Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-04-2006, 07:24 PM   #1
Rivet Master
 
soldiermedic's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Florissant , USA
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,083
Question on partial floor replacement

Alright,

Got the rig home last night and proceeded to tear out the old vinyl tiles. There was rot at the front door (no doubt due to the door gasket being original, and mostly dry rotted off), in the very rear of the bath (due to no gasket on the rear hatch), and in the streetside front endcap by the water pump (The pump leaked and the PO never looked into the problem).

I do not have the space or capability to remove the shell and fix the flooring directly on the trailer. Since much of this rot goes to the edge, should I just cut pieces to fit that will slide up under the shell around the edge? I also would rather attach the new subfloor with self tapping screws instead of the old way of bolting through the frame and bending the bolts over.

I also plan to replace the sewer vent gaskets to remove leakage opportunities.

Will post a pic of that water pump destroyed area later.

Suggestions? Comments Ideas?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	bathfloorgone.JPG
Views:	92
Size:	48.9 KB
ID:	28125   Click image for larger version

Name:	frontfloorgone.JPG
Views:	105
Size:	56.8 KB
ID:	28126  

__________________

__________________
soldiermedic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2006, 07:45 PM   #2
4 Rivet Member
 
1975 27' Overlander
High River , Alberta
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 393
I have never fixed the floor in an Airstream (yet). However, my service manual shows a recommended floor repair method. It involves cutting out the old sections, using them as a pattern for the pieces to be fitted in, and using another strip of plywood about 4" wide to overlap the existing and the new on the underside. Numerous wood screws are recommended to tie everything together. Removing the shell is not part of the instructions. It sounds like what you are proposing is acceptable. I'm sure it will be challenging.

If you are going to use self-drilling/self tapping screws, use reasonably large ones and remember that the frame sections are not nearly as thick as a nut. You should use more screws than you would use bolts. I can appreciate you wanting to avoid removing large sections of belly pan. This raises another question, however. Shouldn't you at least check the frame sections beneath the rotted floor areas to see how badly they're corroded? Or are you doing this anyway?
__________________

__________________
AlbertF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2006, 07:53 PM   #3
Moderator
 
Stefrobrts's Avatar

 
1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground , Washington
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 11,908
Images: 50
Blog Entries: 1
I did a partial floor replacement. I did have to do a bit of repair to broken welds in the frame while the floor was up. I did not remove the bellypan at all. I put it back together using TEK self tapping screws with a wood-type head. So far so good. We've been camping in it for two seasons since the repairs were done. Here's a link to the thread.

http://www.airforums.com/forum...-14679-12.html
__________________
Stephanie




Stefrobrts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2006, 07:55 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
soldiermedic's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Florissant , USA
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,083
Those other pics I promised

Here they are.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	pipedamage.JPG
Views:	89
Size:	47.0 KB
ID:	28128   Click image for larger version

Name:	pipe.JPG
Views:	91
Size:	45.7 KB
ID:	28129  

__________________
soldiermedic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2006, 10:00 AM   #5
Rivet Master
 
soldiermedic's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Florissant , USA
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,083
More pics of a destroyed floor.

Looks like I didn't get a steal on this trailer after all.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	curbside.JPG
Views:	94
Size:	57.7 KB
ID:	28155   Click image for larger version

Name:	rot1.JPG
Views:	87
Size:	75.3 KB
ID:	28156  

Click image for larger version

Name:	rot2.JPG
Views:	78
Size:	74.3 KB
ID:	28157  
__________________
soldiermedic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2006, 12:11 PM   #6
Silver Mist
 
LI Pets's Avatar
 
1977 31' Sovereign
Riverhead , New York
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,008
Images: 28
Ok, so what's the question you know you need to cut out the rotten sections.

Try to cut to the center of a frame, if your not sure cut a hole big enough for your arm and feel where they are, take a tape measure under the ply and transfer the measurement on top cut it, if you miss it by a little no big deal.

Set your saw depth to 1/2" so you don't hit the steel.

If you need to wreck the old ply to get it out, so you don't have a template just make one out of cardboard to fit.

Relax it's a hobby
__________________
Bob
'77 Sovereign Intl 31' CB
WBCCI R2 Rep VAC 11411 Metro NY VP

LI Pets is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2006, 03:21 PM   #7
Rivet Master
 
soldiermedic's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Florissant , USA
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,083
I think my biggest question is about where the shell lies on top of the floor. If I cut the rotted ply out, and place a new piece down, is there a sealant I need to use on the edge of the plywood that fits under the shell? If not I am sure water would have a chance to get back in and ruin my newly fixed floor.
__________________
soldiermedic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2006, 03:30 PM   #8
Silver Mist
 
LI Pets's Avatar
 
1977 31' Sovereign
Riverhead , New York
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,008
Images: 28
In mine the outer skin was overlapping the ply floor.
Water can not run down the sides into the ply floor.

