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Old 03-23-2016, 05:36 PM   #29
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Attached the wrong diagram.

Frame Floor revision #1.pdf
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Old 03-23-2016, 05:45 PM   #30
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Attached the wrong diagram.

Attachment 259258
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:40 PM   #31
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I used darkspeeds plan. For the template if the curve i used the u-channel from the front and traced it out on a sheet if ply then cut the tubing to bend into the marks and welded. As for the blind riveting to the tube I didn't, I riveted to the skin but mine is raised 4 inches. No problemsClick image for larger version

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Old 03-24-2016, 11:01 AM   #32
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How did you cut the kerfs in your tubing and how far apart did you space them to match the curve of the channel?
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Old 03-24-2016, 12:18 PM   #33
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Metal chop saw. Every inch or so then weld
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Old 03-24-2016, 12:22 PM   #34
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1962 22' Safari
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57Vintage, thanks for sharing your plans! So from the outside you will see a new piece of trim running all the way around the trailer between the shell skins and the belly pan?
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Old 03-24-2016, 03:44 PM   #35
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I replaced the belly pan and underlapped it at the shell.(originally it overlapped the shell- bad idea) the corner wraps are the only place you can tell I added aluminumAttachment 259309pic if corner wrap new skin

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Side view with new belly wrap- you can also see the curved tubing and 4 in extension
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Old 03-24-2016, 03:46 PM   #36
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Corner wrap with new skin addedClick image for larger version

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Old 03-24-2016, 11:59 PM   #37
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Quote:
57Vintage, thanks for sharing your plans! So from the outside you will see a new piece of trim running all the way around the trailer between the shell skins and the belly pan?
Hi Skyclad

Not necessarily. The red line represents altering the bottom edge of the shell if it extends below the C Channel. If the edge of the shell is even with the C Channel I'll add a piece shaped like the red line, but slide it behind the shell piece. It would be like a Z channel you place between two pieces of stacked paneling on the side of your house. It's placed behind the upper shell piece and covers the top edge of the lower belly pan piece. I have both situations on my 57.

In either situation there would be two horizontal rows of rivets. One on the bottom of the shell pieces into the C Channel and one below that to hold the top of the belly pan pieces to the added square tubing welded on top of the frame outrigger. That would be the most visible change.

One additional item I came across this morning that I plan on adding; a drain from the C Channel through the square tubing and outrigger into the belly pan. See post 21
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...-108679-2.html I plan on using aluminum tubing instead of the stainless that perryg114 used. I'm hoping this will minimize damage from any leakage in the ceiling or walls. I don't plan on insulating the belly. I haven't decided on the type of weep holes to put in the belly pan pieces so water doesn't collect against the steel frame.
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Old 03-26-2016, 09:23 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by rugjenkins View Post
Corner wrap with new skin addedAttachment 259312

Here is some important info that may shed light on somethings. The most challenging part of the belly/side transition is at the corners of the trailers. The radius varies between 21 1/2 to 23 inches... Basically no two trailers are a like, my guess is that Airstream did not have a real life template until well into the mid to late 60's. Basically the radius corners are floating out in space. This is the reason the post above as discussed by Frank's Trailer Works to make a real life templet is so important. I have seen and others have discussed that "they" have templets laying around the shop from other trailers projects and "they" use these to recreate the radius corners. The problem with this is the side skins then do not match up when reattaching the body to the floor. This is why the four hardest parts to recreate and fit up correctly is the radius belly pan corners. Unless you de skin the entire trailer from the bottom of the windows down to the belly pan there is no way to get a nice snug fit in the corners of your trailer other than the way Frank does the real life templet. (Note: this is why I always replace lower skins of all restorations besides these skins show the most age.) Adding the steel tubing and bending this radius solves some problems structurally but introduces others more cosmetically because of the reasons stated above. If it was me I would take aluminum and bend into shape rather then cut and weld steel, I however come from the school to not connect dissimilar metals. I hope this both helps out your discussion and raises questions on this transition part of the trailer!
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Old 03-26-2016, 10:37 AM   #39
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I can dig that. The corner wraps are on with no issues and they look great. The reason I went with steel for the radius is because the frame is steel. Preventive measures are taken at the two dissimilar metals. Heck the front tie down is steel to alum. I agree I prefer alum to alum, but the majority if alum trailers have steel Fran and alum skins and the camper are still thriving. Mine is now better than factory, so I should be able to past it the kids in 30 years and they can upgrade it with new gadgets😁.
Money, time and materials available are big factors in my book!
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Old 03-26-2016, 12:49 PM   #40
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Thanks for adding to the discussion vinstream!

Rugjenkins, what steps are you taking to isolate dissimilar metals?
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Old 03-26-2016, 04:33 PM   #41
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I used a good coating if por-15. It's low tech but it helps.
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Old 03-31-2016, 07:01 PM   #42
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Hello im new to the Forum so plz be patient with me. But i have a question i have a 1991 Excella im replacing the underbelly Skin what type of material should i use and where to find it . thanks in advance if someone could point me in the right direction
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