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02-07-2011, 11:51 AM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 77
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Questions for shell-off project
Four questions for those of you with experience with shell-off refurbs. As I'm planning to do our shell-off project I find myself questioning which I should do first:
ONE:
Should I -
A-Remove shell and replace floor then seal the outer shell after reassembling
or
B-Seal outer shell then remove shell, replace floor and reassemble
Intuition tells me to seal her up first. That way when I reassemble, the floor will be completely protected from the start (I don't have a shop so I'll be working outdoors). Just wondering if the inevitable flexing during shell removal / reassembly is enough to compromise the sealing work and force it to be re-addressed.
TWO:
Taking it a bit further, would you recommend doing all of the outer skin work prior to removing shell or after reassembly? Does it matter?
THREE:
Would you suggest leaving any of the interior skin in place when removing the shell? Seems like end caps, ceiling panels and upper walls would contribute some structural support while the shell is on horses. Necessary? Recommended? Too heavy?
FOUR:
Windows in or out when removing shell? These are the curved corning windows. I have them all right now and since they seem to be unobtainium, I don't want to loose any if flex is inclined to stress and crack them.
Suggestions appreciated.
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02-07-2011, 01:40 PM
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#2
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Weirton
, West Virginia
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 52
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Good Luck with your project. Make sure you see this thread, loaded with information and the end result is spectacular! One of the best I have read on this forum with lots of pictures.
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02-07-2011, 01:55 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1955 22' Safari
Currently Looking...
Great Lake State
, .
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wworx
Four questions for those of you with experience with shell-off refurbs. As I'm planning to do our shell-off project I find myself questioning which I should do first:
ONE:
Should I -
A-Remove shell and replace floor then seal the outer shell after reassembling
or
B-Seal outer shell then remove shell, replace floor and reassemble
Intuition tells me to seal her up first. That way when I reassemble, the floor will be completely protected from the start (I don't have a shop so I'll be working outdoors). Just wondering if the inevitable flexing during shell removal / reassembly is enough to compromise the sealing work and force it to be re-addressed.
TWO:
Taking it a bit further, would you recommend doing all of the outer skin work prior to removing shell or after reassembly? Does it matter?
THREE:
Would you suggest leaving any of the interior skin in place when removing the shell? Seems like end caps, ceiling panels and upper walls would contribute some structural support while the shell is on horses. Necessary? Recommended? Too heavy?
FOUR:
Windows in or out when removing shell? These are the curved corning windows. I have them all right now and since they seem to be unobtainium, I don't want to loose any if flex is inclined to stress and crack them.
Suggestions appreciated.
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I would remove a piece of the belly pan to see what damage you have first, then if you want to carry on I would gut and remove the lower inner panels to start................toastie
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02-07-2011, 06:54 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1974 31' Excella 500
Charleston
, South Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,073
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1) A
2) No -from my own limited experience, the shell is strong, but is somewhat flexible.
3) Yes. Just take off lower. Pros outweigh the cons.
4) In. No way shell should flex that much, esp. with interior skins (top) still in.
__________________
As I grow older, I pay less attention to what men say. I just watch what they do.
- Andrew Carnegie
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02-07-2011, 06:54 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1957 30' Sovereign of the Road
1959 28' Ambassador
1949 24' Limited
Peru
, New York
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wworx
Four questions for those of you with experience with shell-off refurbs. As I'm planning to do our shell-off project I find myself questioning which I should do first:
ONE:
Should I -
A-Remove shell and replace floor then seal the outer shell after reassembling
or
B-Seal outer shell then remove shell, replace floor and reassemble
Intuition tells me to seal her up first. That way when I reassemble, the floor will be completely protected from the start (I don't have a shop so I'll be working outdoors). Just wondering if the inevitable flexing during shell removal / reassembly is enough to compromise the sealing work and force it to be re-addressed.
TWO:
Taking it a bit further, would you recommend doing all of the outer skin work prior to removing shell or after reassembly? Does it matter?
THREE:
Would you suggest leaving any of the interior skin in place when removing the shell? Seems like end caps, ceiling panels and upper walls would contribute some structural support while the shell is on horses. Necessary? Recommended? Too heavy?
FOUR:
Windows in or out when removing shell? These are the curved corning windows. I have them all right now and since they seem to be unobtainium, I don't want to loose any if flex is inclined to stress and crack them.
Suggestions appreciated.
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wworx,
Check out posts 23 & 24 of thread "shell on shell off" & you can see how I approach many of the questions you have raised.
Good luck with your project,
Colin
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02-07-2011, 07:33 PM
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#7
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3 Rivet Member
1958 26' Overlander
Lander
, Wyoming
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 113
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As to query #1 my suggestion is to seal after reassembly. Mine has been in the shop but any leaks to your new floor from being outside will certainly be identifiable and probably won't do much damage particularly if you've sealed the floor in some manner The shell will shift once its off and that might compromise your reseal. Being able to seal it up once its all back together gives satisfaction that you've done it right
#2 I would do all the outer skin work/replacement after reassembly. This gives you a stable finished product to work on. And you can make sure everything is level as you do any skin replacement. Particularly where the floor ,c channel and skins meet. Even if your not doing skin replacement make sure the frame is completely level, You don't want to rivet everything back only to find your not level.
#3 You could leave the end caps in, perhaps the ceiling. This will add weight but maybe some stability also. I assume you will want to remove them at some point anyway so you can put in new insulation/wiring. All interior panels were out on mine prior to lifting and although it flexed there was ample stability with my bracing.
#4. Good thought on the windows. I left mine in but understand your fear of them being damaged. I believe you could remove them without a lot of shell stability loss but don't think its really necessary. I doubt you will damage them.
I took a lot of time bracing the interior and deciding how I was going to set the shell once off. (Its windy here in Wy) I think you'll like the shell off for repair of the frame, axles and bellypan. Just my thoughts. Ed
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02-08-2011, 09:43 AM
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#8
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 77
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Thanks folks - once again a big help. I may start getting some of the internals out before the weather breaks. Belly ans shell stay on until spring though. I'm getting a much clearer picture of how to expect this project unfold.
Colin,
Really appreciate your help in understanding your setup and answers to my earlier axle questions.
__________________
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02-09-2011, 05:15 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1974 31' Excella 500
Charleston
, South Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,073
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If you are going to lift the shell by jacking it up, I'd start collecting cinder blocks and pieces of 2x6 and such. As you jack one side or one end up some you will need incremental spacers. I did anyway. It goes up little by little.
This was an aggravating thing to discover while in the midst of the process. I had to stop and go hunt (or buy) cinder blocks. I cut up some old 2x6s in lengths about a foot long for blocks.
__________________
As I grow older, I pay less attention to what men say. I just watch what they do.
- Andrew Carnegie
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02-09-2011, 09:07 PM
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#10
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4 Rivet Member
1963 16' Bambi
Stevens Point
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 318
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wworx,
You have to raise it high enough for the shell to clear the wheel wells asyou pull the frame out.
Tim
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02-10-2011, 06:59 AM
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#11
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3 Rivet Member
1964 28' Ambassador
Oklahoma City
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 143
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wworx, if you're working outside, use heavy duty steel saw horses on 3/4" plywood bases (you can attach horse to base if you want). I lifted mine and slid 4x4 12' long supports across the shell bottom. I used the nylon tie-down ratchet belts over the top of the shell at front and rear. If it's anything like what I experienced, the shell will be up there for quite a while. Good luck!
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