You can seal the edge with something like wood sealer or fiberglass resin if you're concerned.
__________________
Bob
'77 Sovereign Intl 31' CB
WBCCI R2 Rep VAC 11411 Metro NY VP

LI Pets is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2006, 04:02 PM   #9
Rivet Master
 
soldiermedic's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Florissant , USA
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,083
Well..it could if it was coming from a window or the door right?
__________________
soldiermedic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2006, 04:20 PM   #10
Silver Mist
 
LI Pets's Avatar
 
1977 31' Sovereign
Riverhead , New York
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,008
Images: 28
Sure or a broken water pipe.

You're addressing many of the same issues I had 2 months ago when I started my restoration.

I decided after going thru all this work I was never going to do it again.

What I did to insure against doing it again, is I took 6 oz fiberglass cloth and resin and did the whole floor took about 3 hours and cost about $150.

I also removed all the pink insulation under the floor

It is now bullet proof.
__________________
Bob
'77 Sovereign Intl 31' CB
WBCCI R2 Rep VAC 11411 Metro NY VP

LI Pets is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2006, 04:30 PM   #11
Patriotic
 
Chuck's Avatar

 
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston , Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,533
Images: 260
I think the most sensible approach I've seen advocated is to use the marine epoxy/wood preservative stuff around the outer edges, and about 4" in from there. then, just don't put any finish floor down for a while, and watch. you may have the inner lower skins off anyway, so you'll be able to spot water coming down from above. fix the leaks, and you won't have any problems...right?

take a good close look at the lower trim mouldings where the belly pan/banana wraps meet the exterior skins; some of us have found that the factory installed sections of the wraps so that they sit on the OUTside of the skins, rather than be tucked in behind. So they act as great big water scoops, channeling water right to the plywood floor. if thats the case with your trailer, you want to make sure you seal up that seam but good...and the top edge of the moulding, too, so water can't get in there. I found a wet spot on my floor up front early this spring...further investigation revealed a gap in that lower trim moulding. a little push against the skin just above the molding revealed the gaps that weren't sealed. After a bead of parbond, the floor dried up and hasn't been a problem since.

this whole thing is also a good argument for vinyl floor right up to and maybe even under the c-channel, with no sealant there at all. any water that gets in will make a puddle on the floor that won't damage the vinyl, but you WILL notice right away. or if not, at least much sooner than if it were able to slip under a floating finish floor, slowly eating away at the invisible sub floor like a cancer...
__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
Chuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2006, 04:44 PM   #12
Silver Mist
 
LI Pets's Avatar
 
1977 31' Sovereign
Riverhead , New York
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,008
Images: 28
Chuck the resin will protect the same way, right?

The idea of fixing what's known now and wait is right on point, I found two more leaks after I thought I fixed everthing, now after three weeks and a few good rain storms I'm satisfied.
__________________
Bob
'77 Sovereign Intl 31' CB
WBCCI R2 Rep VAC 11411 Metro NY VP

LI Pets is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2006, 04:50 PM   #13
2 Rivet Member
 
1965 26' Overlander
gravel switch , Kentucky
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 37
hey doc, am going through the same issues now with my 65 overlander. originally i had hoped to grub out the rotted areas and just patch up to the "c" channel as best i could. when i originally did this, i noticed the heads of the bolts in the floor running in straight lines and just assumed they were bolted to the center of the underlying beams. took my circular saw and set blade depth to between 1/2 and 5/8 of an inch depth, took a plunge cut and then ripped along a straight edge i had tacked down. i parsed out the area above my black water tank to the curbside wall at the "c" channel. left the area underneath the hot water heater alone. at the time i just felt it was beyond me to get into getting the rot out from under the "c" channel and was going to just hope for the best. luckily for me (i think), i had to let the project go for quite some time and am now just getting back into it. i have decided to remove the lower skins and replace the total floor without removing the shell. there are a number of discussions regarding how to go about this on the forum. i certainly think i will feel better about the end result than if i spent a whole lot of time doing a patchwork job only to have things fail down the road. i have some discussion and a couple of pics of my current reno project under the overlander subforum if you are interested. good luck whichever way you go. regards, dave
__________________
65overlander is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2006, 05:03 PM   #14
Patriotic
 
Chuck's Avatar

 
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston , Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,533
Images: 260
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lipets
Chuck the resin will protect the same way, right?
I'm no expert on wood preservation, so I don't really know. I've seen some say that fiberglassing won't allow the wood to "breath". When my turn comes to do this (and it will...), I'll consult a boat person. they know about protecting wood from water.
__________________

__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
Chuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Skylight part question ColtSAA45 Roof Vents, Skylights & Fans 3 04-22-2004 09:05 PM
Winterizing question PatCrusse Our Community 15 11-14-2002 01:08 PM
Number Decals Question wagsrp Airstream Motorhome Forums 7 10-11-2002 09:18 AM
Battery Dead/Power jack question jcanavera Jacks, Stabilizers, Lifting and Leveling 34 08-16-2002 02:51 PM
Tire sizing question casarodante Tires 5 07-02-2002 11:19 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:45 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.