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Old 02-17-2010, 10:11 PM   #15
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1975 29' Ambassador
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yes the shell is structural. It holds up the frame and not vice versa. That is why, when the bolts between the frame and the shell corrode or break or whatever, the shell stays where it is and the frame droops. ... pretty much, anyway.
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Old 02-19-2010, 08:57 PM   #16
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Ok, after inspection. 4 inches of rot, bolts are still in-tact, no seperation, however I could'nt quit thinking about it so. I have removed the bath, the lower wall panels, the rotten floor, and the rusty bolts. Tomarrow I will begin to replace wood and rebolt.
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Old 02-19-2010, 10:39 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by lahrfarm View Post
Ok, after inspection. 4 inches of rot, bolts are still in-tact, no seperation, however I could'nt quit thinking about it so. I have removed the bath, the lower wall panels, the rotten floor, and the rusty bolts. Tomarrow I will begin to replace wood and rebolt.
You can add brackets to the outer part of the frame, underneath the banana wraps, to further increase the holding strength.

A drawing was posted on that subject, not long ago.

Andy
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Old 02-19-2010, 10:56 PM   #18
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Thanks! I have figured out a way to do that. My intent is for it to be much better than before. The info I have recieved here is going to save me alot of heartache later I'm sure. After this it's on to tires, brakes, bearings, and a close look at the axles.
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Old 07-09-2010, 11:27 PM   #19
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1962 24' Tradewind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
You can add brackets to the outer part of the frame, underneath the banana wraps, to further increase the holding strength.

A drawing was posted on that subject, not long ago.

Andy
Hey Andy, can't find the drawing but have found a reference to Airstream Bulletin #146. On another thread, I think, you said that the "elephant ear" repair is not of much value. This drawing you speak of is it #146 or another more up to date version? My rear is drooping, the Airstream too, and I need to start looking at a fix. I tried to search the forums and found a lot of references but no images. Any suggestions?
thanks, bill b.
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Old 07-10-2010, 01:18 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by bilby05 View Post
Hey Andy, can't find the drawing but have found a reference to Airstream Bulletin #146. On another thread, I think, you said that the "elephant ear" repair is not of much value. This drawing you speak of is it #146 or another more up to date version? My rear is drooping, the Airstream too, and I need to start looking at a fix. I tried to search the forums and found a lot of references but no images. Any suggestions?
thanks, bill b.
What I'm doing is:

0) remove inner skins at rear of trailer, rear belly pan, banana wrap trim, banana wraps if needed.
2) remove all bolts holding C channel to frame
2) remove storage compartment door support from under plywood
3) drill out rivets holding rear hold down plate to C channel
4) replace rusty steel hold down plate with formed stainless steel one, with added row of rivet holes (standard seam spacing) across the top
5) add aluminum doubler behind skin and down over rear cross member to prevent further water intrusion.
6) replace damaged floor
7) use a couple of temporary pop rivets to locate rear hold down plate hard against C channel
8) drill holes through new plywood floor into C channel
from underneath through existing holes in rear crossmember. You'll add some holes in C channel, since plywood hold down bolt tops were flush w/ top of plywood.
Caulk heavily between plywood and skin w/ Vulkem where it crosses frame members.
9) lift both ends of frame w/ jacks to bring rear
crossmember up against plywood & C channel.
10) replace bolts with stainless steel bolts w/ self locking nuts - use square pieces of 1.5" square 1/8" aluminum plate to fit down inside C channel as additional washers to spread load. Original small bolts were #12 - use 1/4" hex head instead.
11) From inside, drill out through prepunched holes in rear holddown plate, through douple and original skin starting at ends. Add Clecos to hold things in place. Rivet once holes are drilled.
12) drill out holes in rear flange of C channel from inside, rivet from outside through C channel, rear hold down plate, doubler and skin.
13) remove jacks
14) Add caulk where needed, replace trim.
15) Fabricate new storage compartment lid.
16) replace interior skins
17) fill screw holes and epoxy floors ( 2 coats), paint w/ polyurethane paint.

I'll try and take some pictures tomorrow.

- Bart
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Old 07-10-2010, 04:33 PM   #21
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Looking forward to photos

Bart,
I appreciate your orderly approach and I look forward to the pictures. I am a very visual person and words just don't line up for me. Banana wrap? Shouldn't that be yellow? or shaped like a banana or something. That sort of thing. Of course I figured out what banana wrap is, but things like, "compartment door support," "rear holdown plate,""aluminum doubler,""rear crossmember," etc. sometimes puzzle me. I am sure I will know it when I see it, but I too often break stuff while looking for the wrong thing. I guess it is kind of like being dyslexic, pictures usually give me the "ah-ha" moment. thanks, bill b.
Quote:
Originally Posted by barts View Post
What I'm doing is:

0) remove inner skins at rear of trailer, rear belly pan, banana wrap trim, banana wraps if needed.
2) remove all bolts holding C channel to frame
2) remove storage compartment door support from under plywood
3) drill out rivets holding rear hold down plate to C channel
4) replace rusty steel hold down plate with formed stainless steel one, with added row of rivet holes (standard seam spacing) across the top
5) add aluminum doubler behind skin and down over rear cross member to prevent further water intrusion.
6) replace damaged floor
7) use a couple of temporary pop rivets to locate rear hold down plate hard against C channel
8) drill holes through new plywood floor into C channel
from underneath through existing holes in rear crossmember. You'll add some holes in C channel, since plywood hold down bolt tops were flush w/ top of plywood.
Caulk heavily between plywood and skin w/ Vulkem where it crosses frame members.
9) lift both ends of frame w/ jacks to bring rear
crossmember up against plywood & C channel.
10) replace bolts with stainless steel bolts w/ self locking nuts - use square pieces of 1.5" square 1/8" aluminum plate to fit down inside C channel as additional washers to spread load. Original small bolts were #12 - use 1/4" hex head instead.
11) From inside, drill out through prepunched holes in rear holddown plate, through douple and original skin starting at ends. Add Clecos to hold things in place. Rivet once holes are drilled.
12) drill out holes in rear flange of C channel from inside, rivet from outside through C channel, rear hold down plate, doubler and skin.
13) remove jacks
14) Add caulk where needed, replace trim.
15) Fabricate new storage compartment lid.
16) replace interior skins
17) fill screw holes and epoxy floors ( 2 coats), paint w/ polyurethane paint.

I'll try and take some pictures tomorrow.

- Bart
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