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Old 11-19-2006, 11:44 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Wabbiteer

You won't put a 1" air gap between the floor and frame; the original compressed fiberglass ended up about 3/16" thick so thats a good measure to try and duplicate after the floor bolts get tourqed down. I arbitraily made the 1/4" thickness for air-gap space but doubled that in the centers of floor area as seen from beneath so any liquid water will drain to the center and out through the staple holes. If & when the shell comes off everything I've done most likely will get discarded but a 1/4" frame-floor gap will line up with what has already been done.

My floor did not have fiberglass batting underneath it. The PO opted for a thick spray foam that expanded to the full area size. I may misunderstand what you put, but do you mean that there was fiberglass between the frame metal and the subfloor?

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Old 11-19-2006, 04:29 PM   #44
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Aye - when factory assembled they laid out fiberglass bats to cover every inch of flooring and then clamped the frame down on top of it; at the factory they could/can spin the frame over easily to have easy access to both sides. The fiberglass often acted as a wick for water across the tops of the main frame helping kill the plywood prematurely, especially from a leaking trunk area. I've no clue as to why yours is missing that detail.

I've pulled the bath shelf and shower mixer panel on mine this afternoon - reading up on the tub removal process at the moment. I also got to spend 90 minutes washing egg off my F-150 and the Airstream; a single mom living behind and two doors down is letting her middle-school kids run wild. I hate to get antagonistic & go tit-for-tat on them, 'squealing' on them to their mother... hmnnn... Anyhow I'm darn lucky they didnt open the door and start grabbing tools since within easy I had alot of my favorite tools laid out for quick access... Guess it will be lock the vehicles from now on out...


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