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Old 04-26-2013, 10:49 AM   #1
Rivet Master
 
1973 25' Tradewind
Beautiful , Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 548
Rear End Separation in Home Stretch

Hi folks
I hope I can get some more advice as I wrap up this part of the project. The only thing left is attaching newly installed plywood floor to the c channel, which I am going to reinforce some aluminum bar stock.

I have sanded and cleaned up the frame and used Por 15 on it. I replaced the rusted out rear hold down plate, put Pva 10 mil tape over all the new steel to separate the different metals.

I replaced the floor with ¾ marine plywood epoxied the end grain in about a foot then used screws and elevator bolts from vintage trailer supply

My question and concern

Between the plywood and the c channel I have about a 1/8 gap maybe a little more on one side with the frame floating. Do I just start bolting it up or do I jack it up to make contact between the plywood/frame combo, and the c channel level up, and then bolt it.

Anything I should know or be concerned about as I do this?

I have come to far to mess this up. Please any advice would be great.

Many thanks in advance

Tony
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:37 AM   #2
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,648
As long a there is a bolt going through the C-channel, floor, and (Frame, Outrigger, hold down plate etc) the bolts should draw everything together. It is best to put some sort of plate on the top of the C-channel so the bolt won't pull through. The way these things were designed, there is very little contact with the straight sections and the frame accept through the tips of the outriggers.

Perry
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:31 PM   #3
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1973 25' Tradewind
Beautiful , Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 548
Thanks Perry

I am pleased you chime in to my post it helps. I have some 1/4 aluminum that I plan to use as big washers to spread the force out from the head. I also have some flat bar to put in the channel as well.

I seem to have a much bigger separation between the two than I said originally but I suspect it is normal until they are connected.

Tony
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:57 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,648
You can run a straight edge along the floor to see if it is more or less flat when you are done but before you button up the interior skins. Mine was a little higher in the center at the back because the hold down plate goes between the frame and the floor it is a little higher there. I also used 3 pieces in the back so I did not have to remove the hold down plate to get the new section in. If I had more time and experience when I put things back, I would have added more structure between the frame and the walls (outrigger zone).

Perry
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:50 PM   #5
Rivet Master
 
1973 25' Tradewind
Beautiful , Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 548
I thought I would update on the rear separation/floor replacement

Below are some pictures of the hold down plate buck riveted. I am happy how it came out. First go round. I took Bart's advice and added a piece of Aluminum behind the hold down plate that drops below the flooring incase any water gets in and buck rivet it. I riveted that to the x member that I reenforced with some plate stock. Yesterday I took Perry's advice and added a 3/8" bolt through some 1/4" stock in the c channel.

The tape you see is the 10 mill PVA wrap I have talked about as a barrier between different metals. I also reenforced the c channel with some aluminum. The 4th picture shows the aluminum going past the floor and being secured to the x member plate stock. The floor is coated with a couple coats penetrating epoxy.

I suspect it is plenty strong.

Tony

P.S.

Bart thanks again for the drawing. I'll try and find it and post it.
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Old 06-04-2013, 07:53 AM   #6
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1973 25' Tradewind
Beautiful , Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 548
Finally found Bart's most excellent drawing.

Tony
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Old 06-04-2013, 01:03 PM   #7
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,648
I would paint that corroded back edge with POR15 or something like that. It works on corroded aluminum as well.

Perry
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