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Old 07-10-2005, 11:10 PM   #15
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Sovereign Bathroom Restoration Pics

Well, a year later and I have new pics of another bath I'm nearly finished with.

With 7 children, it became apparent that the Overlander wasn't going to cut it forever so I began looking for another "project". Found it on ebay up in N. Carolina for a little over $2K and I am slowly getting it done. It is a center bath so I will be able to build enough bunks for everyone (assuming we don't have any more children!).

Hopefully, it'll be finished by next spring. (The Overlander, lovingly restored (see pics) will be for sale as soon as the Sovereign is useable.

Anyway, how fitting that my 100th post should be back here, on my first (and maybe only) thread.

'73 Sovereign

Overlander bath

Sovereign bath

It's actually the same toilet as we moved the SeaLand low profile to the Sovereign (sits 6" above floor on black tank) and replaced it with a full height Sealand in Overlander.
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Old 07-11-2005, 10:38 AM   #16
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Very Nice!

Love the Overlander bathroom. It's identical to my Sovereign. Where did you get the nice looking trim?

Mike
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Old 07-11-2005, 04:45 PM   #17
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Secret Source of Trim

Mike,

It's just strips of linoleum. A very cheap and decorative alternative to high priced plastic trim. My wife's idea, actually.
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Old 06-05-2007, 02:12 PM   #18
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1975 31' Sovereign
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Easley , South Carolina
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Hi Ron I hope all is well with you and your family. I was hoping to get to the GA rally back in April and get a chance to meet you and thank you for all the help I got from the photos of the rear floor replacement. I was not able to come my daughter was getting married. I've had some resent heath problems which has slowed down my work on my 1975 31ft International with a rear bath. I've got my Adantec cut and ready to go in this weekend and yesterday I was removing the belly pan and found some of the same stuff you found, rusted outriggers, insulation was a mess so it looks like my project is going to take even longer. My question, and you may have covered this at some point, is what did you use for under belly insulation? If you would share that with me I would appreciate it very much. Thanks Big John
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Old 06-05-2007, 10:19 PM   #19
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Big John,

I went back with Owens-Corning pink fiberglass (R-19 I think). There's been a lot of discussion on the pros and cons of using it vs solid insulation vs no insulation at all.

Make sure you use (used) a luan template before attempting install the real floor. It will save you time.

As for the frame rust/corrosion, it's a bummer and I know what you feel. Take a look at my Sovereign and you'll see some real corrosion (in a rear bedroom, no less).

Sorry we missed you at the SpringStream rally...we had a good time! We'll be back in the fall!

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Old 06-06-2007, 12:47 PM   #20
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Insulation

Thanks for the quick responce but after I asked you about the insulation I went back and looked at some of your pics and found where you used R-19 pink insulation and I don't see a problem with that at all. I was out there working on dropping the center belly pan last night and the stuff that's in there is disgusting. I have got to get that replaced especially before my wive sees it. The rats seem to like pink. I had forgotten about all the rust you had until I went back over some of your pictures. I am so glad you had the fore thought to take such great photos of the floor replacement I know you have helped many folks like me.

Thanks for the help,

John
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Old 06-06-2007, 11:07 PM   #21
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Quote:
I am so glad you had the fore thought to take such great photos of the floor replacement I know you have helped many folks like me.
That's what they pay me the big bucks for
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Old 10-13-2007, 07:29 AM   #22
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1970 27' Overlander
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I need to repair my floor in the bathroom and see thet you used plywood strips and glue to suppport the joints. My patch job is over the black water tanks, it their enough room for the plywood to clear the tank?

Tim
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Old 10-13-2007, 08:09 AM   #23
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Wow, always a thrill to see my first and only thread back in the news!

Tim,

Not sure exactly what you mean. I replaced the entire floor with one sheet of plywood (Advantec, actually) and there is a 4-6" wide strip underneath the joint where it meets the next piece forward.

I don't remember how much clearance there is between the floor and the black tank, but there is pink insulation between them.

While it is possible to "patch" the floor, you'll want to span whatever replacement you use from frame member to frame member, as well as scabbing it together with something underneath.

If you have floor rot, I'd do a thorough investigation to be sure it is isolated. It would be a waste of time to patch a portion of it only to find that it is more than one area and you'd be better off pulling everything out and replacing the entire floor!

In other words, now is a great time to pull the belly pan back and have a look. Blackwater tank supports have a tendency to rust over time and seem to give way at the most inconvenient moments. If you've got floor rot, it means you've had moisture. If you've had moisture, you probably have frame rust/corrosion. (Water follows the law of gravity.)

With a 37 year old unit, I think it's best to do a thorough repair, especially if you plan to keep it.
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Old 10-14-2007, 05:59 AM   #24
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1970 27' Overlander
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Floor Investigation

I'm going to take out the bathroom and evaluate the entire floor in the rear. I cleaned out the rotted wood in the rear compartment and can see the black water tank seems to sit right under the flooring with no insulation between them, that is why I was worried about clearence. Maybe the tank is curved and comes that close only in the trunk area? What is the best method of removing the belly plan for bottom investigation. It looks like you have to remove the belly wrap.

Tim
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Old 10-14-2007, 06:48 AM   #25
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Tim,

Start from the rear trunk area and drill out all the rivets which hold the belly pan up to the frame (both side frame members and cross members in the middle. At a minimum, you need to go forward six feet.

First, before you get started, back the trailer up on some blocks or 6"x6" lumber, as it will provide much more clearance to work under.

Be sure to wear eye protection and as respirator as you won't like what comes out. But removing the belly pan will give you a really good idea of what's going on under there.

Once the belly pan is removed, you'll see the black water tank supports (and be able to examine the condition of them. Be sure to support it from underneath once you remove supports. (Also, before you do that, remove toilet and toilet mounting flange from floor above. It threads into the top of the black tank.)

If you look at my Overlander pictures, you can get an idea.

Be sure to put it up on blocks (securely) first. Just roll the belly pan up and push it forward toward the axles to get it out of your way.
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Old 03-07-2010, 08:41 PM   #26
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Thanks for all the great info. I'm well into a similar project on my '70 Safari though it's a corner shower floor plan. Hardest part was locating some 5" formed C channel for some rear frame repair.
Stream Safe,
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Old 08-05-2010, 05:24 AM   #27
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1973 31' Sovereign
raleigh , North Carolina
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I have a "73 sovereign 31' also. I need to do the same thing with the floor. rear sag too. I just gutted the bathroom to get started. Thanks, for your photos!
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Old 08-10-2010, 10:58 PM   #28
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Take lots of pictures along the way!
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