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Old 11-05-2006, 06:05 PM   #15
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I started tearing out the rot today. Seems like only the edges of the safari have damage. Streetside was almost undoubtably caused by their (Rigged) plumbing setup. There were lines in the front that didnt connect to anything. Some water came out when I removed some of the pipes. The area in the center of the trailer in the front and throughout the rest of the trailer are in fine and stable shape until you get to the rear where no weather stripping on the hatch caused rot.

guess I can replace both sides, and then wait for a good long rain to see if I have water issues.
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Old 11-11-2006, 05:14 PM   #16
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Thumbs down Welcome To My Nightmare!

So I hear about this Airstream vintage 68 that is supposed to be in pretty good shape. THe guy wants $3500 and is 3 hours away. I get up there ASAP to make sure I get it. On walk through everything looks fine. I then remove the dinette, and vinyl tiles to find the pictures above and the floor rotting. I have started removing all the rot I can find, and now feel that I am in big trouble. From the pics below you can see signigicant frame damage. The third pic is all the way forward in the endcap and I think it is the final crossmember on the frame. I feel now that I SIGNIFICANTLY overpaid for this trailer. I know nothing about welding, and wouldn't know what to ask a welder to use to fix anything that I am seeing. If this is only the front area, should I gut the entire trailer, figure out a place to drop the shell (Not like I have the time, tools, or area to do that), and create a whole new floor?
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Old 11-11-2006, 05:22 PM   #17
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THe first two pic's don't look too bad they can get done up by any welding shop.

THe third pic isn't clear enough to see???

You can save money if you bring it to a shop instead of having someone come there.

As far as paying too much.... maybe, maybe not, time will tell.

Don't get mad about it, all part of the game with any restoration.
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Old 11-11-2006, 05:28 PM   #18
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Bob,

Would you remove the rest of the trailer's floor to ensure the rest of the frame isnt like this?
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Old 11-11-2006, 05:49 PM   #19
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No, you can ascertain quicker, easier, cheaper, by dropping the belly pans and remove the rotten insulation, paint all good steel with POR 15, remember you only need to get of the scaling rust, you don't take it down to shiny metal.



You should get that done time wise..........

Drill out rivets to drop pans and only the bottom of the banana skins don't remove the molding to get to the top of the banana's rivets.

two hours at most.

Scrape and paint frame (in your case after welding repairs) 3-4 hours.

When you are looking at the plywood from the bottom the good wood is easier to see than the stained interior, after you do it you'll see what I mean.

Mine was like new ply where it was good and real dark weathered where bad.
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Old 11-11-2006, 05:57 PM   #20
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All Airstreams leak or will leak - whats the rest of the trailer like - if all it needs is a new floor - I still think you got a good deal -

If there is a lot of rot though, I would suggest an entire new floor - we can walk you through it - its not that difficult of a job, more time consuming than anything...

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Old 11-11-2006, 06:43 PM   #21
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new floor

I am doing a partail floor replacement on my 71 globetrotter. It hasn't been all that difficult. (I can't seem to get the link to work so do a search "skin corrosion" and check it out
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Old 11-11-2006, 11:33 PM   #22
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It's scary looking, but I agree, a good welder can fix that up. My welder hung around for a few hours and welded a bunch of broken seams, and it didn't cost very much (I don't remember exactly how much it was, which is why I know it wasn't a big amount compared to the rest of the project). I think $3500 still might have been a good deal for the trailer overall. Get a welder out, have him fix the welds or put in new metal where necessary, and keep at it. I wouldn't worry about the rest of the frame being like this, you know there was a lot of water damage up front, and that's what got your frame rails.

Unless you suspect more damage towards the back, I wouldn't go pulling it apart looking for it. If the floor looks good in the rest of the trailer, just concentrate on the front and worry about the rest later. Not every trailer needs a full shell-off restoration! It's very dissapointing to find damage like you are finding, but I don't think it's all that much work, just an extra step of getting a welder to fix it.
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Old 11-12-2006, 09:53 AM   #23
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I do know that the floor under my rear hatch is rotted out from not having a weather seal for years. Since I plan on replumbing with PEX I will cut the old plumbing out. I am concerned about trying to replace the bath floor. The tub and sink pieces dont look like they will fit through that pocket door, and I dont want to destroy them. On dropping the belly pan....can I transport this thing with the pans off? If I have to take it to a welder for the work I dont want to have to fool with getting the pans back up and off again once I am there.
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Old 11-12-2006, 11:01 AM   #24
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Sure you can move the trailer w/ bottom skins removed; it just wont be very pretty and make sure you travel on dry days. A definate no-no is dropping the lower skins and immediately go cruise on the interstate to use the wind to scour out a hundred square feet of fiberglass insulation bats. No matter how logical and smart a hands-off rats nest removal seems it would be a hard sell to a State Trooper or local Sherriff's Deputy, and just might get your picture in the local paper too with words like "biohazard" and "weapon of messy construction" in the by-line...
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Old 11-13-2006, 02:14 PM   #25
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Exclamation

Cant anyone tell me the exact size of drill bit needed for drilling out the underbelly rivets?
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Old 11-13-2006, 05:03 PM   #26
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3/16", be sure to drill all the way thru the steel frame, saves time later, I just cut the outer rivets on some and it was harder to get them completly out later.
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Old 11-13-2006, 05:15 PM   #27
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A good post showing replacing the floor without

be taking off the frame.....

http://www.airforums.com/forum...ion-12320.html
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Old 11-13-2006, 08:03 PM   #28
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I started removing the belly pany today and had to stop from breaking both my 1/8 bits. I am having trouble with my copper gas lines. They arent unscrewing so I can drop the pan completely. Many pieces of frame are just falling off on the uncovered parts. Also, many of the lower rivets were gone completely, and in their place there were hex headed bolts. The aluminum has some tears in it, and I wonder if these can be patched or if I should fabricate a new underbelly (Not that I have the money, time, or skills needed).

Hope to get some pics up later tomorrow once it is light again.

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