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Old 07-22-2012, 10:58 PM   #29
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Well a quick update.. I was able to take apart the bathroom and clean most of the old girl. I sanded down the bathroom end cap, and added a couple layers of fresh resin. It's not nearly as smooth as the original but it will work. My wife and I was able to prime and paint most of the bath room. I'll have to get a couple panels remade, they were burn beyond use.. I need to have the out anyway to fix the rear end separation. Next will be cutting out the bad floor and finish the frame repairs.
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Old 08-09-2012, 11:30 PM   #30
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Things are still moving along, we got the old rotted floor out of the bathroom area. Cut a matching piece of marine grade 5/8 pt plywood and coated it with a few think layers of fiberglass resin. We completely covered the top, and about 6" around the edges of the bottom. We also covered a couple inches around the hole for the to loot and tub pee trap. I'm off work next week, so I will be installing the new floor, after I por 15 the frame.

I extended the frame down 3 more inches with 3x2 gal angle to accommodate larger holding tanks. I'm also hoping that extending this almost to axle area to will strengthen the frame and avoid rear end sag in the future.

I'll have 1 27 gal black tank, 1 27 gal grey tank, 1 30 gal fresh water tank. Hopefully 99% of the tanks will be covered by the belly pan when I'm done.

Once the floor, tanks, and drains are done we can start to paint the rest of the inside. I know it's a long road ahead and I just need to stay focused.

I'm really chomping at the bit to get started again!
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Old 08-13-2012, 11:43 PM   #31
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Well I'm off this week, so I'm trying to get a lot done. I was able to get the frame cleaned and hit with por 15. The floor was put in place and screwed down on the scab piece. I started installing the bolts on the rear end. I'm really surprised how tough it is drill a half inch hole through 3 layers of stainless steal.

I' m getting ready to install the holding tanks, any one with any stories on how you installed yours? I'm building the supporting brackets from 1x1 1/8 " gal steal angle iron.
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Old 08-19-2012, 06:13 PM   #32
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Things went along pretty well, I was able to get the floors in, and the tanks installed. I went with 1/8 inch aluminum straps wrapped in rubber roofing tape to hold the tanks in place. Bolted them in with 3/8 inch bolts.

The next big decision will be how to run the plumbing for the black and grey tanks.
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Old 09-03-2012, 06:32 PM   #33
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Well still chipping away at it. I was able to finish up the plumbing to the black and grey tanks, filled the lines and the tanks but no leaks so far. Next will be getting the fresh water up and running. There is not a gas line running back there so I have been thinking about just using a small electric hot water heater for now.
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Old 09-03-2012, 06:39 PM   #34
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It looks like you are making good progress. Keep up the good work, you will be finished in no time.
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:31 AM   #35
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Little by little, hour by hour that I'm able to steal away, I have been trying to get done.. I got the lines from the fresh water tank ran, and have started adding insulation and replacing the lower panels. Hopefully that will be done soon!
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Old 09-18-2012, 12:26 PM   #36
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Well is does not look like you took the short term fix route? What changed your mind?

Perry
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Old 09-18-2012, 12:46 PM   #37
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The purifying effects of flames!! In the long run setting the bathroom on fire will be for the best, not that I would recommend it to anyone. It pretty much forced me to do it right.

The plumbing is all most done, Im going the cpvc route, and need to order a hot water heater. I'm leaning toward the girad tankless system. It's will be odd to use at first but I think we can do it. I've called their support line a few times, they were easy to contact, and helpful. I would go with the 500, but can't stand to send an extra $1000 on the unit. PPL has the girard for under $500, plus $50 for the door.
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:19 PM   #38
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I think CPVC is a good option although many on here will disagree. I am not totally sold on PEX although I have spent enough on tools already to have done my whole trailer in CPVC.

Yeah I forgot about the fire incident. Keep up the good work.

Perry
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:44 PM   #39
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I looked long and hard at Pex, but I'm not skilled in its use don't have the tools frozen pipes are not much of a problem in Fl. Plus I'm pretty good with cpvc so it seemed easier to do. Just requires more fittings. Couple 45s here and there and your good to go.
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:34 AM   #40
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Well still chipping away at it. I was able to finish up the plumbing to the black and grey tanks, filled the lines and the tanks but no leaks so far. Next will be getting the fresh water up and running. There is not a gas line running back there so I have been thinking about just using a small electric hot water heater for now.
Hi Keithgrowe,

Just looking over your post. One of the pictures you posted scares me a bit. Cutting out the bottom flange of a structural member and replacing it with a curved strap probably leaves you with maybe 10% of the original strength. This is obviously a tough situation to get the pipe through this area, but you should either try to "duck under" the frame, or go through it so that you don't remove the lower flange. You might be able to "bridge across" with another piece of trimmed I-beam or channel, but this thin curved strap will not recover any of the strength.

Lee
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:43 AM   #41
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The section I cut through is the 1/8 inch thick drop down that was welded to the bottom of the main 1/4 inch thick frame rail. 1/4 inch is a overkill but i would rather over do it.

The drop down really serves to cover the holding tanks, and provides secondary structural support. It takes the from frame 5" tall to 8" tall so the 27 gallon holding tanks fit without handing below the belly. The strap is really to just keep the discharge pipe in place. The AS came with this drop down for the first few feet back, I pretty much added it all the to the back axles. Now I have a 27 gal black 27 gal grey and a 30 gal fresh water tanks. The key will be to make sure we dump all the tanks before hitting the road.

Please keep the feedback coming, many hands make a light load.
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Old 09-20-2012, 05:43 PM   #42
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Patching is still a patch, no matter what way you do it.

The rear end separation, can be fixed, without taking anything out of the bathroom, except maybe something that's damaged.

You must remove the bottom portion of each rear quarter panel.

How? Easy.

Remove the bottom belt line molding. Cut the panel in half in the center of where the molding was located. You will also need to remove the rub rail, and all the rivets in the center rear panel, that includes the access door, up to but not including the bottom of the window.

Then you can remove the rivets from the rear end of each of the quarter panels.

Next, remove the rivets on the front side of those quarter panels, but only from the bottom to where you cut the panel.

Then VERY CAREFULLY, have someone hold the panel away from the trailer, just enough where you can get at the back side of the panels, and shear off the blind rivets that hold the front edge of the quarter panels to the last main bow, with a putty knife.

You will then see the issue.

Locate on this Forums, the previous method that I posted that's the next step.

When your ready to put the quarter panels back, attach a small strip of metal to the bottom of the quarter panel section that remained on the trailer. Use some Vulkem and 1/8 pop rivets.

Then you attach the top edge of the quarter panel, that you previously cut, to that same strip. Again use plenty of Vulkem and 1/8 inch pop rivets.

To reinstall the front end of the quarter panels, use Vulkem and Olympic rivets. On the rear end of those quarter panel,use a few 1/8 pop rivets.

lower the rear center panel, add some Vulkem and use Olympic rivets to refasten itand at the same time the rear portion of the quarter panels.

Use plenty of 3/16 inch pop rivets to fasten the interior quarter panels to the floor channel, and do the same at the bottom of the quarter panels as well as the rear panel.

You will probably find the rear floor channel broken in 2 places. It the must be completely removed and welded back together.

There are some small steps I have left out, but the above will get you started.

Anything short of doing the job as described above, is a patch job, that will fail in short order. That's from 46 years of Airstream rebuilding experience.

Andy
Hi Andy,
I know probably not easy to answer, but not being experienced with these sort of big jobs, how much would this quick patch take?
Thanks.
Erik
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