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Old 12-04-2005, 10:38 AM   #29
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1959 22' Caravanner
Atlanta , Georgia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
Nice photos... I was concerned about lifting the body that way because of the potential of bending the aluminum. I see that you placed the supports under the ribs though. If you hadn't, would it have bent the U-Channel and outside skins?

What I was thinking about doing is (with the interior skins off) placing a carpet-padded 4x4 post inside of the trailer laying long-ways with three eye-hooks, one under each vent opening (with vents removed) in the ceiling and then attaching ropes to the eye-hooks and hoisting the body up that way... That is, if I do this at our barn.
Actually if you look closely the support that go to the outside of the body don't touch the body. The piece screwed to the rib about 8 inches up is where the body is supported from. Then the short verticals are screwed to the long piece that is holding the weight. You don't want to put any weight on those lower edge of the body.

Also if you look there is a 2x4 screwed across the door frame to keep it from trying to bend at that point. It was very solid actually and it stood up to several good windy storms.

Really the body does not weight a lot. Two people can handle a 22ft by the ends. There are pictures of this from Airstream. I figure with the skins in and how my coach was in those pictures it was maybe 325-350lb.

A sheet of skin 4'x12' I seem to recall is 22lb. Takes 4.5 sheets to form the main body or a 22' coach then the end caps and interior skin. The problem is not the weight its just the size of it.

You idea will work as long as you are braced at the bottom to keep its shape and lifting from the ribs. There are some pictures here where a 29 or 31 was lifted that way with a front end loader.

Unfortunately that body was not secured to the ground and was picked up by a wind and rolled over a couple times. Never heard if it was ever put back together.
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Old 12-04-2005, 10:45 AM   #30
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1959 22' Caravanner
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Originally Posted by ankornuta
Well, my intention with this project is to restore the trailer back to completely original condition. I really feel that the only way to do that is to re-lay the tile the way it was done originally... and that means laying it down on the floor before the body is put on. If I wasn't concerned with that then I could probably just patch the small rot areas. There are only three spots that are bad, the largest being about six inches square.

Thanks for the help too! It's nice to hear from someone who's been there
I keep meaning to make comment on this. The tile on my coach was put in after the body was on.

The original tile was 9x9 on ours and usually 9x9 is Asbestos filled. When they did away with Asbestos is when they went to the now standard 12x12 so that people knew it was Asbestos free. Take precautions.

Its easy enough to cut down 12x12 into 9x9 but I would be sure to document is some way that this is asbestos free so when somebody in another 30 years is messing with it they know there is no asbestos in it.
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Old 12-05-2005, 10:08 PM   #31
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1953 25' Cruiser
1967 24' Tradewind
Sacramento , California
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Thanks Guys, but as always, a few more questions.

I took out the shower today and of course the floor was worse than I had dreamed. Oh well, at least I know I will get my moneys worth.

Sounds like the lifting it off will be ok without too much weight. Pretty sure my roof will hold the weight, if not, then the trailer won't be my top priority.

You say above that the inside panels have to come off to get to the "bottom plate". It also looks like the bottom pan is rivited to the outer skin all the way around the floor line. Is this the sad truth? If so, I guess I better read up on rivet removal and replacement.

My inside panels are all screwed in. Any tips on the fastest way to get them out?

Thanks, Bruce
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Old 12-05-2005, 10:55 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 59toaster
I keep meaning to make comment on this. The tile on my coach was put in after the body was on.

The original tile was 9x9 on ours and usually 9x9 is Asbestos filled. When they did away with Asbestos is when they went to the now standard 12x12 so that people knew it was Asbestos free. Take precautions.

Its easy enough to cut down 12x12 into 9x9 but I would be sure to document is some way that this is asbestos free so when somebody in another 30 years is messing with it they know there is no asbestos in it.
Ahhh hah! That's why it's so hard to find 9x9" tile. Now I know this sounds crazy, but the old asbestos tile isn't THAT dangerous, is it? I was really hoping to find an old stash of it somewhere to lay down. It just seems literally impossible to match this pattern in the "Straight Grain Excelon" Armstrong tile that was originally put in my trailer.
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Old 12-06-2005, 01:34 AM   #33
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Originally Posted by TooMuchTin
Thanks Guys, but as always, a few more questions.

I took out the shower today and of course the floor was worse than I had dreamed. Oh well, at least I know I will get my moneys worth.

Sounds like the lifting it off will be ok without too much weight. Pretty sure my roof will hold the weight, if not, then the trailer won't be my top priority.

You say above that the inside panels have to come off to get to the "bottom plate". It also looks like the bottom pan is rivited to the outer skin all the way around the floor line. Is this the sad truth? If so, I guess I better read up on rivet removal and replacement.

My inside panels are all screwed in. Any tips on the fastest way to get them out?

Thanks, Bruce
Bruce,

I am a bit suprised that your inner skins are attached with screws. They were originally installed with pop-rivets. Did someone remove and reinstall the inner panels or did you maybe not look close enough? If they are pop-rivets you would just drill them out with an 1/8" drill bit. This is actually pretty quick and easy except for the ocasional rivit that just spins in place instead of drilling out. For these I used a sharp thick bladed putty knife to cut the head off. There are plenty of things said here in the forums about rivet removal so do a bit of searching or ask more questions if you are stumped. If they are in fact held in with screws then I suggest an electric screw driver.

Someone else will need to comment on whether or not you have to undo all the rivets holding the body to the bottom channel. My 1973 unit is different than yours. What you really need to do I think is to detach the banana wrap and belly pan from the channel. These are the parts that are below the channel. The gotcha is that they may be attached to the bottom channel underneath the upper part of the body. Worse than that I think that some of these parts in older models are bent over the top of the channel. If you take off the inner panel along the bottom you can better asses how this connection is made.

I hope this all helps some at least.

Malcolm
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Old 12-06-2005, 11:43 PM   #34
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Malcolm,

This is a most curious, and distrubing delima. Yes, every single fastener inside the unit are screws. I thought that maybe that is how they did it back then, or at least on this model.

I thought it looked pretty original. The idea that someone would remove ALL the rivets just to put in screws is too crazy.

Anyone out there who can shed some light?
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Old 12-06-2005, 11:54 PM   #35
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1954 29' Liner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TooMuchTin
Malcolm,

This is a most curious, and distrubing delima. Yes, every single fastener inside the unit are screws. I thought that maybe that is how they did it back then, or at least on this model.

I thought it looked pretty original. The idea that someone would remove ALL the rivets just to put in screws is too crazy.

Anyone out there who can shed some light?
TooMuchTin,

Interesting, on my 1954 Liner the front and rear caps are fastened to the channel by screws, but the interior skin is fastened with pop rivets. Here is a picture of the lower screws:

Bill
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Old 12-07-2005, 12:28 AM   #36
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thats it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
Nice photos... I was concerned about lifting the body that way because of the potential of bending the aluminum. I see that you placed the supports under the ribs though. If you hadn't, would it have bent the U-Channel and outside skins?



What I was thinking about doing is (with the interior skins off) placing a carpet-padded 4x4 post inside of the trailer laying long-ways with three eye-hooks, one under each vent opening (with vents removed) in the cieling and then attaching ropes to the eye-hooks and hoisting the body up that way... That is, if I do this at our barn.
I lifted mine similar, i used two 4x4's side ways cut to match the curve and lifted her up nice and slow, pulled the chassis out, then set her down on the ground, placing the u channels on 4x4s. i wouldnt leave her hanging up there
good luck.
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