accept for some weak connections to weak outriggers. When rear end separation gets really bad the outriggers are the only thing attached to the frame and they start to bend. I ended up using the old hold down plate rusty as it was. I also added some 1x1 angles on the inside of the C-channel to keep the screws from pulling through the C-channel and even out the load some. The hold down plate transfers most of the load to the rear center skin (a good thing) instead of relying on the rather thin C-channel to do it.



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Old 12-07-2018, 08:43 PM   #13
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1972 23' Safari
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2 pieces

I had to cut mine in 2 pieces, right down the middle.
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Old 12-08-2018, 01:18 AM   #14
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I cut mine offset to one side 1/3rd 2/3rds and welded in a L channel to support the split.
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