Question on partial floor replacement

[Fyrzowt]

In response to an earlier post about transitioning from copper to PEX, yes there is a great product, the fittings are pricey but just push on and are rated for 200 PSI. The fittings run about $7 - 10 each so you will want to limit joints where possible. If you go with the normal PEX compression fittings, you could use these fittings at the copper=to-PEX transitions only. The product is called SharkBite. The fittings will seal either copper or PEX with the same seals. There is a tool for releasing the fitting in case you have to take it back apart, then it is re-usable. Simple Push-on system, good for tight spaces.
I installed some yesterday in a waterheater retrofit project, I hope to complete that today.
Dave

[Wabbiteer]

POR-15 likes the texture of rusted metal, to get it to bond well to new metal it should be degreased and etched (of course they sell products to do just that) so that could be a point of negotiation w/ trailer shop to deliver trailer either unpainted or you provide the paint, etc. POR-15 is fun to use but not that fun.

I agree the $2800 may be just a starting point; wait till they seemingly can't reuse the wheelwells or really miff one or more dimensions essential to having the shell bolt on easily so they re-invent the wheel and build trouble in. How much weight is in their replacement? If your old frame, axle and floor weigh 1500 pounds (fictional number) by what percentage will they 'over-build' the new frame? Andy has said there is no limit to the number of out-rigger supports one can put on an Airstream, I would take the time to make sure they understand the out-rigger : bannana wrap : shell attachment model since as you've dropped the belly skins it may not be obvious..

The one-inch spacer is simply how they recommend installing it, that is, how it was tested to get advertised high 'R' value; note that applies only in the horizontal plane and perfectly sealed with the metal-foil duct tape so when applied on walls or curved surfaces the efficiency drops. Also the bubble type insulation is fairly transparent to sound - I chose the Prodex foam type (http://tinyurl.com/ofwg4)to help restore the noise-proofing the old fiberglass batts provided in the trailer.

You won't put a 1" air gap between the floor and frame; the original compressed fiberglass ended up about 3/16" thick so thats a good measure to try and duplicate after the floor bolts get tourqed down. I arbitraily made the 1/4" thickness for air-gap space but doubled that in the centers of floor area as seen from beneath so any liquid water will drain to the center and out through the staple holes. If & when the shell comes off everything I've done most likely will get discarded but a 1/4" frame-floor gap will line up with what has already been done.

Take the time to write out design points and questions - I am nearly overwhelmed with details that I didn't document. The discipline required to keep a daily diary and brainstorm flow-chart is nothing compared to the let down of missed opportunities and re-working dead ended ideas in the future... I certainly welcome reading and contributing to your posts when I feel competent to do so

[soldiermedic]

Originally Posted by Wabbiteer

You won't put a 1" air gap between the floor and frame; the original compressed fiberglass ended up about 3/16" thick so thats a good measure to try and duplicate after the floor bolts get tourqed down. I arbitraily made the 1/4" thickness for air-gap space but doubled that in the centers of floor area as seen from beneath so any liquid water will drain to the center and out through the staple holes. If & when the shell comes off everything I've done most likely will get discarded but a 1/4" frame-floor gap will line up with what has already been done.

My floor did not have fiberglass batting underneath it. The PO opted for a thick spray foam that expanded to the full area size. I may misunderstand what you put, but do you mean that there was fiberglass between the frame metal and the subfloor?

[Wabbiteer]

Aye - when factory assembled they laid out fiberglass bats to cover every inch of flooring and then clamped the frame down on top of it; at the factory they could/can spin the frame over easily to have easy access to both sides. The fiberglass often acted as a wick for water across the tops of the main frame helping kill the plywood prematurely, especially from a leaking trunk area. I've no clue as to why yours is missing that detail.

I've pulled the bath shelf and shower mixer panel on mine this afternoon - reading up on the tub removal process at the moment. I also got to spend 90 minutes washing egg off my F-150 and the Airstream; a single mom living behind and two doors down is letting her middle-school kids run wild. I hate to get antagonistic & go tit-for-tat on them, 'squealing' on them to their mother... hmnnn... Anyhow I'm darn lucky they didnt open the door and start grabbing tools since within easy I had alot of my favorite tools laid out for quick access... Guess it will be lock the vehicles from now on out...